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I just did my first spark plug change (1 year and almost 10k miles) and it's like the 991.2 DIY Spark Plug change, with the following changes:
1. New spark plugs are weird looking (the electrode that attaches to the coil is totally different - I thought I had snapped off the top when I saw the first one, but that's how they look now)
2. They are using a much improved connector to the coils (I hated the old connectors and the new ones are very intuitive and easy to use - just slide back a little yellow locking clip to remove and slide it back to lock). Press on the large black tab that the yellow tab locks to remove from coil.
3. There is no longer a sensor in the way of the left forward plug, as with the 991.2.
4. Plug torque is 23 Nm (fresh install or replacing used ones same torque now) and the screws that hold the coils down are 9.5 Nm.
5. The 8 black screws that hold on the 2 heat shields (one per bank) and the 6 silver coil screws are all T30.
6. There is some unusual yellow lube (1-2 mm thick application) that is used on the end of the boots for the coils (and some of this stays on the old plugs - you can reuse this at least once in my experience - rub this part of the old plug onto the boot ends). I'm sure you can buy some fresh stuff if you prefer, but make sure you get the right stuff from the dealer.
7. It's very helpful to have a variety of different length socket extensions (and some wobble ones too).
8. Same Hazet 4766-2 plug socket as 991.2, or equivalent
9. When removing coil screws, no need to screw them all the way out of the coil (helpful to have them attached) just out of the cylinder head.
Weird connector on top of new plugs:
Fancy Italian made Aluminum-Silicon-Magnesium alloy heads (and notice new coil connector with yellow locking tab - connector removed from coil and coil screws removed):
Original plugs with lube residue:
BTW, I don't think the change is required until 2 years. I was just being a little proactive (plugs looked good)
GRANT, great post it’s good to have somebody on the form that’s not afraid to do their own maintenance.
I am a firm believer in doing all of your own maintenance..
Assuming you have the skills, experience and the tools
It’s not about the money it’s about taking the time to do it right..
Extremely helpful thanks! Carl
Good Information. However, I would think the change would have been around 30,000 miles? I never heard changing the plugs at 10K. Seems like solving a problem that does not exist. Maybe it is just me....
Anyways, helpful information!
Good Information. However, I would think the change would have been around 30,000 miles? I never heard changing the plugs at 10K. Seems like solving a problem that does not exist. Maybe it is just me....
Anyways, helpful information!
i think factory says 2 years regardless of mileage.
i think factory says 2 years regardless of mileage.
Yes, even if never driven. I think proposed theories include galvanic corrosion between steel plugs and alloy heads as well as the boots becoming welded to the plugs with heat over time (I guess this yellow lube is meant to help with that).
Good Information. However, I would think the change would have been around 30,000 miles? I never heard changing the plugs at 10K. Seems like solving a problem that does not exist. Maybe it is just me....
Anyways, helpful information!
Was with a a 991 GT3 RS and 991.1 GT3, but a couple members had poor running due to worn plugs in a very short time (fewer than 10k) that was cured with new plugs.
I also have a feeling that frequent changes will keep the coils in good shape (I think worn plugs are bad for coils).
Just being a little overly cautious, I’m sure.
I’m sure 2 years is fine, but wouldn’t go indefinitely because someone has low miles.
Grant - How long did it take you? I'm sure you have done this a lot so you are probably more proficient than most.
It takes a couple hours if you're slow like me. Good idea to save this job for a time when you're removing the rear wheels anyway (gives much better access and no need to remove the undertray/diffuser).
And I think it's always recommended that you change plugs when the engine is cold (not just to protect your hands, but I think it makes for a better install and more accurate torque value).
It takes a couple hours if you're slow like me. Good idea to save this job for a time when you're removing the rear wheels anyway (gives much better access and no need to remove the undertray/diffuser).
And I think it's always recommended that you change plugs when the engine is cold (not just to protect your hands, but I think it makes for a better install and more accurate torque value).
You can always use dielectric grease made by Permatex and it only costs 9$. Porsche doesn't make that grease,nor do the other car manufacturers. I have personally seen a Ford original silicone branded by their in house parts supplier Motorcraft...and if you removed the Motorcraft sticker you would find a 3M product underneath. In this case,perhaps Porsche afforded completely rebranding the dielectric grease tube and not just slap a sticker on top to cover the original manufacturer...
09-25-2022 | 08:58 PM
DIY Spark Plug Change
