Money2536

My Chuck shout-out at 1:52.

Vise

For the lazy man's approach follow the advice mentioned earlier... find a good detailer, have them do a full paint correction (including Opticoat or similar treatment) and then two bucket wash with quality supplies on a regular basis. Piece of cake and likely less expensive than purchasing the gear and spending the time yourself. Finding a high quality detailer is the key though.

I have my guy do a spring/fall detail on our cars and then I maintain in between... my GTS will be in for the full new car prep/Opticoat Pro a couple days after pickup. Just trying to figure out what I'm going to do for paint protection film as well...

STG

These posts have cracked me up more than any other one I've ever read! I've been laughing all day.

I'm picturing this whole group sitting at a bar over some beers arguing about this stuff with Chuck in the middle.

Bleek

Flat out stunning wheels. Really completes the car. Extra touches are killer!

STG

Thanks a lot!

STG

I'm still dying over the 4×2 = 8

wanderfalke

[QUOTE=STG991;11874348]Close to the dark clear. I had them custom powder coated. Did the aluminum billet center caps, air nozzles, and tail pipes too.

The finish on the tail pipes is a smoked powder coat? Were they hard clean prior to coating? I like the look and would like to give the powder coat a try. Tech art has some tips that have a gun barrel blueing finish that is also appealing. I better get back on topic v v v v

wanderfalke

I do not think It is necessary to remove every slight imperfection every time you clay your car. If you are teaching yourself, get the darn thing clean and clay bar the finish. Use the finest polish possible in combination with the most gentle random orbit you can get your hands on and keep it moving without applying pressure. For me it is the cyclo machine. After all you are not removing swirl marks as much as grinding off clear coat. Stay away from the creases and edges, you can dig deeper later but you can not put clear coat back on. Somewhere down the line the rock chips will make you look at the car from several feet instead of several inches. My agate C4S has hundreds of very tiny grit chips in front of the rear hips and above the rocker panels from sizzle grit that the front tires blast up onto the lower sides (especially during turns). Paint perfection is battle I can not win if I am going to drive the 911. The hood and windshield are magnets for rock chips that drill down into the primer or worse, all of my machines are not going to make that go away. Having said that I still feel the pain each time I wax and find new damage.

Homeles

See Chuck's active on other threads. Guess he got called on this one and checked out! lol