Interesting thread and great advice 🙏

What's the situation with PCCB ? I have an upcoming track day, I drive 7-8/10 and wonder if oem pads will suffIce?

 

IMO, the OEM PCCB pads suck. I would not trust them on the track and removed them before my break-in was done.

I’ve been using the .2 pads - on my 4th set now.

Will be changing out to AP in the next couple of weeks.

 

You might want to try the Pagid RSC1 compound front and rear. Good street manners and work well on track. Not sure who the suppliers are in Australia, but you would need pad shapes 4927 (front) and 4925 (rear).

 

Is the compound the same on the GT4 and 991.2 gt3 factory pads ? I understand the size is the same as what I wonder is if the compound would be better suited for a couple track days a year versus the 992 Gt3 factory pads? I’d really prefer not to go to a full race pad . Looking for something that’s quiet on the street and can be driven at 8/10ths on the track. Carl

 

Had a chat with my SA the other day and was moaning a bit about the braking performance of the steels, long story short I was told that any changes to aftermarket pads makes the warranty void, does this sound reasonable at all? Was told my only option is to upgrade to the ‘race pads’ offered on tequipment. Anyone knows something about this option, i.e. which firm produces the race pads, if the change includes other items such as brake fluid? What are the gains, are the gains noticeable, and if yes, is this only on track driving or are things noticeably different on spirited public road driving?

 

Where are you located?

What type of warranty claim would be voided??

 

Europe, Switzerland. Any warranty claim on mechanical parts would be denied on the these grounds. Sounds like bs or plain ignorance, no?

 

Yep.

I mean, what warranty claim are you going to submit on the brakes? The pads are bad?? Yep. They suck. The rotors are defective? How often does that happen.

Personally, I think the OEM pads are garbage. I would forego a warranty claim on the brakes for pads that actually work.

 

Here’s one: my ceramic pucks cracked. But it was due to extreme taper on a fluke of one pad. Aftermarket pad’s fault? Rotor’s fault? Defective caliper fault? Who knows. But I ate it (new caliper) because of the aftermarket pads (didn’t even bother taking it to dealer).

 

Yes, I have heard of people that have had warranty replacement of a caliper (due to chipped piston puck) refused with race pads and others who had no problems with warranty after they replaced the stock brake pads before going to the dealer for service (do at your own risk).

Note: If you keep a close eye on pad wear and flip pads or replace when you see uneven wear, you should avoid any issue with piston puck failure. I think they almost always break from tapered pad wear.

 

Good to know, I would have saved a lot of money on the GT4! I just converted to stainless pistons.

 

For steel rotors either Endless MX72 or Ferodo DS2500 are the way to go.

-Matt M.

 

This is an excellent point. Here's an article I wrote on pad management that you all may find useful: Essex Track and Racing Brake Pad Owner's Guide

 

RE10s all the way. Cost more, but last longer. Bite is very good as is feel.

 

How long do the RE10s last vs the DS3.12s for the same car / driver?