FiveRiversGTS

About 100 miles shy of 2K Mark.

Looking forward to my next drive.

So far shifted between 4-5K RPM with only 3-4 Kickdowns. Various usage between Regular, Sport, Sports+ with Vmax at 107. Hopefully I did it right.

Title says it all...
Thanks...

LexVan

You did the right thing.

Wait till you play with the car from 4,500-6,500 rpm.

It's a whole another animal.

Scottish Pete

When using PDK in Sport Plus, which does not shift until redline, you can upshift well before redline manually . . . but the PDk will still want to downshift when the rpm drops below 4,000 rpm or so. Great by yourself on a mountain road but rather surprising at times around town in traffic.
I find Sport Plus much more manageable around town or in traffic with the center shift lever pulled over into manual. That way you control both upshifts and downshifts, but can enjoy the solid "throw your head back" shifts under power.
Just don't forget you have it in manual mode and floor board it expecting a shift at redline . . . you will get an ignition shutoff at redline instead!

CSK 911 C4S

Time to get out of that city you're in and take it up a notch.

Enjoy.

991carreradriver

Agee with LexVan. The recommendation I have is to change your oil and filter. I am old fashioned and believe that break-in generates metal, it is good insurance to change it rather than at the 10k interval. Especially if you are planning on keeping the GTS for a long time.

FiveRiversGTS

Thanks all. The info on this forum is wonderful.
Will definitely try the manual mode shifting soon. First starting with Paddles.

Scheduled my oil change and looking forward to some long scenic drives. Any suggestions for nice routes?

Keep posting the good tips and tricks.

budrichard

My suggestion is a DE Track Day.
The car is capable of serious acceleration and speeds way beyond what our roads and traffic can handle as well as the average driver.
S+ is useless for the Road unless you want to use launch control.
Only use it when on Track.
Rarely use S either on Road.
If you aren't going to Track your car, changing oil is a waste of money until the recommended interval is up..-Richard

chuckbdc

If you have not yet discovered it:
- there is a "kick down" button under the accel pedal that when depressed will shift down to the lowest safe gear and engage warp speed
- tapping the accel pedal smartly (as opposed to flooring it) will cause a one gear downshift, just like using the paddle (or button) or the shift lever

fastdiablo

I was told modern lubricants are so good that changing before 2000 actually prevents breakin. The old fashioned methods simply don't apply because science.

BlackBeauty

If you're manual mode and pull the levers back to neutral - and don't have your foot on the brake, say hypothetically because you're blipping the throttle and you keep it in neutral until the m light starts blinking the only way to get the car back in gear is to put the gear shift over to the right, position it to neutral (even though you're in neutral via the paddle pull), and then put it into drive with your foot on the brake. Otherwise you can't get back into gear.

FiveRiversGTS

Okay that's good to know. I'll test that out.

Few questions as I am new to this:
1) When you say foot on the brake, just a little pressure is enough or do you mean you have to stop?

2) In what circumstances would I need to go to Neutral if the PDK is controlling everything?

TIA

budrichard

"2) In what circumstances would I need to go to Neutral if the PDK is controlling everything?"
In normal driving on Road, never.
"When in a spin, two feet in!"
Adage from an ancient time.
Refers to de clutching and braking simultaneously.
I have yet to spin on Track and have not put this to the test with the PDK.-Richard

FiveRiversGTS

Okay So I am almost there.

Thanx for the info above

@chuckbdc - I found the tapping pedal without flooring, its a nice feature to engage the next gear and then pull some speed!

@BlackBeauty and budrichard - I did paddle pull Neutral in Manual mode, but I was still able to engage the gear back without any braking??? Either way I won't need this.

Previously was driving in Auto (D) mode with paddles just to get used to the car.

I have a specific question now that I drove in the manual mode:
1) Since you are controlling all the shifts, does it make any difference if you push Sports or Sports+ other than to engage the PSE and Sports suspension which you can do anyway with the respective buttons?

Also another question which I posted in the PASM versus SPASM thread:

2) When I push the Suspension button ONLY to engage Sport chassis, I feel a very subtle difference in this car with SPASM, however when I drove the prior car with PASM, I felt a more significant difference with firm stiffness in the chassis. The only thing I can think of is that the car is already firm and relatively stiff to begin with...any explanations, thoughts, comments?

Thanks In Advance. Much appreciated.

worf928

I use paddle neutral at least 50 times every day.

What you describe is not completely correct for any mode. For a Porsche. It is correct for DSG and DCT (and those implementations don't even have paddle-neutral.)

On a Porsche, all you have to do is to activate the brake pedal switch with minimal pressure on the brake pedal. You do not have to mess around with the selector in the console.

If the car is still rolling, you don't even need to have brake pedal pressure.

If you are in paddle-neutral, if you have pressure on the brake pedal, clicking either paddle will engage a gear.

The art is to put just enough pressure on the pedal to trip the switch but not enough pressure to engage more-than-minimal braking force.

FiveRiversGTS

Yes this is what I believe occurred with me when I tested it out. I felt that if I was stopped I have to push the brake, but while moving it engages the same gear wether you shift up or down.

In which scenarios are you using this so often?