Had a bilstein b16 order. They took 4 months to tell me it'll take 2 more months. So decided to ordered elec-tron R1s instead. Quite a price difference but we'll see how they go.

I poked two dealers about the tractives, and the nitrons. The price on the nitrons that I got quoted for were the same, but the tractives were different. Delta of about $3k for the same exact spec tractive touring. Not sure what's up with that one, but decided to go with the nitrons. They were slightly more expensive than the tractive tourings but did include camber plates and top mounts along with the set. Also free shipping for december orders lol! Winner!
Not to mention that the nitrons also offer a hydraulic FAL for their suspension, and it self bleeds itself too.

As far as the pricing goes, I think that the nitrons are cheaper in general because of the way they're manufactured. Their system seems to be more modular thus high production rate and ends up being cheaper. Nitron has already started to penetrate the US market, they've recently just made a factory in CA as well. I've seen videos of the tour and they have a lot of hardware.

 

Any update on the Nitron elec-trons? There are a few of us who are really interested but do not want to be the test guinea pig, LOL. Who did you end up ordering through? In my conversations with the Nitron US dealers they have strongly nudged to go with the mechanical R1s over the elec-trons.

 

Hey!
I received the eR1s last week Thursday. Unfortunately, I don't have the time to install them this week since it's snowing, and my car isn't prepped for snow lol
I'll update as soon as the weather warms up to at least 50f+ again later this february (hopefully)

I ordered the elec-tron version since I do want to take advantage of the dynamics of the DSC controller. But from what I've been told, the electrons just have "more range" in their damping because they can adjust on the fly. It's a nice to have. If its full on a track car most of the time, I'd probably go for the R3 non-electron version. However mine is a mixed use case, and I've decided to go for 8k springs up front and 14k rear springs. The box also did not come instructions (or I just couldn't find it) but the install seems self explanatory. Spring and rest of the hardware is already installed (aside from camber plate), and the preload set to 0/close to negative, so all you really have to do is plop it in. As far as software goes, I had messaged someone from Nitron who mentioned that he will come up with a basic DSC tune setup for me. There are a few changes there such as the max amps the shocks can handle. As far as it goes the stock DSC tune is already pretty good and dynamic but we'll see.

 

Does the documentation that comes with the eR1 tell you what the max and min amps for full soft and full hard are? Or are you going to have to guess at that?

 

Good question, I had to double check the package but there is no installation documentation. Only documentation for who checked/tuned your shocks, a few stickers, and a manual on how to adjust preload, etc..

I read this on their instagram (lol) page, but the max amps is 1800mA I believe. I will most likely email them again, once the shocks are installed.

 

Yeah - that's going to be important to get both the max and the min so that you can properly set the shock calibration in the DSC controller if you're using the DSC controller as opposed to the Nitron controller.

Also, out of curiosity - when you say 8k springs up front and 16k springs in the rear, what measurement are you using there? Can't be N/mm or lb/in, right? Or, in the words of @4 Point 0 , "what are your spring rates"

 

I ordered from Inertia Laboratories and was suggested a higher spring rate for the track but I wasn't sure exactly how comfortable I would be driving it in the street so I started with 80n/mm front and 140n/mm, 16k was a typo woops. The shocks also came with 20nm tender springs. The springs I believe are 60mm ID, 160mm tall + 40mm H&R tender springs if that helps. There's roughly 35mm of thread. Now I cant say for sure and my math is terrible, but I think that's enough preload for stock SPASM ride height.

 

What higher spring rates did Inertia suggest? Just curious.

 

Apologies, my previous comment was not clear. They only mentioned that the bare minimum if the car sees the track is 80f, 140r and implied that it might still be soft. And I agree it probably is still soft for the track.

 

Don’t do it man.

I started at 75/150. (Very close to 80/140) It’s no good. Its an old spec that doesn’t work with our 991.2 Chassis.

100/150 much better.

I suggest instead of 80/140, you up the front to 100, giving you 100/140. Its a far nicer and more balanced setup for these cars.

If you track with 80/140 you will loose drive out of the corners and just light the rear end up.


Here’s the kicker. 100/150 felt more comfy than 75/150.

The front end is a free ride at these levels. You will feel no stiffer at 100/140 than 80/140, but your handling will be far superior. With both setups you only feel the 140. So you may as well get the handling bump with 100 up front. .

 

Gotcha, good thing the front is easy to do! Nitron does look like they also sell the springs too. As Ive already received the springs, I’ll likely try out and see if they’re comfortable and go from there.

Do you feel that the car at those rates are unloading the rear/pitching? What tires were you running?

 

Not that @4 Point 0 is wrong with regards to spring rates, but your 80/140 rate is pretty in line with the majority of coilover manufacturers opinion on what spring rates for our cars should be. For instance Ohlins is 70/140, Bilstein 50/120, Bilstein Clubsport 90/160… stock GT3 is 45/120

If your car is mostly a street car, you may find yourself plenty happy with what they set you up with

I would reach out to DSC Sport direct, they have experience with settings for Nitron coilovers.

 

This is all old, outdated thinking.

Technology has moved on. All of the GT’s are minimum 100/160 now and the new GT3-RS is another 50% stiffer than that front and rear.

Manufacturers set cars up to understeer because someone thought it os safer to see what you hit. (Its safer to moss it all together IMHO)

Hitting bumps at 80/140 is rubbish. The front hits the bump and is flopping around. The a moment later the rear hits the bump with a thud and then stops almost immediately, whilst the front end is still flopping around. That is not indicative of good handling. It also feel like rubbish.

100/140 is a lot closer to both ends settling at the same time, which is indicative of not just great handling, but also it feels smoother and thereby more comfortable.

I was just trying to give the genuine pig a fighting chance. I’ll let him and his wallet go through the full pain and expense of discovery.

 

Wow, they are blocking my replies.

 

#free4point0