johnhv

I am interested in using my 991s on the track and I would like feedback from those of you who have been running their 991 on the track for the past few years with regards to how frequently you are needing to replace brake pads and or rotors and tires, and if there are other issues I should be aware of when I start using my car on the track. Your input would be appreciated.

BradB

I have tracked my 2014 991S since new and average 15-20 track days a season. OEM brake pads did not last long for me. I am a late-braker! I upgraded to Pagid RS 29 pads and Motul 600 fluid. OEM rotors crack easily but actually last a pretty long time. The fractures rarely extend hole to hole. As for tires, I have been using Michelin Pilot Super Sports since I drive to all my events. These have worn extremely well. I go through a set of pads and rotors each season. I got a season and a half on my last Michelins.

John's 991

My experience is very similar to Brad. Upgrade the brake pads and fluid (I prefer the Castrol), and I am running the Michelin Sport Cup 2's that I like a lot. I also added stainless steel brake lines, although I have heard the stock ones are good.

Other than the normal wear stuff (pads, rotors, tires) I melted the plastic around the wheel sensors so have have heat shields on them now. Its a lot of fun to see what these cars can really do.

No-Substitute

I have used my 2014 4S for DEs since new. Like BradB said the factory pads don't last long but that's not surprising.
I run Cup 2's on my factory wheels when it's dry and PSS on Vorsteiner wheels when it's wet. I'm looking to go to 19's for dry use so I can run more aggressive tires.
I'm using Motul brake fluid and Pagid yellow brake pads. Pagids last much longer but are too loud for me to use on the streets.
I had GT3 lower control arms installed so I could get more negative camber since I was eating up new tires in a weekend. Since then I've gotten two weekends out of a set of Cup 2's and may get a third.

RonD

I track my 2013 C2S at Laguna Seca. Like others have said the OE pads don’t last long. I went with the Race technologies RE10 pads front and rear. Pricey, but work well and last a long time. For me, all the holes in the OE rotors caused the rotors to groove badly and I didn’t like putting fresh pads on grooved rotors.

On the front I went with the Gyrodisc A1-032 slotted rotor, which is slightly larger at 350mm. The larger 991 GT3 shaped pad is compatible with this rotor and fits in the caliper with no need to use caliper to hub spacers.
I also did not want to use spacers on rear caliper so I am using the Sebro slotted rotor in stock size. I’ve been happy with this setup and works well on the track.

For tires I have been using Cup2’s, which I like for street /track, but going to order the BBS CH-R wheels in 19x9 and 19x11 with the Bridgestone RE71R 255/35 and 305/30 tires for the track and buy some nice street tires for my stock carrera s wheels.

Also this week I’m having the dealer install the center radiator to bring the engine temps down a bit.

BradB

I'd like to see what you did there. I can relate to the heat issues.

Something else I should mention, and something one needs to keep an eye on is the caliper piston rubber boots. I have melted inside boots on both the front and rear calipers. Centric makes replacement seals and they are cheap and easy to replace.

Churchill

Great advice in this thread. Also, turning off traction control will help save rear pads (will also force you to be a better driver).

randr

^^^^^
This is not really correct, the fronts wear at roughly twice the rate of the rears - Thus, ideally you will replace all rotors and pads at about the same time - plus bleed after every heavy duty track day Also its not just a question of whats left on the pads and rotors but the very state of the rotors themselves e.g. scour.

Those that are unsure, its a fairly simple matter to measure everything as a check. I do this before every track day to ensure there are no surprises. Also make maximum use of cool down laps - this is invaluable. As an absolute bottom line minimum even if you only do half a dozen track days a year you should replace the brake fluid at least once a year.

At the end of the day a lot depends on driving style and the track itself (corners radius relative to length of preceding straight) and don't forget to bed your new pads in

It would be interesting to calculate the front rear brake bias ..... weekend of fun

Jabs1542

I agree with Churchill on the brakes. If you trail brake or push the car to slip angles you will chew through rear brakes faster than fronts unless you turn off the nannies. The added bonus is that with the nannies off the car feels the way you would expect it to.

I'm also a fan of the slotted rotors (chewed through the cross drilled too fast, like every third event), I run the Gyrodisk up front with the Sebros in the rear.

Purchase a magnetic drain plug and change your oil often (I replace every 5 track days), you can inspect the drain plug for added comfort knowing the engine is performing flawlessly.

R_Rated

I haven't tracked this car yet but concur with everything stated based on past experience. Would add that anything to keep things cool... third radiator and PDK cooler from TPC will be installed on mine before tracking.

Also echo the importance of a proper cool town period.

I'm also a lot more conservative and like to change fluids every other track day.

Ira Blumberg

Anyone have experience with the carbon-ceramic brakes? I ordered them on my GTS. I would hate to think I need to change those rotors after even 10 or 15 track days.

Jabs1542

A friend of mine has them on his GT4. Tracked the **** out of his car all year last year, rotors are looking good and strong. He figures he'll get two years out of them (doing 30 track days a year). We compared ownership pricing and figured that it was about the same cost in the long run. I replace more often in thousand dollar increments, he does it much less in ten-thousand dollar increments. Recognize that we are talking about a lot of track days which is very abusive. YMMV

RODOLFO04

You have to turn the nannies off

if you don't, the car doesnt let you push at all, it brakes you with every minor lost of traction

Valvefloat991

Just did a track day in my 2017 C2 at High Plains Raceway outside of Denver and the car behaved very well. By the end of the day, I was running reasonably quickly and the water temperature never budged from the normal 194 degrees and the oil temperature peaked at 244 degrees--not bad given that temperature was 88. These were only 7-8 lap sessions, but my car is dead stock with no additional cooling, so I was pleased.

The brakes felt strong and didn't fade, though I was braking conservatively because slow-in, fast-out is a much safer way when tracking an uninsured car. There wasn't even that much brake dust on the wheels. Of course, I probably put 5000 miles of wear ont he brakes, but so be it.

Leecw

Where did you order the rear Sebro Slotted rotors from? I have a 2017 C2S and would like to replace the rear cross drilled OEM rotors with slotted
Thanks