Battery trickle charger
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MotoDC (12-26-2023)
#17
Put mine on the stud attached to the positive post (as per sensei_tts picture)and onto the negative battery terminal connector. I did not need to undo the negative connector on the battery/remove it as there was sufficient thread on the end to put the Ctek connector and add an M6 nut (same as the one I used on the positive post), so no need to enlarge the Ctek fitting. All working fine (Ctek Lithium XS charger on Lithium Battery) and I have the MagCode connector with cover fitted up the front of the car so that I can easily connect/disconnect without any problems (see post by clooloss). In fact I have fitted these to all the cars and they work perfectly without issue.
#18
2017 C2S... I use the "optional" smoking package cigarette lighter receptacle near the rear of the center console. When the car is in my home garage, I use the Porsche [CTEK] maintenance charger which works well except if you have a power supply outage to the charger, it doesn't automatically resume its work; it has to be manually reset each time.
When my car is in an offsite storage garage, I use a different CTEK charger MXS 5.0 [Model 1090 on the side panel] which externally is the same size and overall shape as the Porsche branded item, but this one "remembers" the settings that you last chose and does automatically reset when there's an interruption in the power supply grid, which is a very common occurrence in my area [NE Ohio].
I like the idea of having the charger cord enter the driver's door and being connected to the cigarette lighter receptacle because it makes it obvious that you need to disconnect the charger before driving the car.
When my car is in an offsite storage garage, I use a different CTEK charger MXS 5.0 [Model 1090 on the side panel] which externally is the same size and overall shape as the Porsche branded item, but this one "remembers" the settings that you last chose and does automatically reset when there's an interruption in the power supply grid, which is a very common occurrence in my area [NE Ohio].
I like the idea of having the charger cord enter the driver's door and being connected to the cigarette lighter receptacle because it makes it obvious that you need to disconnect the charger before driving the car.
Last edited by DR911s; 09-19-2023 at 12:49 PM. Reason: add text
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mamsp (09-18-2023)
#19
Tell me more about this setup I have a noco genius 5
#20
Its a very easy fit. There are loads of suppliers out there and the prices vary, but here is a link that gives some information: https://www.rosenberger.com/product/magcode/ In essense there are two versions, one that twists about 1/3 of a turn (pro version I think) which is rated higher - I have one of these fitted to one of the cars, and there is the standard version rated at 15a. Basically they are coded to magnetically make a connection when the two parts are brought together. I have added hard wiring (fused at the battery positive terminal) from the battery to the car charger port (on my Turbo S I put that under the number plate area to the right [facing the car] in the vent grill) - so its mounted horizontally (similar to the rosenberger top picture). As I have several Ctek kits, I chopped the crocodile clips off one set and wired it to the power clip (again very easy to do, just make sure to observe the +/- poles).
Then coupling/uncoupling the charger is a simple matter of turning it off/on and removing or attaching the magnetic connector. In the event you pull away having forgotten it, the magnetic parts separate with no damage. I also fit the cover on mine to protect them from road grime. A slight disadvantage of the pro is that it does not separate as readily if you drive off with it connected (guess how I know!).
Then coupling/uncoupling the charger is a simple matter of turning it off/on and removing or attaching the magnetic connector. In the event you pull away having forgotten it, the magnetic parts separate with no damage. I also fit the cover on mine to protect them from road grime. A slight disadvantage of the pro is that it does not separate as readily if you drive off with it connected (guess how I know!).
Last edited by Noslek; 09-19-2023 at 05:46 AM.
#22
Its a very easy fit. There are loads of suppliers out there and the prices vary, but here is a link that gives some information: https://www.rosenberger.com/product/magcode/ In essense there are two versions, one that twists about 1/3 of a turn (pro version I think) which is rated higher - I have one of these fitted to one of the cars, and there is the standard version rated at 15a. Basically they are coded to magnetically make a connection when the two parts are brought together. I have added hard wiring (fused at the battery positive terminal) from the battery to the car charger port (on my Turbo S I put that under the number plate area to the right [facing the car] in the vent grill) - so its mounted horizontally (similar to the rosenberger top picture). As I have several Ctek kits, I chopped the crocodile clips off one set and wired it to the power clip (again very easy to do, just make sure to observe the +/- poles).
Then coupling/uncoupling the charger is a simple matter of turning it off/on and removing or attaching the magnetic connector. In the event you pull away having forgotten it, the magnetic parts separate with no damage. I also fit the cover on mine to protect them from road grime. A slight disadvantage of the pro is that it does not separate as readily if you drive off with it connected (guess how I know!).
Then coupling/uncoupling the charger is a simple matter of turning it off/on and removing or attaching the magnetic connector. In the event you pull away having forgotten it, the magnetic parts separate with no damage. I also fit the cover on mine to protect them from road grime. A slight disadvantage of the pro is that it does not separate as readily if you drive off with it connected (guess how I know!).
So you connected a couple leads to these ends here:
With crimps I assume? From those leads to the battery using eyelits at the other end.
How did you connect this to the batter charger? Is there some sort of simple connection (screw type) that you connected then applied shrink wrap to?
#23
Clean design. Just to confirm, which specific one did you buy? Seems to be several https://www.digikey.ca/en/product-hi...ic-connections
So you connected a couple leads to these ends here:
With crimps I assume? From those leads to the battery using eyelits at the other end.
How did you connect this to the batter charger? Is there some sort of simple connection (screw type) that you connected then applied shrink wrap to?
So you connected a couple leads to these ends here:
With crimps I assume? From those leads to the battery using eyelits at the other end.
How did you connect this to the batter charger? Is there some sort of simple connection (screw type) that you connected then applied shrink wrap to?
#24
Clean design. Just to confirm, which specific one did you buy? Seems to be several https://www.digikey.ca/en/product-hi...ic-connections
So you connected a couple leads to these ends here:
With crimps I assume? From those leads to the battery using eyelits at the other end.
How did you connect this to the batter charger? Is there some sort of simple connection (screw type) that you connected then applied shrink wrap to?
So you connected a couple leads to these ends here:
With crimps I assume? From those leads to the battery using eyelits at the other end.
How did you connect this to the batter charger? Is there some sort of simple connection (screw type) that you connected then applied shrink wrap to?
#26
Quick question. Going to put the eyelits on today. Any precautions I need to take? Ie any risk as I unscrew the nuts, place the eyelits on and screw the nuts back on or specific order (start with positive terminal as you would when jump starting a car for instance)?
#28
I believe I did positive first.
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pbcsd (01-20-2024)
#29
Good advice. I did the same as I wasn’t going to try to force the nuts off.
Cut a tiny segment out of the loop so you can slip the post thru it. Cut less than you think you need because you can bend it a bit, very soft metal.
Cut a tiny segment out of the loop so you can slip the post thru it. Cut less than you think you need because you can bend it a bit, very soft metal.
#30
No need to force anything because that usually screws things up and you end up with buggered threads. I like using the ring terminals instead of spade terminals, so I slowly filed the end of the "staked" threaded fastener so that the nut comes off easily. More work, but its done right.