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Has anyone lowered the rear perch on stock 10mm pasm?
Is there any ill effect by reducing the current rake?
Thinking of doing this primarily for aesthetics but can’t find info on doing it without also adding lowering springs .
The change will be minor and the only side effects I can think of is that is slightly reduces pre-load on the spring, which also contribute to the drop in ride height. It may also slightly shift weight distribution, but again, with such a small adjustment I don't even think you'll notice a difference.
The change will be minor and the only side effects I can think of is that is slightly reduces pre-load on the spring, which also contribute to the drop in ride height. It may also slightly shift weight distribution, but again, with such a small adjustment I don't even think you'll notice a difference.
Thanks - D you know what the adjustment range is? I figured less preload would be the opposite of lower height and the drop would be from perch setting . I’m assuming the perch moves downward to lower the car , no?
From what I’ve seen the spring seat has several static positions .
You are correct, as it is to adjust the proper preload on the spring based on the chassis and what suspension option you have, as you can see here:
So while you "could" manipulate this perch, the hassle of getting to it to decompress the spring you might as well just get a properly sorted spring kit or coilovers. Sorry, the cheap way just isn't the good way.
So while you "could" manipulate this perch, the hassle of getting to it to decompress the spring you might as well just get a properly sorted spring kit or coilovers. Sorry, the cheap way just isn't the good way.
Based on what I’ve learned , I’ve drawn this conclusion as well. Just wanted something to hold me over in the interim.
My last non pasm car had Ohlins r&t which was great, but now I’m apprehensive about giving up the newly acquired pasm. The bilstein damptronics seem to solve for that, but I don’t know enough about what is sacrificed , or not to go that route (that is , is pasm really that important ). I do know I’m fond of independent ride height adjustment, which the damptronics appear to lack.
Based on what I’ve learned , I’ve drawn this conclusion as well. Just wanted something to hold me over in the interim.
My last non pasm car had Ohlins r&t which was great, but now I’m apprehensive about giving up the newly acquired pasm. The bilstein damptronics seem to solve for that, but I don’t know enough about what is sacrificed , or not to go that route (that is , is pasm really that important ). I do know I’m fond of independent ride height adjustment, which the damptronics appear to lack.
Decisions , Decisions.
From personal experience, I would say the Ohlins ride better, thus negating the need for PASM. No need to switch modes as its good enough all of the time. Plus, you can set preload and ride separately AND still have dampening adjustment manually. Dial it in to whatever setting you want. Just my $0.02
From personal experience, I would say the Ohlins ride better, thus negating the need for PASM. No need to switch modes as it’s good enough all of the time. Plus, you can set preload and ride separately AND still have dampening adjustment manually. Dial it in to whatever setting you want. Just my $0.02
That’s good feedback. Where are the damping adjusters located? On my cayman they were under the car , which meant they were set to 10 never to be seen again.
I have ohlins on my F80 M3 that had active suspension and they are light years better than the BMW active suspesnion on the F8X generation and tuned much better for road and track than the SPASM I had on my 991.
I have tractives on my 991 now, and those are the gold standard IMO for a road and track car.
BUT I never spring tuned (tried different spring rates) on my stock SPASM dampers. I am hearing that works well. I have done a ton of spring tuning on my tractives as well as the DSC to really tune my ride.
I have ohlins on my F80 M3 that had active suspension and they are light years better than the BMW active suspesnion on the F8X generation and tuned much better for road and track than the SPASM I had on my 991.
I have tractives on my 991 now, and those are the gold standard IMO for a road and track car.
BUT I never spring tuned (tried different spring rates) on my stock SPASM dampers. I am hearing that works well. I have done a ton of spring tuning on my tractives as well as the DSC to really tune my ride.
I’ve never been happy with OTB ride height from the aftermarket - too many variables can impact actual height/stance , and fine tuning is a must. So a coil over with independent height adjustment is a required for me vs just springs, or preload impacting height adjustment.
Tractive looks intriguing / and I love the tech , but seems to be diminishing returns for my use case at the price. It’s bad enough the ohlins for the 911 almost cost twice as much as I got for the 718 😩. yeah
That’s good feedback. Where are the damping adjusters located? On my cayman they were under the car , which meant they were set to 10 never to be seen again.
On the front, they are underneath, but not hard to reach. The rears are on top and have remote cable to adjust without removing trim.
Nice! I am really happy with the Ohlins on my 991. I had Bilstein, had Bilstein with upgraded springs, now fully satisfied with the Ohlins.
Got it installed now to dial It in. Haven’t had a real drive yet on the b roads, but I set 10 all around like my cayman. Driving to lowes I wasn’t happy with it. A tad bouncy and a bit harsh (maybe needs to break in?)
What settings did you end up going with on the street?
PS this is one of the easier suspension swaps I’ve done. Worlds easier than the 718. I did learn the zip tie trick on here to compress springs on the car, this is a trick I wish I knew worlds ago.
Credit to the flat 6 video diy, I used theirs on my cayman as well and both seemed to be path of least resistance.
Last edited by LordDRIFT; May 8, 2025 at 02:21 PM.