I'll say that it's not any harsher than a 991.2 GT3RS actually feels a little better. It is loud due to the lack due to gorilla glass/removal of sound deadening.

But you get all the TQ at around 2k RPM and it feel significantly faster and more agile than any GT3/RS product on the street. Haven't gotten to the track yet as I've only had it for a few weeks.

 

May not want to "max" the settings first times out on track...unless you are of the mindset, and bank accounts, of Thomas Crowne. Some racing sims can probably give you a general idea of what goes on when settings are changed, both more safely, and cheaply. One of these, like mine below, could help:

 

Hmm, I dunno.

While there's some truth to that, imagine if we took that same mantra to tires and tire pressure?

What if we could only run one size of tires, and one tire pressure, because, y'know, a great driver like a great chef only needs one knife ...

 

I don't think maxing the settings out in either direction would have any sort of catastrophic effect, if that were the case then Porsche needs consider redevelopment. It would just provide the most obvious differentiation between each setting and clearly you wouldn't be going for a 10/10ths lap on the first session.

I'm sure Porsche had the C&C crowd in mind also and made the settings idiot-proof i.e much less range of adjustment than an actual racing car. I'll come back to the forum in several months when everybody is on here complaining they ran the exact same lap time regardless of what settings they chose and there isn't enough range of adjustment lol. After all, have to leave some room for the inevitable Manthey Racing kit for a few more bucks.

 

Its all marketing claptrap to distract punters from the unimproved engine and justify the massive price hike. All IMHO of course

 

perhaps you konw how to adj better than most.
the 2 decade I instructed on track.... you would not belive 3what I have seen.
if they just left it in 3rd gear, they would be 15% faster than shifting
if they ran OEM rubber with oem size, they woudl hve less gray hair.
triple motons
in cockpit adj bladed sway bar...
yes, Senna and schumi got those down ... but mortal.... no.
forget cars. in MTB racing, they can't even dial in ONE ****...

theory good
reality no so much

my colleagues way back use 7b to 4H pencils I ony use exclusively 2H, duplicating every grade of pencil they had..
woudl it be easier if I had all the grades, yes, but this is easier.

for me anyways.

 

bingo. now where do I get the engineers?
I was at laguna when they ran the Penske Spyder for show.
7 computer hgooked to it and 7 engineers walk iwht the car to the hot pit and trying to do whatever it is they were doing....
I can't afford the car nor the 7 engineers
but if I had those guys, I am sure it will work out fine

 

Perhaps its better for those that don't understand the purpose of the buttons to do some basic homework - its pretty straightforward. Its more important to understand what you're adjusting and why you're doing it than to be given a recipe. Its also important to note, you may want to do other basics such as set the ARB to a preferred position for the dominant track you use.

Questions to ask
(1) what is Porsche PTV, how does PTV plus differ from PTV, what is an 'infinitely' adjustable diff - indeed what is an electronic diff
(2) how do dampers work, what is their purpose - why does shaft velocity matter in compression and rebound, why would you want to increase or decrease shaft velocity
(3) what is the difference between traction control and electronic stability control, how is loss of grip detected

If you understand the basics and that you're trying to manage pitch, roll and yaw in order to achieve maximum available grip (e.g using max lineal g, lateral g and g sum)with the tires at any given point in time - you'll arrive at driving nirvana....... Defined by a well described friction circle.

I would also suggest, if you're not familiar with these types of adjustment you would most likely benefit a lot more from driver training with good pros than simply fiddling around with the various buttons in the hope of finding the magic recipe......because basically there isn't one.

The absence of a brake bias adjuster is very telling.

 

Can you put this all in a flow chart?

 

Exactly

 

Pretty much semantics. I bet 5 percent of owners actually get them to the track, and less than half of them actually understand suspension fine tuning in relation to driving the car at speed. To really figure things out with these settings you'll have to run data anyways and who's really running that at most tracks who aren't already in race cars. Admittedly, sway bar adjustments in cabin are probably the most useful for easy effect...but to each their own!

 

It's going to be awesome, everybody is going to want it, we are all growing inpatient and trying to come up with reasons to dislike it and complain about the approach taken, mainly because we don't have any
reviews or driving impressions yet. I hope it destroys all existing track records and sets a new performance bar...

 

u grossly over estimated and too optimistic.
there are some big pro teams that can't get it right....
but it's all good.
the buttons will be fine for me when I goto Home Depot.

 

I think your neighbors up there in Woodside are going to freak out when they see you in that car!

 

If I was an early adopter of this car first thing I would do is start a "share your track settings" thread here.