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I have had issues this past winter as well. I plugged mine into the footwell outlet. The charger would stop charging every few days. I had to re-connect it multiple times. Never had this issue with my other P cars in the past. I was told at the dealership to wake-up the car first (turn on the ignition then shut it off) before connecting the trickle charger. It seemed to work intermittently. I have a feeling that direct connection to battery will be required.
MY new Touring came with a specific CTEK in the frunk!
The new cars are coming with the charger and a letter to the dealer saying that they can give it to the owner as a gift or charge for it. If the owner doesn’t want to pay for it if it’s not a gift it goes back into dealer inventory.
I tried doing it the old way at first and like someone else said it was intermittent and never worked properly. After a few weeks last winter the car alarmed and completely died. I had to jump it through the door hinge and a fuse box, major PITA.
For long term storage the only proper was is to get a new or equivalent CTEK li-ion charger and directly wire it to the battery. Learned my lesson.
A direct connection is always your best best with modern cars. As mentioned the body control modules systematically deactivate circuits to limit parasitic draw.
In LiPo equipped cars, if voltage drops below a threshhold, the car with also mechanically disconnect itself from the battery via a breaker to avoid battery damage.
My solution was a fused line directly to my battery with a discrete connection point next to windshield washer reservoir.
Is this really necessary for a battery less than 4 years old? It should be under warranty if it does..
My SA mentioned several owners with dead batteries after only a few days. He didn’t elaborate on whether it was the light weight track battery or li-ion batteries in general. So I’ll be sure to plug it in when I’m away longer than a week. Better to be safe than sorry.
Edit to my previous post that it was working fine from the footwell plug. It’s not consistent, it stayed on for a day and when I used it again it shut off a few times. Never had issues with my 991.2
A direct connection is always your best best with modern cars. As mentioned the body control modules systematically deactivate circuits to limit parasitic draw.
In LiPo equipped cars, if voltage drops below a threshhold, the car with also mechanically disconnect itself from the battery via a breaker to avoid battery damage.
My solution was a fused line directly to my battery with a discrete connection point next to windshield washer reservoir.
Elegant solution!
…yet all Porsche batteries warn explicitly NOT to connect directly to the negative port, but to use the post provided and labeled as such. Makes it difficult to hardwire a solution…
My SA mentioned several owners with dead batteries after only a few days. He didn’t elaborate on whether it was the light weight track battery or li-ion batteries in general. So I’ll be sure to plug it in when I’m away longer than a week. Better to be safe than sorry.
Same here. I've never been a big battery tender guy, but I'm a bit more concerned with the LiPO battery so I now plug it in any time I might not drive it for a few days (like when I'm out of town).
I’ve noticed my maintainer will stay connected through the passenger socket in ‘car’ mode, but not while being in ‘li-ion’ mode. Seems strange since the car has a lithium battery.
Anyone else noticing this?
So the Li-Ion mode works when I have the ignition on, plug maintainer into outlet, choose Li-Ion mode & turn the ignition off. I leave the doors unlocked & it looks like it stays online. However, the mode light & battery light go away after it cycles through to full battery. The status light stays solid green though. Is this normal for Li-Ion mode? Will it cycle back on automatically when the battery level drops?
The ‘car’ mode seems to stay on with the full battery icon constantly with doors locked.
Not sure which one to choose now. The solid green light with nothing else lit up makes me wonder if it’s even maintaining? Need to make a decision as I’ll be out of town for next couple weeks 🤔
You get the green LED when the charger is powered up but not connected so I think absence of the other lights means its not active.
I'm a bit concerned about 'maintenance' charging, in contrast to lead-acid, Li batteries are optimally stored at 80% charge to promote longevity- not sure if the C-Tek does this-might have to RTFM!
You get the green LED when the charger is powered up but not connected so I think absence of the other lights means its not active.
I'm a bit concerned about 'maintenance' charging, in contrast to lead-acid, Li batteries are optimally stored at 80% charge to promote longevity- not sure if the C-Tek does this-might have to RTFM!
Interesting. So it seems I’ll be sticking with the ‘car’ mode as it stays solid green & shows all the lights.
Interesting. So it seems I’ll be sticking with the ‘car’ mode as it stays solid green & shows all the lights.
That's what I did and my car died after about 8 weeks... total flatline requiring a jump.
Like the other guy said, RTFM. There doesn't seem to be a shortcut other than using Li-ion mode and hardwiring it to the batt and post through the hood.
07-02-2022, 07:01 PM
