According to my manual (992 Turbo S built in May of 2023), it seems like you don't need to loosen and retighten except in certain circumstances:

 

I really think you’re confused about what the tool does. It’s just a gear. You still need something else to measure the applied torque.

 

Thanks.

If I am interpreting this correctly, Porsche wants you to tighten twice if anything on the mating surface is brand new, or new to the car. The wording still leaves some open questions. For example, if I rotate the wheels left to right, do I tighten twice?

 

From my 2023 manual on the My Porsche app:

 

My manual for a 2023 Targa 4 GTS states this as well

 

And what are you using to measure the torque actually applied to the centerlockl? The setting on your torque wrench is pretty much meaningless after the torque multiplier unless the torque multiplier has been tested and calibrated properly at the factory.

Do you trust that the Amazon seller selling goods from China actually tested the torque multiplier they are selling you?

 

My manual says that, but it's under the text that says that it is only needed if

 

The torque multiplier is a purely mechanical device that multiplies the torque by the same value as the rotations are de-multiplied. So simply set the torque wrench at the target torque setting divided by the torque multiplier ratio.

If you want to be absolutely sure about the torque applied at the center lock nut, you can always get a torque reading adapter such as this one, which can be calibrated at any specialty shop that calibrates torque gauges if in doubt about the calibration.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009GLITFW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?asc_source=01H78MEHGTAFBNKY0H8BMSDEGX &ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=namespaceca201-20

 

The CL III are super easy to handle being a single piece assembly with “infinite” locking angle. There’s no fiddling or messing around.

The manual indeed states that no re-torque is necessary if all the wheel-hub interface components are the same. I still do it every time since it takes me no more than 5 seconds per wheel to un-torque and re-torque.

 

As pointed out by @CanAutM3 (and as discussed by several of us elsewhere in prior threads; and also even mentioned earlier in this thread by @pal ) you can measure at the output of the multiplier so you don’t have to account for losses. Otherwise, you’d have to measure the losses to use something on the input. But in no case do you calibrate the multiplier. I don’t really know what your issue is, but I don’t care to deal with it anymore.

 

+1 on the Precision instruments wrench. Bought on zoro tools with a 15% off coupon. Put it in your shopping cart and leave it for a day or so and they will send you a coupon.

Centering tool is nice too!

 

First of all I must thank all you guys for the great content on RL, info here are a real value and I hope I'll be able to give back some useful contributions.

I took delivery of a brand new C2GTS yesterday, build date is December 2023, and today we swapped the tires with winter ones. Here's what I found out.

I bought a Precision Instruments wrench and breaker bar combo before the car arrived and today the usage was flawless and comfortable. Only gripe is that the pin for releasing the torque sensing bar from the wrench is small and impossible to press with a finger, while all the other buttons are big enough. However I do understand that the small section of the torque bar only allows for it.

I do confirm per the instruction manual that there's no need to re-torque the centerlock (CL III version) unless a piece of the assembly or the wheel or rotor have been changed.

The manual also specifies that during torqueing, "maximum tolerance from nominal value is 15%". Said nominal value is 600Nm or 443 lb.ft. The torque for unscrewing the nut can be much higher that 600Nm.

Another info I found in the manual is that "the reaction arm of a battery powered torqueing tool can damage the wheels. Do not use battery powered torqueing tools.". A message to Hytorc users?

Lastly, all the images on the manual show the wrench being pressed towards the floor and nowhere is advised to do the opposite, as I read in some thread.

Hope this helps!

 

Untorquing will always require greater force because static friction is greater than dynamic friction.

This is also why torquing value needs to be achieved while in motion.

 

I was torn and ended up with CL wheels because they look better and are forged for the 992 GTS. But, I don't track and would potentially only take the wheels off once every couple of years if that.

 

Dont like centerL at all....

Have used all tools to remove/install, for now the best option for me is REnn tool....

Why:
1. Wife can help with brake ...
2. DIY @Home

Quote:
Originally Posted by onedae
I want to get the tools needed for removing and installing centerlocks on a 2024 992 Carrera GTS. For those of you who are experienced at doing this, I'd appreciate your recommendations for the correct reliable tools. There are so many choices.
Thanks
You basically have 3 options:

1. A long breaker bar and torque wrench that goes up to 550 or 600 ft lbs - $400 - 500

2. Renntorq tool which is a torque multiplier and allows you to use standard breaker bar and torque wrench which are much easier to handle and less risk of damaging the cat around $2500 plus the cost of standard breaker bar and torque wrench if you don't have one

3. Hytorq tool - completely electronic around $5000
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