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I ran into a small dilemma. I wasn’t aware that the badge came pre-attached on the decklid, so now I’m faced with either running it as is (…which I don’t really want to do), or risk damaging the decklid trying to remove it. I definitely don’t want to be running around with people thinking I’m trying to be a fake GT3, but I love this decklid. It was a very simple 5 minute swap; the connector plugged right in. Advice on how I should proceed? I am thinking maybe a 3D printed piece to cover the “GT3 Touring” lettering.
I ran into a small dilemma. I wasn’t aware that the badge came pre-attached on the decklid, so now I’m faced with either running it as is (…which I don’t really want to do), or risk damaging the decklid trying to remove it. I definitely don’t want to be running around with people thinking I’m trying to be a fake GT3, but I love this decklid. It was a very simple 5 minute swap; the connector plugged right in. Advice on how I should proceed?
Don't think it will be that much of a challenge to remove it - I'd at least try and pop it out using nylon removal tools . . or maybe find where the pin sockets are on the back side.
Don't think it will be that much of a challenge to remove it - I'd at least try and pop it out using nylon removal tools . . or maybe find where the pin sockets are on the back side.
I did attempt both of the suggested approaches. The pin sockets aren’t accessible from the underside and the badge is stuck on the deck lid using 3M tape on steroids. Trying to pry it off starts to damage the surrounding portion of the deck lid so I stopped.
well that sucks! Did you try a heat gun? If it's stuck on wtih tape, heat is your friend. And if you are not worried about sacrificing the existing logo, you can run some drywall screws into it and then have something to pull on . .
well that sucks! Did you try a heat gun? If it's stuck on wtih tape, heat is your friend. And if you are not worried about sacrificing the existing logo, you can run some drywall screws into it and then have something to pull on . .
I will have the body shop try a heat gun. I just worry about the surrounding plastic. I have a spare badge that I ordered so a friend can 3D print it, so sacrificing the badge on the deck lid isn’t a concern. The drywall screw idea has merit.
Originally Posted by Shogunade
Aren't those two rivets?
No, they are just guides to ensure placement is centered. The badge is attached using 3M-like adhesive strips.
You could try Dremeling a notch in the side of the badge so you can find an edge where you can fit a strong nylon pry tool. Apply heat (doesn't have to be hot enough to affect the plastic) and gently pry up. You'd probably need to tape up the area to prevent marring the plastic surround.
If it were me, I would 3D print a badge cover like you intended. It could cover the old one and have whatever you want on it. If done properly it won't even look like it's not an original badge.
Here’s the update fellas. The modeling for the deck lid badge is almost complete. Now to the production stage. It’ll be a full replacement piece made from aluminum, PVD coated black to match the OEM badge and the “3.0 S” will be machined to showcase the raw aluminum.
wow - amazing! Any chance I could piggyback on the order and get 2 each made with only 4.5 on them? My current skunk project is a Deman 4.5L touring, and these would be a cool touch.
02-26-2024, 09:26 PM
