Scraped lower front lip
12-13-2015, 11:16 PM
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Scraped lower front lip
Bound to happen. Mine's black plastic and not painted. When I got my car it had a slight scuff on the right corner and coming out of a driveway yesterday I added to it slightly in the center. Doesn't really bother me as it's plastic and I'm thinking I'll just have it replaced periodically when the car's getting serviced. What're your tips for driving a car this low in the real world? Go at an angle on all driveways and go slow?
I'm thinking a small piece of medium grit sandpaper periodically to the bottom edge to keep it from looking ragged might do the trick? Thoughts?
I'm thinking a small piece of medium grit sandpaper periodically to the bottom edge to keep it from looking ragged might do the trick? Thoughts?
12-14-2015, 12:54 AM
#4
Race Director
Originally Posted by titleistaddict87
Geezus. I'd be scared to go over anything with a painted lip. Bold move!
Want to live more dangerously, get SPASM with a Sport Design bumper.
Really, nothing to worry about.
12-14-2015, 05:29 AM
#5
Pro
Yeah. They only cost approximately $200.00 and you can replace them your self in fifteen minutes. Enjoy the ride.
12-14-2015, 08:14 AM
#6
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12-14-2015, 09:10 AM
#7
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12-14-2015, 09:20 AM
#8
Race Car
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Get into the world of microfine sandpapers, the grits 600, 1200, 1500 and 2000 . I have repaired so many spoiler lips - especially on my Aston Martin - that I'm quite good at it now. Start with your basic hardware store grits and sand the gouges smooth. When you get to 400 grit, grab a pail of water and start with wet sanding. As soon as its smooth, move to a higher grit - all wet sanding, never dry. At the 1200 grit level you are at a prep stage level and stop there if you are going to paint it (you can do it quite well with rattle can touch up paint and clear coat). Tape it off, shoot it and you're done until the next prang. If you are staying with black plastic, work it to wet 1500 grit and then finally 2000 grit. After the 2000 grit, grab some liquid plastic polish and give it what-for. When you are done it will look factory fresh. Microfine grits are amazing at reconditioning ABS plastic parts - but not many explore into them.
When you see those show car finishes that look like colored water, those are wet sanded high grit paint jobs. In fact all your Astons, Rolls and Bentleys come from the factory with a hand-done wet-sanded paint job, its why the finish looks so good.
When you see those show car finishes that look like colored water, those are wet sanded high grit paint jobs. In fact all your Astons, Rolls and Bentleys come from the factory with a hand-done wet-sanded paint job, its why the finish looks so good.
12-14-2015, 01:47 PM
#9
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Get into the world of microfine sandpapers, the grits 600, 1200, 1500 and 2000 . I have repaired so many spoiler lips - especially on my Aston Martin - that I'm quite good at it now. Start with your basic hardware store grits and sand the gouges smooth. When you get to 400 grit, grab a pail of water and start with wet sanding. As soon as its smooth, move to a higher grit - all wet sanding, never dry. At the 1200 grit level you are at a prep stage level and stop there if you are going to paint it (you can do it quite well with rattle can touch up paint and clear coat). Tape it off, shoot it and you're done until the next prang. If you are staying with black plastic, work it to wet 1500 grit and then finally 2000 grit. After the 2000 grit, grab some liquid plastic polish and give it what-for. When you are done it will look factory fresh. Microfine grits are amazing at reconditioning ABS plastic parts - but not many explore into them.
When you see those show car finishes that look like colored water, those are wet sanded high grit paint jobs. In fact all your Astons, Rolls and Bentleys come from the factory with a hand-done wet-sanded paint job, its why the finish looks so good.
When you see those show car finishes that look like colored water, those are wet sanded high grit paint jobs. In fact all your Astons, Rolls and Bentleys come from the factory with a hand-done wet-sanded paint job, its why the finish looks so good.
12-14-2015, 02:54 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
12-14-2015, 02:55 PM
#11
Race Director
Originally Posted by CSK 911 C4S
I usually come up with a tip after I just scratched the heck out of the lip. Sport Designed Sport PASM here. 
Isn't that the truth. Always clearer hindsight!
Although, I've only scraped underneath and not visible at eye level. Have two painted ones on reserve.
12-14-2015, 03:35 PM
#12
I've had very good luck with both ISC Helicopter Surface Guard Tape and ISC Racerstape. Both come in transparent and are expensive but cheaper than replacing the lip or painting it. Available on ebay and amazon.
12-14-2015, 04:03 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
I think if I have to replace at some point in time I might just plastic dip the replacement or sticker bomb it
12-14-2015, 04:22 PM
#14
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
So my thought is get things sanded down and then put this on the bottom edge of the plastic lip? With the tape on will it get less eaten up with parking bumpers, etc?
12-14-2015, 04:30 PM
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