992 GT3RS
#4726
The stance/setup on your car is perfect. Do you have your ride height measurements by chance?
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RealityGT (08-23-2022)
#4728
GT3 player par excellence
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If you can't afford the tires you can't afford the car. Its that simple. Wait till you see the price of the Trofeo RS they will be 20%-30% more than CUP2R. Tires are a consumable, like brake pads or brake rotors - most people that track their cars understand this, they may not like the cost, but they accept the trade off. Also most sensible people would have one or more alternate sets of wheels.
Also you seem to assume that RS owners don't have other cars including Cup cars - well, surprise surprise they do. You are looking at the world through a very small lens.
Windows down - on a track is dangerous, you may need to find a track that in conversant with modern safety standards. Track marshals should have extinguishers and window breakers as should any car on a track - not only for your use, but to save others.
Also you seem to assume that RS owners don't have other cars including Cup cars - well, surprise surprise they do. You are looking at the world through a very small lens.
Windows down - on a track is dangerous, you may need to find a track that in conversant with modern safety standards. Track marshals should have extinguishers and window breakers as should any car on a track - not only for your use, but to save others.
but it's really not that extreme
it's a nice track car and a good DD as well. I DD's all my RS since 2007
on track I used to mod cars. then I just drove cup cars
tires... surely you jest.
I buy bulk
racing at Rennsport LS GTB2
tires in my cave
tires picked up at my trailer ;-)
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JonathanWalker (08-24-2022)
#4730
In my mind, this is the best scenario for this car:
- Buy at MSRP with limited options.
- Use Cup 2 tires.
- Do a limited number of track days each year, and get per event track insurance.
- Don't take a lot of stuff to the track in the car, hence frunk not needed. Maybe the ride to/from the track would be tolerable with dampers on softest setting.
- Sell before the warranty expires, hopefully not taking much of a loss on the car.
With this scenario, the annual operating cost will be reasonable, and the car will be plenty fast. This scenario appeals to me, but of course I won't be able to get the car at that price ...
- Buy at MSRP with limited options.
- Use Cup 2 tires.
- Do a limited number of track days each year, and get per event track insurance.
- Don't take a lot of stuff to the track in the car, hence frunk not needed. Maybe the ride to/from the track would be tolerable with dampers on softest setting.
- Sell before the warranty expires, hopefully not taking much of a loss on the car.
With this scenario, the annual operating cost will be reasonable, and the car will be plenty fast. This scenario appeals to me, but of course I won't be able to get the car at that price ...
#4731
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From: Mid-Atlantic (on land, not in the middle of the ocean)
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Drifting (08-24-2022)
#4732
There's your answer, buy a Miata and preserve your Porsche. If you're concerned about the cost of tires, the cost of a replacement fender will be an even bigger surprise Something like 15k Vs $700 for the aluminium equivalent. Frunk lid maybe around 30k Vs $1000 for the aluminium.........and thats with out paint and labour.
Last edited by groundhog; 08-23-2022 at 09:40 AM.
#4733
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From: Mid-Atlantic (on land, not in the middle of the ocean)
#4734
Well the best way to minimise risk is to do regular driver training - no crashes - no unforeseen costs
Last edited by groundhog; 08-23-2022 at 10:14 AM.
#4735
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From: Mid-Atlantic (on land, not in the middle of the ocean)
We were talking about costs, not safety.
On safety, a car with a full cage and fire suppression is generally safer than a street car that doesn't have a full cage. See photos posted earlier in this thread. It's with good reason that cages are generally required for racing in the US.
On safety, a car with a full cage and fire suppression is generally safer than a street car that doesn't have a full cage. See photos posted earlier in this thread. It's with good reason that cages are generally required for racing in the US.
#4736
No crashes - no unforeseen costs - benefit of more driver training.
Well, my current RS has the full cage from Porsche as will my next RS. You order it when you order the car.
This has always been an option (its made by Eisenmann for Porsche and comes with DMSB safety cage certificate)
Both the carbon fibre and titanium 1/2 cages are a waste of time and have to be replaced by the full CrMo cage if you want to participate in competitions/series.
Well, my current RS has the full cage from Porsche as will my next RS. You order it when you order the car.
This has always been an option (its made by Eisenmann for Porsche and comes with DMSB safety cage certificate)
Both the carbon fibre and titanium 1/2 cages are a waste of time and have to be replaced by the full CrMo cage if you want to participate in competitions/series.
Last edited by groundhog; 08-23-2022 at 10:38 AM.
#4737
No crashes - no unforeseen costs - benefit of more driver training.
Well, my current RS has the full cage from Porsche as will my next RS. You order it when you order the car.
This has always been an option (its made by Eisenmann for Porsche and comes with DMSB safety cage certificate)
Both the carbon fibre and titanium 1/2 cages are a waste of time and have to be replaced by the full CrMo cage.
Well, my current RS has the full cage from Porsche as will my next RS. You order it when you order the car.
This has always been an option (its made by Eisenmann for Porsche and comes with DMSB safety cage certificate)
Both the carbon fibre and titanium 1/2 cages are a waste of time and have to be replaced by the full CrMo cage.
#4738
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From: Mid-Atlantic (on land, not in the middle of the ocean)
A 'full cage' envelopes the cockpit as a space frame. The 'half cage' which goes behind the seats is not a full cage and not nearly as effective as a full cage in preventing the cockpit from crushing. That half cage can't be ordered with the car in the US, we have to get it aftermarket (I have it in all of my track cars).
Yes, better driving is the best way to prevent crashing, but even the best drivers make mistakes, and mechanical failures and fluids dumped on the track also result in crashes. The car safety system needs to be configured based on the assumption that there will eventually be a crash. Most drivers who've done more than 200 days have crashed at least once. Assuming that one won't crash is only a good plan until one crashes - you don't need your seat belt until you need it.
#4739
No but copies are available you just have to make sure you order the footing fixtures. Also check the specs as in type of CrMo and tensile strength ratings (thickness of tube wall and diameter of tubes).
Last edited by groundhog; 08-23-2022 at 10:52 AM.
#4740
We're talking about operating costs of tires, brakes, track insurance, etc. - not crashes.
A 'full cage' envelopes the cockpit as a space frame. The 'half cage' which goes behind the seats is not a full cage and not nearly as effective as a full cage in preventing the cockpit from crushing. That half cage can't be ordered with the car in the US, we have to get it aftermarket (I have it in all of my track cars).
Yes, better driving is the best way to prevent crashing, but even the best drivers make mistakes, and mechanical failures and fluids dumped on the track also result in crashes. The car safety system needs to be configured based on the assumption that there will eventually be a crash. Most drivers who've done more than 200 days have crashed at least once. Assuming that one won't crash is only a good plan until one crashes - you don't need your seat belt until you need it.
A 'full cage' envelopes the cockpit as a space frame. The 'half cage' which goes behind the seats is not a full cage and not nearly as effective as a full cage in preventing the cockpit from crushing. That half cage can't be ordered with the car in the US, we have to get it aftermarket (I have it in all of my track cars).
Yes, better driving is the best way to prevent crashing, but even the best drivers make mistakes, and mechanical failures and fluids dumped on the track also result in crashes. The car safety system needs to be configured based on the assumption that there will eventually be a crash. Most drivers who've done more than 200 days have crashed at least once. Assuming that one won't crash is only a good plan until one crashes - you don't need your seat belt until you need it.
If you track your car, you have to be prepared to pay the replacement cost - if you're not prepared to do that why are you worried about the cost of tires?
Anyone that has been competitive at state or national level will have crashed multiple times - thats how it works if you push on and want to be at the pointy end.
You seem overly concerned about the cost of standard consumables and yet you have to replace wear and tear items, brake rotors, tires, fluids, hubs, brake pads, plastic parts and potentially CFRP parts. The standard stuff has a wear rate, the more you drive on track the quicker the consumable replacement rate.
Either that or don't drive it on track - you have to work out your budget and cut your cloth to match.
Last edited by groundhog; 08-23-2022 at 11:03 AM.
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