M-Tuner v M-Coder
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M-Tuner v M-Coder
I am considering either the M-Tuner or M-Coder suite from M-Engineering. I know that purchasing the M-Coder allows you to pay the difference down the line and upgrade to the full Tune suite. Personally I am not resistant to Tuning but am not sure I want to mess with that part of the car right now.
However, I do like the idea of M-Coder allowing me to open the valves and turn off the cold start. I don't have any desire to remove the rev limiter in neutral or the auto start stop in Normal as I don't ever drive in Normal and I like the PSE pops and burbles, so I wouldn't want to change any of that.
Just thought I'd get some feedback from those who had gotten one or the other and why they chose the full suite or the tune-less coder version.
However, I do like the idea of M-Coder allowing me to open the valves and turn off the cold start. I don't have any desire to remove the rev limiter in neutral or the auto start stop in Normal as I don't ever drive in Normal and I like the PSE pops and burbles, so I wouldn't want to change any of that.
Just thought I'd get some feedback from those who had gotten one or the other and why they chose the full suite or the tune-less coder version.
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I went with the M-Coder, since the car was new (GTS) and I think the power is plenty for the road and track/AutoX, at least for my skill level and I'd rather spend the difference on the issue between seat and the steering wheel.
Things I wanted the M-Coder for:
• Open exhaust valves. On the stock PSE, I had the exhaust open about 50% till 2500 RPM and then 100% by 3500 RPM. This worked great on the stock exhaust, but on the APR catback, there was a slight valve rattle when valves were 50% open, so I just went with a 100% open valve set up in Sport & Sport+
• Eliminate cold start: I didn't want to annoy my neighbours and family as my other car (X3 'M40i) and previous GT4 with OAPs had cold start and for the first minutes, I can feel things vibrate/rattle in the kitchen directly above the garage. With an aftermarket exhaust, this would've been much louder.
• Turn off Auto/Start stop - I have individual mode configured to my liking, however, I switch to normal when entering and exiting my housing community and also the change to sport/sport+ hadn't quite become muscle memory at the time of tuning (2 weeks and 1000 miles in).
• Free rev'ing in neutral - Because I'm a child still and tunnels or underpasses (while parked) and empty parking lots are fun.
• I did leave the rev limiter to stock, because I didn't want to change any of that, in case something goes bust and the engine was operating outside of normal/factory parameters.
The customer service when requesting changes/seeking clarification was absolutely fantastic and on point, so there's that with either option.
Things I wanted the M-Coder for:
• Open exhaust valves. On the stock PSE, I had the exhaust open about 50% till 2500 RPM and then 100% by 3500 RPM. This worked great on the stock exhaust, but on the APR catback, there was a slight valve rattle when valves were 50% open, so I just went with a 100% open valve set up in Sport & Sport+
• Eliminate cold start: I didn't want to annoy my neighbours and family as my other car (X3 'M40i) and previous GT4 with OAPs had cold start and for the first minutes, I can feel things vibrate/rattle in the kitchen directly above the garage. With an aftermarket exhaust, this would've been much louder.
• Turn off Auto/Start stop - I have individual mode configured to my liking, however, I switch to normal when entering and exiting my housing community and also the change to sport/sport+ hadn't quite become muscle memory at the time of tuning (2 weeks and 1000 miles in).
• Free rev'ing in neutral - Because I'm a child still and tunnels or underpasses (while parked) and empty parking lots are fun.
• I did leave the rev limiter to stock, because I didn't want to change any of that, in case something goes bust and the engine was operating outside of normal/factory parameters.
The customer service when requesting changes/seeking clarification was absolutely fantastic and on point, so there's that with either option.
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I evaluated the same options as you and went a different route. Depending on how married you are to turning off the cold start, you might consider a valve controller. If it is not enough, you decide to tune later, or you don’t like it, you can easily sell the controller to someone else and buy the M-coder. I found the install a bit of a pain (I’m all thumbs and don’t have a lift) but I like the ability to toggle between OEM and valves open using the remote. There is a thread on this topic if you are interested https://rennlist.com/forums/992/1433...ispreloading=1
If you have to have the cold start elimination, I would go with the coder. I think the option to add the full tune later for the additional cost is a nice touch. I may tune later but after having the car for 4K miles, I’m finding the car has all the power I need, for now. I’m on public roads and a little too afraid of engaging with the law even if the road is empty.
If you have to have the cold start elimination, I would go with the coder. I think the option to add the full tune later for the additional cost is a nice touch. I may tune later but after having the car for 4K miles, I’m finding the car has all the power I need, for now. I’m on public roads and a little too afraid of engaging with the law even if the road is empty.
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I evaluated the same options as you and went a different route. Depending on how married you are to turning off the cold start, you might consider a valve controller. If it is not enough, you decide to tune later, or you don’t like it, you can easily sell the controller to someone else and buy the M-coder. I found the install a bit of a pain (I’m all thumbs and don’t have a lift) but I like the ability to toggle between OEM and valves open using the remote. There is a thread on this topic if you are interested https://rennlist.com/forums/992/1433...ispreloading=1
If you have to have the cold start elimination, I would go with the coder. I think the option to add the full tune later for the additional cost is a nice touch. I may tune later but after having the car for 4K miles, I’m finding the car has all the power I need, for now. I’m on public roads and a little too afraid of engaging with the law even if the road is empty.
If you have to have the cold start elimination, I would go with the coder. I think the option to add the full tune later for the additional cost is a nice touch. I may tune later but after having the car for 4K miles, I’m finding the car has all the power I need, for now. I’m on public roads and a little too afraid of engaging with the law even if the road is empty.
Just in Sport/Sport+ to my knowledge, which is honestly the best thing, as it does allow you the option to use the Normal -> Sport/Sport+ as the toggle button for getting out of garages, neighborhoods, before amplifying the sound.
Last edited by 3rdpedal; Nov 19, 2024 at 06:36 PM.
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I didn’t have any major issues with Cargraphic in the 14k miles I used it, other than the button sometimes not working (maybe interference?). But the PSE button with M-Tuner has been flawless. I love it. I’ve had that for over 20k miles. And cold start delete was a must for me when I added sport cats.
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I went with the M-CODER a few months back. I have the valves open 100% at SPORT and SPORT+, and no more Cold Start. Loving it of course. I'm now looking at a SOUL Valved Exhaust to compliment the Vales Opened at 100%, and also upgrading (pay the difference from M-CODER to M-TUNER).
I'm hoping they have a Black Friday for us 7MT with M-CODER to upgrade to M-TUNER Stage 1. I know they have a special for those who have PDK, but doesn't that help me with a 7MT.
I'm hoping they have a Black Friday for us 7MT with M-CODER to upgrade to M-TUNER Stage 1. I know they have a special for those who have PDK, but doesn't that help me with a 7MT.
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From: San Francisco Bay Area (East Bay)
M-CODER (what some call STAGE 0), is fully reversible without the dealer knowing... As long as you revert back to the stock software (supplied by M-Engineering) before all service you are good!
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Is it correct that you can have M-Engineering provide custom exhaust valve opening maps? I am considering getting the M-Coder if I can do the following;
I find the Stock PSE setting non-aggressive, and a little more mid RPM range sound would be fine for daily driving.
Thanks in advance for your feedback.
- PSE Button OFF = Exhaust Valves open 25% (Stock PSE ON amount @ idle) all the time with stock Burbles
- PSE Button ON = Exhaust Valves open 100% all the time with stock Burbles.
- Auto Stop/Start set to OFF
- Loud Start set to NO
I find the Stock PSE setting non-aggressive, and a little more mid RPM range sound would be fine for daily driving.
Thanks in advance for your feedback.
Rennlist Member
Joined: Aug 2023
Posts: 1,579
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From: San Francisco Bay Area (East Bay)
Is it correct that you can have M-Engineering provide custom exhaust valve opening maps? I am considering getting the M-Coder if I can do the following;
I find the Stock PSE setting non-aggressive, and a little more mid RPM range sound would be fine for daily driving.
Thanks in advance for your feedback.
- PSE Button OFF = Exhaust Valves open 25% (Stock PSE ON amount @ idle) all the time with stock Burbles
- PSE Button ON = Exhaust Valves open 100% all the time with stock Burbles.
- Auto Stop/Start set to OFF
- Loud Start set to NO
I find the Stock PSE setting non-aggressive, and a little more mid RPM range sound would be fine for daily driving.
Thanks in advance for your feedback.
Open up the valves to 100% in SPORT and SPORT+ mode all of the time. In NORMAL mode it is completely stock. In SPORT mode, if I manually his the PSE button, then it closes the valves just like stock, and pressing again opens it up fully.
As for the partial open of the valves in regular mode, I'll let them provide that answer.
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Around 1500 miles on the odo, I put on an APR exhaust. The Valve had very slight pay, so at partial valve opening, there was a metallic rattle upto 2500 rpm and wasn't as pleasing to the ear.
Instead of doing a proper fix to the valve on the partial opening, I just went to all open or closed.
Ive had it for for just over 3k miles this way and haven't had any issues so far.