tunaahelper

Just stopped by to get a quote on full hood etc. Basically bomb-proofing the car for NW driving. $2000.00. Seems a bit high.. Last vehicle I had done was an Escalade with 1/2 hood/fender, rear rockers, door handles etc for $700.00. Kinda figured that was the "Porsche" price, but thought I'd ask the community..

NOSUB2T

I paid $1800 for mine. Suntek which is better for dark cars.

NOSUB2T

BTW if the guy is good it is a fantastic investment in your car

991carreradriver

3k for the whole car.

R_Rated

Mine was about this. Make sure you get paint correction FIRST though... even if the car is brand new.

tunaahelper

Thanks for the input. The wife's rig turned out pretty good, but I think I'll check some shops in Seattle as well rather than relying on the one in-town shop.

Drtsk

Just got a quote from highly regarded, Glaswerks in NOVA, for $3600 for full frontal coverage Suntek PPF-C, surface and paint correction, and Gyeon MOHS+ over paint work.
The price is insignificant if the work is good.
I'm doing it, but the only thing I don't like is they need the car for 9-11 days.
I guess I'll be driving my BMWs.

Tangerine

Nothwest Auto Salon in Lynwood is among the best in the PNW I think. I think around $3K, depends on what you get done exactly. They cut every piece custom, no computer templates. Film on car, mark with a pen, then tack to a giant wall, cut, put back on the car, wrap every edge where possible.

Read the horror stories in some of the threads. Type of film is much less important than a quality installer. Insist to see examples of their work--any good installer will have projects underway.

StormRune

A reliable place in Austin using SunTek charges $1300 for full hood, nose, full front fenders, and mirrors (maybe a small repeat customer discount included). They recommend not to do the headlights due to potential problems with the film pulling the UV coating off the headlight covers. They do a lot of high end cars and have done the window tint for my last several cars.

I would argue that the type of film is important as well as the installer. I've had a first-hand demo of the self-healing properties of SunTek so that is big plus by me. It helps recover from a scuff if it ever occurs. Heat causes the surface to heal itself (within reason). The demo involved a brass brush scrubbing that 100% disappears after heat is applied. Any SunTek dealer will likely have the demo set-up. You can try it yourself. I have a short video I took that I can post later if you'd like.

R_Rated

I really recommend doing the full rear and not just the shark fins.

StormRune

Here's a link to the SunTek video I mentioned earlier. No affiliation, I just thought it was cool. The film is attached to a small "hood" sample. I scratch it with a wire brush, then reach across and press the "heat" button (simulates the sun or a heat gun).

Tangerine

All the premium films have self-healing properties. Here's an Xpel one:
I'd say the most important things are the skill of the installer AND the approach they use. Many shops use computer cut patterns. They will be "perfect" but the edges will not be wrapped. It's much easier to not wrap the edges.

If having wrapped edges is important to you, make sure to verbally confirm it multiple times when talking to the shop when getting a quote, then put it in writing on the work order. You don't want to get in the situation where the service done was "perfect" but there was a misunderstanding of the expectations of the way it should be applied.

Cheaper shops will absolutely try to talk you out of wrapping the edges--their installers might not have the skill/experience to do it, and it's going to drive up the cost. Be very aware of what you want before going in.

Ski Porsche

Clearbra in SLC, front clip, mirrors, rockers and lower rear bumper for $1,600.

MJG911

1800 for the full front and extended rear rockers/sides

Atlanta Protective Films

ABE992

Check out 503 motoring in Portland. They do excellent work.