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[QUOTE=Porsche_nuts;14113459]So, what's the concensus on getting new bolts. True, they are not expensive, but can't see why they can't be reused. Torque of 63 ft/lbs is not that much. I don't know -- probably better to be safe than sorry, I guess . . .[/QUOTE
The calipers seat on the wheel carrier in an integrated fit. The torque on the caliper, when braking is not absorbed solely by the bolt. I think it is more of an issue with shearing an older heat cycled bolt in the wheel housing, which can an expensive proposition to repair. Personally, I am more concerned about stripping the carrier. To alleviate my concern, I installed caliper studs that make brake pad changes much easier.
I would not be very concerned about changing the bolts, if your inspection on removal shows no corrosion or unusual wear. Like any part exposed to heat its a good idea to R&R on a schedule commensurate with your particular driving.
So, what's the concensus on getting new bolts. True, they are not expensive, but can't see why they can't be reused. Torque of 63 ft/lbs is not that much. I don't know -- probably better to be safe than sorry, I guess . . .
Caliper bolts are about $5 each...$40 for piece of mind on a life dependent component is worth it
Caliper studs go a long way towards making brake changes quick and easy. Plus never having to replace the bolts again. Also replace the brake line bolt with a stud while you're there. Tarett sells all this jazz.
As for the sensors, just twist them together and forget them. They complicate brake changes and never in my life have a I ran a pad low enough on any car to trigger a sensor. Simple visual inspections while your washing wheels should clue you in if you're pads look thin.
Coming from 997's, having to remove the calipers for pad changes adds minor aggravation compared the open top caliper style but honestly with the caliber studs it's only 10-15 minutes additional time for the whole car.
Tarret caliper studs are on my car. Also did the Tarret wheel stud conversion. Goodbye to the OEM bolts. I will be offering my Titanium bolts for sale soon as I just did the conversion yesterday.
I used Tarrett as well when I upgraded to Girodisc rotors. It makes for easy track to street pad swaps. I also had no luck with trying to reuse the pad sensors. Pelican and Rock Auto both are inexpensive options but I second the options for tying them together. I used heat shrink to seal them.
If you ned help with a parts list please do not hesitate to shoot me a PM with your vin number. I'd be more than happy to get a quote together for you.
As for the sensors, just twist them together and forget them. They complicate brake changes and never in my life have a I ran a pad low enough on any car to trigger a sensor. Simple visual inspections while your washing wheels should clue you in if you're pads look thin.
I just went through a DIY brake change and taking the sensors off was aggravating. I decided to skip them altogether and now I'm getting a brake alarm. Are you suggesting I can put the harnesses back on (working or not) to remove the alarm? Or better yet, put the harness back in and just tie it in a knot?
Indeed. All the sensors do is complete a circuit. From the connector they loop into your brake pad and then back again. If your pad material were to become low enough the rotor would contact the sensor wires, severing them, and cause a brake light indicator.
If you simply remove the sensor, cut the wires down near the connector, twist them together, electrical tape them up, you now have a permanent circuit and never have to deal with the sensors or brake light error again. The ONLY caveat is you now won't be informed when your pad material wears too low. As I said though, one should really be doing this inspection on their own periodically and not let the pads wear down low enough to trigger a sensor anyway.
04-16-2017, 09:06 AM
