When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I also have the same car as you. Mine came with a AGM battery and within a week of ownership I asked which tender to get and initially ordered the Porsche tender but everyone told it it was overpriced and hooking it up through the cigarette lighter was a pain to get it to work right. In any case they recommended the SC-10 and I got it. It works well and it has a big digital display telling you exactly how much voltage its pulling and what stage of charge your car is at. Also uses standard SAE connectors and not something proprietary so very cheap to extend the length
Sorry for late reply, I will gladly answer with no bias.
While CTEK, NOCO and Optimate are fine chargers, they have sat on the same designs and very limited functionality for the last 7-10 years without any modern updates. Antigravity wanted to create a Charger that incorporated what our shop needed from a Charger for usefulness on our benches, and in the Cars/Trucks we are testing on, because we are constantly discharging and recharging batteries during our testing of all types of batteries because we manufacture batteries. So we set out to make a better, more useful and functional charger because it was obvious that the Chargers we were using were lacking features we NEEDED and wanted. As a side note we also offer a free 60 day money back guarentee, claimiing that you will think its the best charger you have used.
Here's some examples of what we incorporated and why...
- So the CTEKS are a great option, but basically only Charge one type of Battery, if you want to Charge Lead/Acid you get the lead/acid version, if you want to charge Lithium you have to get their seperate Liithium Version. So Antigravity wanted our new Super Chargers to be able to charge Lead Acid formats AND Lithium formats with the ONE CHARGER... it needed to do-it-all and be the one charger someone needed in their Garage. So our Super charger will charge and maintain all 12v Lead/Acid formats AND 6v and 12v LFP Lithium formats. So the Super Charger will charge any vehicle's starter battery in your Garage Car/Truck, Motorcycle, Boat, Tractor.. Lead or Lithium... No extra chargers needed lying around cluttering things like we had on our test benches.
- We put a nice size Digital Display on our Charger that allows you to see the real-time Voltage and Current going into your battery, so you can tell what the actual status of charging is with just a glance. We couldn't stand those LED idiot lights they continue to use on NOCO ,CTEK and Optimate, and sometimes they get stuck on a flashing light and you don't know what it means, or they stop charging but you really can't tell why or what for. With the Antigravity Super Chargers you know if the charger is not charging due to its live Voltage and Current readings, it will also tell you if there is a fault or incorrect polarity on the screen, not just show a red light. Also, it's very easy to ensure you select the correct battery type or mode you want since that is also displayed..
- We built a first of its kind function in our Charger..... A Voltage Tester is built into the Charger itself so you don't have to pull out a Multimeter to check your Batteries Voltage, you just select the Charger Voltage Test mode and it shows you live voltage. This way you can analyze if you need a charge, of if your battery is actually dead or fully charged without needing a multi-meter. Some may never use it, but its there and I find we do use it alot.
- We included a dedicated BMS RE-SET feature that actually works for Lithium Batteries. The CTEK Lithium RE-SET does not work well if at all to awaken a BMS that has gone to sleep. This means you can wake up your Porsche Lithium Battery if it goes into protection mode.... none of the other chargers can do this well.
- We put a Power Supply into the 10-Amp version and 4-Amp Versions of our Super-Chargers.... this is also done by some other brands, and we think it a good idea to put it in... this allows for powering 12v DC devices, or keeping power on during a battery swap , it can be used with Tire inflators and other 12v devices also.
We went with SAE standardized connectors (like Battery Tender) so you can easily find any extra attachments or harnesses of different lengths. CTEK and NOCO use their proprietary connectors which has a limited supply of lengths but cost more than the standard SAE type of connector and forces you to stay buying their stuff. We don't like proprietary stuff like that because it doesn't allow for other options and costs more. We also have available the MagCode Adapters, 4-Pin Adapters that Ferraris and other brands use. Including some longer length Pigtails, or Cig Lighter Chargers types if needed.
If you notice, we always suggest our 10-Amp version for modern cars because of the higher levels of Parasitic Drain in some cars but additionally because they offer much faster charging and overhead compared to the typical 4-5 amp chargers and CTEK simply hasn't made a competitively priced 10-Amp Charger.
So hopefully that will not come across at biased, its just facts and we wanted to "up" the game in Chargers.
Mines installed the same as Doug above, however, I've pushed the connector to the top of the hood. I've had it on highways, twisties, and AutoX a whole bunch, and the connector doesn't move, nor cause any noise.
Doing this allows me to connect the tender without lifting the hood, and in case the battery ever dies, I don't need to worry about applying aux power to open the hood etc.
This is the way to do it. The nice thing about the SAE connector is its much smaller than the one that comes from CTEK. I have mine tucked in right by the passenger A pillar. It never moves during driving and doesnt make any sounds. Its not even visible. Very simple to connect the car after a drive without ever opening the frunk.
I started with a Battery Tender that I bought from Costco. I used the pigtail that came with the Battery Tender to connect to the battery and ground. Then I used the 12.5 ft extension to connect to the Battery Tender unit. I eventually upgraded to the SC-10. Since Antigravity uses SAE connectors, there was no need for me to change the pigtail connected to the car. Works great. The Battery Tender now is used for my wifes motorcycle.
Leaving the connector exposed never felt right to me. I asked Chat what it thought
Good question and its an important one if youre installing a CTEK or similar comfort connect lead on a car you plan to leave outdoors or in a damp environment.
Heres how it works and what you should do 👇
🔌 The little rubber cap what its for
CTEKs ring-terminal connectors (and similar SAE pigtails) usually come with a soft rubber cap that snaps over the end of the plug when its not connected to a charger. That caps purpose is two-fold:
Weather protection: It helps shield the metal contacts from rain, snow, moisture, and dust, which could otherwise cause corrosion or oxidation over time.
Short-circuit safety: It prevents the exposed contacts from accidentally touching metal parts (like a chassis ground) and shorting out especially if the connector gets bumped around.
☔️ Exposure to the elements whats acceptable
✅ Occasional exposure: If the cap is on securely, the connector is generally fine being in a damp garage, light rain, or brief outdoor exposure.
⚠️ Frequent rain / outdoor parking: The caps are splash-resistant, not waterproof. If the lead will hang out of a grille, under a bumper, or near the underbody where water and salt spray hit it regularly, its best to tuck it somewhere protected e.g., behind a tow hook cover, under a hood edge, or inside a bumper slot.
❌ Submersion or constant soaking: Do not let it sit where water pools or under direct spray (like in a wheel well) over time that can defeat the caps seal and cause corrosion inside the connector.
🔧 Best practices
Cap it anytime its not in use. Thats the #1 thing to extend its life.
Mount it facing downward if possible. That way, water drips off rather than collecting inside.
If it will live outside year-round, consider a weatherproof SAE plug cover or small rubber boot (CTEK sells upgraded ones too).
Give the contacts a tiny dab of dielectric grease once or twice a year if youre in a salty or wet climate its cheap insurance against corrosion.
✅ Bottom line: Theyre designed to handle some weather when capped, but theyre not meant to sit directly in the rain 24/7. If possible, tuck the connector somewhere protected and always keep that cap snapped on tight.
This is the way to do it. The nice thing about the SAE connector is its much smaller than the one that comes from CTEK. I have mine tucked in right by the passenger A pillar. It never moves during driving and doesnt make any sounds. Its not even visible. Very simple to connect the car after a drive without ever opening the frunk.
I started with a Battery Tender that I bought from Costco. I used the pigtail that came with the Battery Tender to connect to the battery and ground. Then I used the 12.5 ft extension to connect to the Battery Tender unit. I eventually upgraded to the SC-10. Since Antigravity uses SAE connectors, there was no need for me to change the pigtail connected to the car. Works great. The Battery Tender now is used for my wifes motorcycle.
+1. Here is another option if you have SAE connecters for $9:
I attached an Ancel 300 Pro to my battery and it gives a real-time status of your battery via bluetooth. and I also installed the android version of the app to my CHSTEK head unit.
I had to splice every single eyelet wire I've had because the length from the battery to the windshield was simply not long enough, and I got tired of opening and closing the hood every time I wanted to connect it to the tender. yes the SAE extender cables are cheap, but not the NOCO or CTEK extension cables, those ones I spliced additional wire myself.
Originally Posted by DaveGee
But that doesn’t solve the issue of getting enough of the cable that’s attached to the battery outside the cowl to plug into the SAE extension cable. Im going through this right now. As mentioned a couple of posts earlier, the eyelet cable attached to the battery is just barely long enough to get outside the battery compartment. I’ll be splicing an extension on to mine today.
DaveGee
I think some people are missing the point here but I 100% agree with you: the actual cable (the one with the eyelet that hardwires to the battery) is simply not long enough to snake through most engine bays and have it come out to the windshield area to allow for easy connect/disconnect without ever having to open the hood again. that's the most easiest way to charge your battery but I've now tried 3 different battery tender brands (NOCO, CTEK, SuperCharger) and all 3 arent long enough. They are all about 12 inches and I'm not sure why they don't just make it 18-24" inches which is ultimately what I had to extend mine to. I know you can get a CTEK/NOCO branded extension cord just for this purpose, but 1. they are expensive for being just a bit of wire and 2. they made the extension TOO LONG and then I would have to figure out how to snake the extra wire through the engine bay area, making sure its not going to come into contact with other, very hot components. All I really needed was like 6-8 inches of extension and the easiest way to do that was to splice in extra wire because inexplicably, the manufacturers wouldnt provide it out of the box, or sell you one that's longer than one that comes in the box.
Last edited by thereef510; Dec 8, 2025 at 01:05 PM.
I had to splice every single eyelet wire I've had because the length from the battery to the windshield was simply not long enough, and I got tired of opening and closing the hood every time I wanted to connect it to the tender. yes the SAE extender cables are cheap, but not the NOCO or CTEK extension cables, those ones I spliced additional wire myself.
I think some people are missing the point here but I 100% agree with you: the actual cable (the one with the eyelet that hardwires to the battery) is simply not long enough to snake through most engine bays and have it come out to the windshield area to allow for easy connect/disconnect without ever having to open the hood again. that's the most easiest way to charge your battery but I've now tried 3 different battery tender brands (NOCO, CTEK, SuperCharger) and all 3 arent long enough. They are all about 12 inches and I'm not sure why they don't just make it 18-24" inches which is ultimately what I had to extend mine to. I know you can get a CTEK/NOCO branded extension cord just for this purpose, but 1. they are expensive for being just a bit of wire and 2. they made the extension TOO LONG and then I would have to figure out how to snake the extra wire through the engine bay area, making sure its not going to come into contact with other, very hot components. All I really needed was like 6-8 inches of extension and the easiest way to do that was to splice in extra wire because inexplicably, the manufacturers wouldnt provide it out of the box, or sell you one that's longer than one that comes in the box.
FWIW, in post #27 above, I have a NOCO cable sticking out a little.
This is what I bought. I agree, its expensive for what it is. I have a SC-10 too, but have been lazy to switch to the SAE connector for it.
Still seems strange to me. I had an Audi TTRS and 3 BMW's before getting my first 911 Carrera S this year. I put the Audi and one of the BMW's to sleep every winter in New England and never used a battery tender. I also never had to replace the battery in either one. (Both were 6 years old). Does the 911 really have that much more parasitic battery drain?
Still seems strange to me. I had an Audi TTRS and 3 BMW's before getting my first 911 Carrera S this year. I put the Audi and one of the BMW's to sleep every winter in New England and never used a battery tender. I also never had to replace the battery in either one. (Both were 6 years old). Does the 911 really have that much more parasitic battery drain?
# of computers and processors (drain) in motor vehicles has grown exponentially in past 6 years. Alarm system adds to it.
Last edited by Fullyield; Dec 10, 2025 at 07:54 AM.
Still seems strange to me. I had an Audi TTRS and 3 BMW's before getting my first 911 Carrera S this year. I put the Audi and one of the BMW's to sleep every winter in New England and never used a battery tender. I also never had to replace the battery in either one. (Both were 6 years old). Does the 911 really have that much more parasitic battery drain?
I believe you have been exceptionally lucky.
I have owned BMWs for 32+ years. The latest ones with iDrive 8, 8.5 or 9 do not like to sit for two weeks without use. Significant parasitic drain on the starter battery New BMWs apparently have two batteries now, unbeknownst to me.
Porsche 911 GT3 Artisan Edition Pays Homage to Japanese Culture
Slideshow: Porsche has created a Japan-only 911 GT3 Artisan Edition that blends track-ready hardware with design cues inspired by traditional Japanese craftsmanship.
Porsche Reveals Coupe Variant of the Electric Cayenne With a Fresh Look
Slideshow: Porsche's latest electric Cayenne Coupe blends dramatic styling with supercar acceleration, turning the brand's midsize SUV into a 1,139-horsepower flagship.
