High Mileage 4S
Trenton O. Gibson
tgibson@highline-autos.com
Highline Autos
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1)Have a PPI done by an independent mechanic and a paint meter reading on all quarters. (Dealers like this sell a lot of glued back together auction crap)
2) go drive the car yourself before you mentally commit following the PPI.
To people who say don't worry about PPIs. 90% of car dealers are lazy individuals. They buy stuff from auction and will be out of business in 5 years. Buying a car from any dealer without a PPI (including a Porsche dealer) is the equivalent of not using a rubber with a prostitute.
why not go for something like this ? its a nice spec with 75% less miles . as someone who cheaped out on my previous car, a BMW M4 take it from me DONT DO IT ! if you cant afford a decent example of the car your looking at dont just run and get the cheapest most clapped one on the market
Link to auction
Last edited by DWRS4; Mar 21, 2025 at 12:04 AM.
The Best Porsche Posts for Porsche Enthusiasts
But here it goes!
Interior:
Will rattle. Prob every 911 rattles lol not gonna lie.
Your sunroof (if you have one) might even just get stuck.
Exterior:
Paint will be slightly rough
The plastic trim pieces will be slightly faded. A 30k garaged one looks like the plastic is off the lot (black and shiny).
Scrapes underneath. It happens even with stock suspension.
Windshield washer hose might crack over the years. Easy $50
Headlight lenses will be a little scuffed. That needs replacing for sure. It looks ugly.
Suspension:
Probably worn out at this point, it's a performance car driven hard.
Check shocks & bushings. Go get yourself coilovers!
I'll put this here too but C4s have a front axle, and they steer. Check to see if they have cracks in the boots.
Mechanical: This one during my ownership is a BIG one for performance.
PDK Clutch Fluid & Oil. If this hasn't been done it's obvious, the car shifts terrible, especially when cold.
Motor mounts. You have active motor mounts that's big money. At 100k, I replaced my non active motor mounts. Big change in handling - cars feels like it was made in one piece.
P24D6 - Evap line. Known to fail apparently, I have one too. It's emissions related, cost big money, but doesn't affect anything. $300 for part, probably $2k for service.
Spark plugs - Every often. It's a turbo car! The change is very obvious when you're idling. Super smooth. Kinda involved job.
Coolant reservoir leaked - Known to leak. Mine leaked @ 97k mi. DIY it. Get a vacuum bleeder.
Radiator - For some reason my right radiator popped. The end tanks are glued with resin, mine simply cracked I think. Replaced with CSF. This one is DIYable.
Air filter, serpentine belt, belt tensioner - just general stuff.
AC Condenser - I don't have mine replaced but things get in there and it bends the metal pieces. Mine looks decent. Get a grill before you have to replace both.
Water pump - don't worry about this one, it's probably replaced. You have a 120k mi/10yr warranty.
Oil changes - Regular oil changes as always. Max 5k mi tbh. I can feel the difference between old and new oil at that mileage.
Vacuum leaks - This one I haven't experienced myself. Knock on wood - but I heard those vacuum COV valves can leak. They are DEEP in there. I know one that failed at 60k miles.
Air oil separator - Not experienced, known to happen as well. If i get this I'd bundle it up with the EVAP tbh.
Anyway if you can DIY half these jobs you'd probably save a ton of money. Dealer will charge an arm and a leg, indy maybe half that. But most of these that I've listed out are what I did & found in my 104k mile porsche now. Honestly past like maybe 60k miles and without CPO, you might as well buy whatever mileage car you can, and the options you like. Eventually you'll get these issues. Luckily, the car is made out of torx and hex nuts and bolts. I'd also get a PPI, and get how many miles vs how many hours the ECU was running. Hope that doesn't discourage you. I also drive 12k miles a year on the .2, and drive it hard all day.
I am looking to get into a 991.2 and saw this one listed for sale in Nashville. It basically (1) owner out of California and was maintained very well and up to spec, that being said it is over 100k Miles and wanted to get folks experience here.
Here is the listing: (LINK)
I would only drive 2-3k miles most a year and would love to hear everyone(s) thoughts.
I bought the car to daily to my office in DC from my home in Annapolis, so I’ve put 15k miles on it since I purchased it a year ago. I change the oil every 3k, and had the trans serviced at 117k, just as a precaution. Recently, I did coils and plugs, pads and rotors, and replaced the coolant overflow tank, but these are just maintenance items, IMO.
Bottom line is, if the car has been properly serviced and maintained, there’s no reason not to consider a higher mileage car. Frankly, I’d prefer a car with higher mileage, as it means it has been a) driven b) serviced, and c) all the things that might go wrong, has already been fixed.
I fully expect to drive this car 200k miles or more, and have no reason to think I can’t. Granted, I am a car guy (I’ve owned 65), and have my own shop, and I do my own work, so working on these doesn’t intimidate me. Will things break? Yes. Is that a huge problem? IMO, no. YMMV
Last edited by Rob Blumel; Mar 29, 2025 at 09:26 AM.
Link to auction
Add lists Primary Damage: Flood
BTW car sold in this auction for 45K. Probably a lot closer to what its worth. Not nearly $69K.
I think you'd have to be nuts to buy this car unless you are going to strip it and part it out.
I'm probably in the minority of Porsche owners that actually prefer a car that's been driven and maintained over a car that's been sitting and ignored. A lot of horror stories out there of garage queens with dry rotted gaskets and seals.






