Reviving the seemingly dead 992
04-17-2022, 08:21 AM
#46
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In the end I connected my booster cables off my Range Rover (ironic) and as soon as I touched the 992; the car came to life…started immediately. It does now give me a fault message that the Sales Manager at the dealer when I called on Saturday says may clear or to bring it around during the week and they will have to clear it. I must admit, not particularly crazy about this process if it becomes an annual ritual.
04-17-2022, 08:26 AM
#47
Rennlist Member
Yes I have the GB50.
I wasn’t able to get the frunk open, let alone the battery.
I suspect it’s because I wasn’t getting a good enough ground near the door hinge but yet the Porsche tech had no issues with his onboard booster pack.
The leads from the gb50 are also awfully short.
M
I wasn’t able to get the frunk open, let alone the battery.
I suspect it’s because I wasn’t getting a good enough ground near the door hinge but yet the Porsche tech had no issues with his onboard booster pack.
The leads from the gb50 are also awfully short.
M
05-07-2023, 06:47 AM
#48
Would a noco genius 5 with force charge feature be sufficient to wake up a "sleeping" lithium battery. My battery went to sleep mode. Charge o mat would not detect, but genius 5 did and started charging, but still could not even unlock doors . Wondering if I left on longer if it would have worked
03-19-2024, 04:00 AM
#49
I don't own a 992 but thought I'd share a recent experience reviving a friends car that appeared completely non responsive. That means nothing from the remote fob, no dash lights, no frunk latch access, nothing. I'm posting this because - assuming the car is locked - you won't have access to the owners' manual that explains any of what follows - like how to get into the car to get the owners' manual. The first step of using the emergency access key inside the remote fob to open the door was pretty straight forward. There's not much room to insert the key under the driver's side handle so you have to fully extend the handle to get the key inserted. You can unlock and get the door open but if you close it - remember the retracting window won't function so you'll bang the window against the weather stripping. Since the frunk release is electronic you'll need to get power to the car to get anything to open. Following the owner's manual - you pull a cover panel above the driver's side foot rest to reveal a fuse panel that has a red jumper plug that extends out of the panel when you pull it gently. It will subtly click when fully extended. Using this plug you can attache a jumper box or battery to provide enough power to open the frunk. The plug accepts the positive side of the jumping source - you can use the door hing for the ground. When properly connected - the tail lights blinked. This set up will NOT provide enough power to start the car ONLY open the frunk. Here's the odd part - on this car the frunk would not open when jumped using the switch on the door threshold. We ended up having to use the key fob button for the frunk. This might be the method for all cars - I don't recall what the manual says. Also - on some jumper boxes (digital) the box may give a message that the battery is protected. If so - disconnect the jumper box and reconnect it.
Even at this point the car still appeared to be completely dead - except for the blinking tail lights. However, when the jumper box was attached to the battery the car came alive and was able to start - even without the jumper box. SOOOO - what happened. I'm not sure but I think the battery tender that was on the car caused the lithium ion smart battery to go into protection mode - essentially shutting down the car. Once awakened - the battery actually had a full charge. In all of this - the only part that wasn't clear was the need to use the key fob to open the frunk instead of the frunk switch on the door threshold. I don't know if that was because the fob was too far from the car when we tried the threshold switch or if I missed something in the manual that said use the fob button NOT the switch. Maybe no one else will ever need this but we were about to have Porsche service come and pick up the car. The reason I persisted is because - without power to the car - you also can't get it into neutral to roll it onto a flatbed.
I also suspect that I'd be pretty frustrated if my new 992 went into full sleep mode with what should be a fully charged battery. It also appears these cars need a battery tender that is switchable to Lithium Ion mode. Really neat cars with LOTS of tech to understand. . . . and maybe a bit of "mind of its own".
Even at this point the car still appeared to be completely dead - except for the blinking tail lights. However, when the jumper box was attached to the battery the car came alive and was able to start - even without the jumper box. SOOOO - what happened. I'm not sure but I think the battery tender that was on the car caused the lithium ion smart battery to go into protection mode - essentially shutting down the car. Once awakened - the battery actually had a full charge. In all of this - the only part that wasn't clear was the need to use the key fob to open the frunk instead of the frunk switch on the door threshold. I don't know if that was because the fob was too far from the car when we tried the threshold switch or if I missed something in the manual that said use the fob button NOT the switch. Maybe no one else will ever need this but we were about to have Porsche service come and pick up the car. The reason I persisted is because - without power to the car - you also can't get it into neutral to roll it onto a flatbed.
I also suspect that I'd be pretty frustrated if my new 992 went into full sleep mode with what should be a fully charged battery. It also appears these cars need a battery tender that is switchable to Lithium Ion mode. Really neat cars with LOTS of tech to understand. . . . and maybe a bit of "mind of its own".
Last edited by JoachimK; 03-19-2024 at 04:02 AM.
03-19-2024, 11:54 AM
#50
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Incredible the idiocy of over engineering a car.
The simple things that were proven over centuries have been discarded for aesthetic nonsense see "the shaver", or making sure FAL lowers when the engine switches off, a HomeLink button that was eliminated and now this when we used to be able to open the trunk or frunk of a vehicle sans dealing with this idiocy.
To ensure lowering the FAL on engine shut-off, I have a piece of paper printed in large print stating L O W E R F A L prominently displayed when I drive in to the garage (great art work and works well with the remote to my garage door that I clip to my sun visor); 20th century answers to idiotic 21st century Porsche "solutions"
For the frunk I ALWAYS leave the funk open (whether partially or fully when using a CTEK) to ensure this never happens. I realize if you're in a condo and don't have a private bay this would not work, so we should all send our compliments to the Design Bureau for yet another "first", I'm also adding the removal of the AM radio band (in my list to join the Fickle Finger Fate Award for dumbest solutions to a non-existing problem) as the best weight savings and most annoying I've experienced in a while (for those of us who live remote or don't have access to coverage once we leave our immediate area) and the non adjustable seat belt height which cuts into your jugular with incredible precision - obviously great care was taken by some Uber Engineer to save an ounce or so by doing away with the sliding adjustment and the list goes on.
siberian
The simple things that were proven over centuries have been discarded for aesthetic nonsense see "the shaver", or making sure FAL lowers when the engine switches off, a HomeLink button that was eliminated and now this when we used to be able to open the trunk or frunk of a vehicle sans dealing with this idiocy.
To ensure lowering the FAL on engine shut-off, I have a piece of paper printed in large print stating L O W E R F A L prominently displayed when I drive in to the garage (great art work and works well with the remote to my garage door that I clip to my sun visor); 20th century answers to idiotic 21st century Porsche "solutions"
For the frunk I ALWAYS leave the funk open (whether partially or fully when using a CTEK) to ensure this never happens. I realize if you're in a condo and don't have a private bay this would not work, so we should all send our compliments to the Design Bureau for yet another "first", I'm also adding the removal of the AM radio band (in my list to join the Fickle Finger Fate Award for dumbest solutions to a non-existing problem) as the best weight savings and most annoying I've experienced in a while (for those of us who live remote or don't have access to coverage once we leave our immediate area) and the non adjustable seat belt height which cuts into your jugular with incredible precision - obviously great care was taken by some Uber Engineer to save an ounce or so by doing away with the sliding adjustment and the list goes on.
siberian
Last edited by siberian; 03-19-2024 at 11:58 AM.
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Jeff Whitten (03-19-2024)
03-19-2024, 12:18 PM
#51
Racer
Incredible the idiocy of over engineering a car.
The simple things that were proven over centuries have been discarded for aesthetic nonsense see "the shaver", or making sure FAL lowers when the engine switches off, a HomeLink button that was eliminated and now this when we used to be able to open the trunk or frunk of a vehicle sans dealing with this idiocy.
To ensure lowering the FAL on engine shut-off, I have a piece of paper printed in large print stating L O W E R F A L prominently displayed when I drive in to the garage (great art work and works well with the remote to my garage door that I clip to my sun visor); 20th century answers to idiotic 21st century Porsche "solutions"
n
The simple things that were proven over centuries have been discarded for aesthetic nonsense see "the shaver", or making sure FAL lowers when the engine switches off, a HomeLink button that was eliminated and now this when we used to be able to open the trunk or frunk of a vehicle sans dealing with this idiocy.
To ensure lowering the FAL on engine shut-off, I have a piece of paper printed in large print stating L O W E R F A L prominently displayed when I drive in to the garage (great art work and works well with the remote to my garage door that I clip to my sun visor); 20th century answers to idiotic 21st century Porsche "solutions"
n
03-19-2024, 12:40 PM
#52
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I can send you a pdf of the "reminder" while you wait for Porsche to admit they've actually "overlooked" something... could this be an upgrade done OTA?
For those interested, the weight savings of disabling the AM radio band is offset by the weight of a small portable radio for road service conditions (511 in Alaska); forget your phone you have no signal when you leave the major towns. The decision maker should get a Nobel for that idiocy (interference in EV vehicles was the reason in a 992????)
Jeep admitted that they made a mistake and corrected it when they came out with square headlights...
siberian
For those interested, the weight savings of disabling the AM radio band is offset by the weight of a small portable radio for road service conditions (511 in Alaska); forget your phone you have no signal when you leave the major towns. The decision maker should get a Nobel for that idiocy (interference in EV vehicles was the reason in a 992????)
Jeep admitted that they made a mistake and corrected it when they came out with square headlights...
siberian
03-19-2024, 01:29 PM
#53
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Yes I have the GB50.
I wasn’t able to get the frunk open, let alone the battery.
I suspect it’s because I wasn’t getting a good enough ground near the door hinge but yet the Porsche tech had no issues with his onboard booster pack.
The leads from the gb50 are also awfully short.
M
I wasn’t able to get the frunk open, let alone the battery.
I suspect it’s because I wasn’t getting a good enough ground near the door hinge but yet the Porsche tech had no issues with his onboard booster pack.
The leads from the gb50 are also awfully short.
M
We offer what we call the "Clampless Harness kit" from Antigravity Batteries that allows you to connect your Jump Starter directly to the Battery of your Car itself. Then if you ever accidentally drain your battery and can't get inb the frunk you WILL NOT have to go through the hassle of trying to find a good grounding point while trying to connect to your buss bar in the fuse panel. You will simply plug your Antigravity Jump Starter into this Haness which your route to your hood/windsheild junction, and either pop the frunk or Start the Car.
It works because it actually energizes your system from the Battery Connections themself, it is not going through a thinner gauge wire in the Fuse Panel, and does not require you make sure you have a good connection at a grounding point with your clamps like doing that fuse panel method. I probably posted this much earlier in the thread but some may not have seen it....
Here is a Link to this type of Product. It can work with a few brands of Products that use the more standard connections, but won't work with NOCO who have a proprietary connection plug. https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...arness-msa10c/
There is also a video on the link page that explains it better. But it will make getting into your frunk a slam dunk and only take literally seconds.
03-19-2024, 02:21 PM
#54
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Would a noco genius 5 with force charge feature be sufficient to wake up a "sleeping" lithium battery. My battery went to sleep mode. Charge o mat would not detect, but genius 5 did and started charging, but still could not even unlock doors . Wondering if I left on longer if it would have worked
CTEK definately won't do it and NOCO doesn't do it well either on most BMS we tested. The Optimate does have a model that does it pretty darn good, it has a seperate button on it that you press for the BMS wake-up. But we have not tested it on a Porsche Battery specifically yet. Only on ours and some others.
03-19-2024, 03:42 PM
#55
RL Community Team
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Hi Scott, a small comment on the connection cable you mention in your first reply.
The protrusion near the wiper is IMHO unsightly, could a longer cable not be routed into the car's foot well area where it could be secured until needed? The car door can always be opened with the spare key nestled in the FOB and that would be preferable.
Also in the example you pose, a cap needs to be provided to shield the contacts from rain/snow/mud... I know breaking into or through the firewall is not trivial but I'm sure there's a grommet or two that the wire could be routed through (in this case I would suggest a reverse installation by feeding the connectors through from the car to the frunk rather than trying to force the connector through the rubber seal.
Just a thought
siberian
The protrusion near the wiper is IMHO unsightly, could a longer cable not be routed into the car's foot well area where it could be secured until needed? The car door can always be opened with the spare key nestled in the FOB and that would be preferable.
Also in the example you pose, a cap needs to be provided to shield the contacts from rain/snow/mud... I know breaking into or through the firewall is not trivial but I'm sure there's a grommet or two that the wire could be routed through (in this case I would suggest a reverse installation by feeding the connectors through from the car to the frunk rather than trying to force the connector through the rubber seal.
Just a thought
siberian
03-19-2024, 03:47 PM
#56
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Hi Scott, a small comment on the connection cable you mention in your first reply.
The protrusion near the wiper is IMHO unsightly, could a longer cable not be routed into the car's foot well area where it could be secured until needed? The car door can always be opened with the spare key nestled in the FOB and that would be preferable.
Also in the example you pose, a cap needs to be provided to shield the contacts from rain/snow/mud... I know breaking into or through the firewall is not trivial but I'm sure there's a grommet or two that the wire could be routed through (in this case I would suggest a reverse installation by feeding the connectors through from the car to the frunk rather than trying to force the connector through the rubber seal.
Just a thought
siberian
The protrusion near the wiper is IMHO unsightly, could a longer cable not be routed into the car's foot well area where it could be secured until needed? The car door can always be opened with the spare key nestled in the FOB and that would be preferable.
Also in the example you pose, a cap needs to be provided to shield the contacts from rain/snow/mud... I know breaking into or through the firewall is not trivial but I'm sure there's a grommet or two that the wire could be routed through (in this case I would suggest a reverse installation by feeding the connectors through from the car to the frunk rather than trying to force the connector through the rubber seal.
Just a thought
siberian
Best regards,
Chad
Last edited by Antigravity; 03-19-2024 at 03:48 PM.
03-19-2024, 04:43 PM
#57
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Hey Siberian, technically it could really be routed anywhere as long as the length is there...main thing would just be avoiding any possibility of the harness being crimpled/pinched, or located close to a direct heat source where it could be damaged. Images shown just generally offer the quickest and easiest means of terminating and running the line to an external location.
Best regards,
Chad
Best regards,
Chad
Also the TIP has a weather proof cover that we don't show in that image below...
Last edited by Antigravity; 03-19-2024 at 05:02 PM.
03-19-2024, 06:39 PM
#58
RL Community Team
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Thanks Scott. Does it come in different lengths? I've not looked at the feasibility of routing the wire through the firewall but will investigate. I don't think heat will be an issue as I don't see anything like that (given the engine is in the back) as an issue.
Just got my car back after three plus months so just want to drive it at the moment
siberian
Just got my car back after three plus months so just want to drive it at the moment
siberian
Last edited by siberian; 03-19-2024 at 06:40 PM.
03-20-2024, 01:16 AM
#59
Sorry, I don't know how to add to or edit my previous post, so I am composing yet another reply. Towards the end I wrote "Accessed the battery in the frunk and started charging it." I wish! I had connected the NOCO Genius 10 to the battery plus post and the dedicated ground chassis post in the frunk and set the NOCO to Lithium mode. Turned the NOCO on and the first segment of the battery charge indicator started slowly flashing red. It still did after 8 hours. The NOCO was not charging the battery. Disconnected the NOCO. Gave the CTEK Lithium US a shot. Connected the CTEK to the same posts. Turned it on and ... nothing. Pressed the CTEK's Reset button to wake up the battery ... nothing ... held the Reset button for quite a while to force the charging cycle, the charging light illuminated briefly and ... turned dark. At this point in time I was tired of trying to use intelligent charging modes for Lithium batteries. I connected the NOCO once again using the same posts, turned it on, set it into 12V Supply mode, waited 10 seconds, turned the ignition ... and the car came back from the dead! I disconnected the NOCO after another 30 seconds while keeping the engine running and am charging the battery by running the engine idle. Hope this helps somebody.
Last edited by JoachimK; 03-20-2024 at 01:50 AM.
03-20-2024, 04:07 PM
#60
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Thanks Scott. Does it come in different lengths? I've not looked at the feasibility of routing the wire through the firewall but will investigate. I don't think heat will be an issue as I don't see anything like that (given the engine is in the back) as an issue.
Just got my car back after three plus months so just want to drive it at the moment
siberian
Just got my car back after three plus months so just want to drive it at the moment
siberian
Heat would not be an issue, and routing is super easy because the 8 or 10Awg Cables are super flexible being we use high strand-count copperwire with a silicone silicone insulation. Silicone is super flexible and can handle upwards of 500 Degrees. These are used in Race Cars, SUV and other Front Engine Cars so they are proven out running in extremely hot areas.
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siberian (03-20-2024)