Damaged Front Spoiler - Repair?
#16
Instructor
Get a replacement. You'll never be happy with the repair results.
#17
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I would repair, if possible. It will be invisible from any reasonable distance, so only you will know until you forget, and changes are it will happen again, and having a repaired one rather than new one will make it much less painful .
#18
just spotted this thread from over in the 991 Turbo forum - I guess this disproves my theory that the 992's rippled lip was designed to be more flexible than the 991's, LOL.
in any event, I just posted about a bonding material I used to fix my 991's lip - my damage wasn't as bad as this, and the big downside is that the material is glossy so it will be somewhat noticeable, but I can say that it holds up extremely well - tested at nearly 110mph, several spoiler retractions and deployments, and it still holds up great:
in any event, I just posted about a bonding material I used to fix my 991's lip - my damage wasn't as bad as this, and the big downside is that the material is glossy so it will be somewhat noticeable, but I can say that it holds up extremely well - tested at nearly 110mph, several spoiler retractions and deployments, and it still holds up great:
#20
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
So I tried @Angryinch 's approach - stitched her up, but used a plastic welder to try to smooth out and cover up the stitching.
I was happy with the stitching (other than the color of monofilm I used). It held up, allowed the spoiler to stay flexible, and the spoiler retracted and lowered into position nicely.
However, when I used the plastic welder to cover up the stitch work (I did this solely for aesthetics) the welder and hot plastic burned the monofilm underneath but initially sealed the tear.
Within a few hours as the plastic weld cooled I could see that it was going to separate from the spoiler... and it did... exposing the now burnt/torn monofilm... tear now back to where I started. I was not happy with my welding work (I am pretty good with a soldering iron and I practiced my plastic welds before doing the repair, but it still did not come out so well).
So... what I am doing now? I am going to re-stitch the tear with black monofilm. Thx for y'all's suggestion on epoxies, JB Plastic Weld, etc. but I think that any sealant/glue that cures hard is not going to work here. The spoiler material is really unique. It's strong (it was tough to get needle and monofilm through it - that stitching took 20 mins!), flexible, and stick-resistant (road grime etc. washes off) so I am still looking for a glue/sealant that will bond to it and look good without destroying it or the stitching underneath.
NEXT REPAIR - ATTEMPT #2: Before I used the Harbor Freight plastic welder, I drove the vehicle for 2 days in various conditions, lowered/retracted the spoiler numerous times, with just the yellow monofilm and it was fine. I'll re-stitch her with black monofilm and post the pics. I'll run it for a few weeks and post any updates. Track season coming up... will post results after I run it on track too.
Cheers,
L76
I was happy with the stitching (other than the color of monofilm I used). It held up, allowed the spoiler to stay flexible, and the spoiler retracted and lowered into position nicely.
However, when I used the plastic welder to cover up the stitch work (I did this solely for aesthetics) the welder and hot plastic burned the monofilm underneath but initially sealed the tear.
Within a few hours as the plastic weld cooled I could see that it was going to separate from the spoiler... and it did... exposing the now burnt/torn monofilm... tear now back to where I started. I was not happy with my welding work (I am pretty good with a soldering iron and I practiced my plastic welds before doing the repair, but it still did not come out so well).
So... what I am doing now? I am going to re-stitch the tear with black monofilm. Thx for y'all's suggestion on epoxies, JB Plastic Weld, etc. but I think that any sealant/glue that cures hard is not going to work here. The spoiler material is really unique. It's strong (it was tough to get needle and monofilm through it - that stitching took 20 mins!), flexible, and stick-resistant (road grime etc. washes off) so I am still looking for a glue/sealant that will bond to it and look good without destroying it or the stitching underneath.
NEXT REPAIR - ATTEMPT #2: Before I used the Harbor Freight plastic welder, I drove the vehicle for 2 days in various conditions, lowered/retracted the spoiler numerous times, with just the yellow monofilm and it was fine. I'll re-stitch her with black monofilm and post the pics. I'll run it for a few weeks and post any updates. Track season coming up... will post results after I run it on track too.
Cheers,
L76
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084runnerltd (06-14-2024)
#21
Rennlist Member
You might try E6000 with the stitching - flexible, waterproof....works on all materials....I used it on my canvas top in a flexible section for over 7 years with no issues and also on my spoiler wall (plastic/rubber) on my 993.....it is clear and strong......worth a try......easier to use also.......in addition to stitching to get it just right or flush, probably have to use small vise type device/s while it cures for best appearance.........
Great try with JB weld and stitching.....all said, maybe auto insurance covers a new one?
Great try with JB weld and stitching.....all said, maybe auto insurance covers a new one?
Last edited by abiazis; 03-26-2024 at 12:18 PM.
#22
call a few junkyards.992 TTS is a common car and plenty have been wrecked. you can find a replacement this way for a fraction of the cost. just a suggestion
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#25
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
-L76
#26
Rennlist Member
Keep us posted....interested to see if the E6000 works as well as it did for me over time) You did as good a job as possible with the textured rubber surface not being possible to duplicate...
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#30
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Currently has e6000 and black monofilm. Busted 4 needles stitching it up! That's some tough (but flexible) material! I'll send more pix later in the year as I put another 5k-10k miles on it.
Cheers,
L76
Cheers,
L76