991 MSI Wheel Studs Conversion Install (DIY)
#1
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991 MSI Wheel Studs Conversion Install (DIY)
I have a 991 GTS with 5-Lugs, I decided to do wheel studs conversion. As many of your know, the benefits of using studs are: (1) easier to align the wheels during install (2) harder to cross threads (3) less likely to seize up when hot (4) less wear on the wheel hub.
There are many wheel studs out there, but beware as not all wheel studs are created equal. Many have reported broken and bent wheel studs on the track. After hours of research, I chose MSI which is brand of choice by NASCAR and IMSA. If it's good enough for NASCAR, it's good enough for me. It's also made out of Aerospace Grade Chromoly Steel, very strong.
MSI 82.5mm Studs: http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...ts1-detail.htm
Porsche OEM Nuts: http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...gnt-detail.htm
Here's my DIY write up, hope it helps. I assumed everyone knows how to jack the car up properly using a jack pad adapter for Porsche, remove the wheel, and own a torque wrench (or 2 - small and large).
Once the wheel is removed:
(1) Hand tighten the MSI studs, if there's any resistances back it out clean the thread and re-try (never force it in.., Gigadee)
(2) Use the 2 nut method, wrench on the nut closer to the hub and socket with torque wrench on the outer nut. Torque the nuts together at 35 ft-lb. (this torque should always be higher than the torque of the studs)
(3) Torque the stud to 60-70ft-lb (do not apply thread lock, thread lock is cheap insurance by studs manufacturer to avoid getting sued by people who don't know how to use a torque wrench)
(4) Remove the 2 nuts from the 2 nut method (put force on nut closer to the wheel hub clockwise while countering the outer nut from turning to prevent the studs from backing out)
(5) Once all studs are properly torqued, apply a drop of High Temp Copper Anti-Seize about 1/4" from the thread starting point from bullet nose (see photo)
(6) Install the wheels and torque to 95ft-lb (MSI recommends 95ft-lb as these are lubricated torque)
Repeat on 3 more wheels. For the fronts, I didn't have anyone holding the brakes so I used a 2x4 to keep the rotors from spinning.
Fun Weight Facts
MSI Studs and Nuts (20) = 2,260g
OEM Wheel Bolts (20) = 2,000g
Other Fun Random Facts:
Cheers...
There are many wheel studs out there, but beware as not all wheel studs are created equal. Many have reported broken and bent wheel studs on the track. After hours of research, I chose MSI which is brand of choice by NASCAR and IMSA. If it's good enough for NASCAR, it's good enough for me. It's also made out of Aerospace Grade Chromoly Steel, very strong.
MSI 82.5mm Studs: http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...ts1-detail.htm
Porsche OEM Nuts: http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...gnt-detail.htm
Here's my DIY write up, hope it helps. I assumed everyone knows how to jack the car up properly using a jack pad adapter for Porsche, remove the wheel, and own a torque wrench (or 2 - small and large).
Once the wheel is removed:
(1) Hand tighten the MSI studs, if there's any resistances back it out clean the thread and re-try (never force it in.., Gigadee)
(2) Use the 2 nut method, wrench on the nut closer to the hub and socket with torque wrench on the outer nut. Torque the nuts together at 35 ft-lb. (this torque should always be higher than the torque of the studs)
(3) Torque the stud to 60-70ft-lb (do not apply thread lock, thread lock is cheap insurance by studs manufacturer to avoid getting sued by people who don't know how to use a torque wrench)
(4) Remove the 2 nuts from the 2 nut method (put force on nut closer to the wheel hub clockwise while countering the outer nut from turning to prevent the studs from backing out)
(5) Once all studs are properly torqued, apply a drop of High Temp Copper Anti-Seize about 1/4" from the thread starting point from bullet nose (see photo)
(6) Install the wheels and torque to 95ft-lb (MSI recommends 95ft-lb as these are lubricated torque)
Repeat on 3 more wheels. For the fronts, I didn't have anyone holding the brakes so I used a 2x4 to keep the rotors from spinning.
Fun Weight Facts
MSI Studs and Nuts (20) = 2,260g
OEM Wheel Bolts (20) = 2,000g
Other Fun Random Facts:
- 5-Lug GTS with wheel lock kit comes with 5mm spacers
- Porsche spacers are held by Phillips screws
Cheers...
Last edited by Jnosol; 02-19-2017 at 11:00 AM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Jnosol:
edirtaynine (08-23-2020),
KBS911 (10-02-2022)
#2
Nicely Done!
#7
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Thread Starter
By the way, I'm from KC. Not far from you.
82.5mm studs only have 49mm worth of threads. You can use any deep 19mm Impact socket. Example below:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben...FQGOaQodlNsFrA
Last edited by Jnosol; 10-24-2016 at 11:18 AM.
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#9
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#11
Pro
Thread Starter
- Easier to align the wheels
- Harder to cross threads
- Less wear on wheel hub with repeated wheels removal
- Beneficial if using spacers (no need to guess wheel bolt size)
#12
Pro
Thread Starter
This is a public service post regarding Titanium wheel studs and bolts.
There is a misconception that Ti is stronger than steel, it is not. Ti is stronger than steel by weight, not by volume. So unless Ti bolts can be "bigger," it's not stronger than your OEM ones.
Most Ti wheel bolts marketing compare themselves with Grade 5 steel, most approved steel wheel bolts are Grade 10.9. MSI is Chromoly, which is even stronger than 10.9 grade.
So you'll save 1.75lbs total weight (Ti is 45% lighter) by going with Ti bolts, but here's example why you should never use Ti wheel bolts or studs for the track.
YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. NO TRUE RACE CARS EVER USED TI WHEEL FASTENERS.
There is a misconception that Ti is stronger than steel, it is not. Ti is stronger than steel by weight, not by volume. So unless Ti bolts can be "bigger," it's not stronger than your OEM ones.
Most Ti wheel bolts marketing compare themselves with Grade 5 steel, most approved steel wheel bolts are Grade 10.9. MSI is Chromoly, which is even stronger than 10.9 grade.
So you'll save 1.75lbs total weight (Ti is 45% lighter) by going with Ti bolts, but here's example why you should never use Ti wheel bolts or studs for the track.
YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED. NO TRUE RACE CARS EVER USED TI WHEEL FASTENERS.
Last edited by Jnosol; 02-19-2017 at 11:01 AM.
#14
Off topic I know but what color is the OP's car? Just bought a used one with a poor re-spray and have no idea what color it actually is. It appears close if not the color of the OP's.
Thanks
Thanks
#15
Three Wheelin'
In the past i used the longer (92.5mm) for rear and 82.5 in the front. Do you think the 92.5 would have been better for the rear?