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I'm sure you are just a magnificent DIYer and the rest of us are just losers.
Could be, but then I am just like the rest of you and wondering how the eff people are screwing these drain plugs up, how the eff they are snapping spark plugs off at the base, how the eff they manage to screw anything up. If that is the case, maybe try golf. Have they never worked on anything else in the past. How the eff is my original 2015 drain plug still fine...please explain that, I am all ears! Just torquing it using a quality torque wrench (Snap-On, Precision Instruments) to spec.
Could be, but then I am just like the rest of you and wondering how the eff people are screwing these drain plugs up, how the eff they are snapping spark plugs off at the base, how the eff they manage to screw anything up. If that is the case, maybe try golf. Have they never worked on anything else in the past. How the eff is my original 2015 drain plug still fine...please explain that, I am all ears! Just torquing it using a quality torque wrench (Snap-On, Precision Instruments) to spec.
Me thinkst you are being a tad too hard on your fellow DIYer. People make mistakes not matter how careful they try to be. I have broken off a bunch of tabs trying to be extra care. Making mistakes is part of life. I never stripped an oil plug, but it was never pristine or looked like new after an oil change.
Me thinkst you are being a tad too hard on your fellow DIYer.
I don't think so, but I'd love to be a fly on the wall to see how these "mistakes" aka disasters can even happen. After all, nothing could be simpler than removing an engine oil drain plug that is out in the open.
Now if some clown reinstalled an engine oil drain plug with an already damaged "hex", what do you think is going to happen the next time you try to remove it...well duhhh. That is why I keep a spare factory drain plug that I never had a chance to use. Mind you, I used it on a friend's 997 because some clown totally screwed up his drain plug where I needed a chisel to remove it.
Me thinkst you are being a tad too hard on your fellow DIYer. People make mistakes not matter how careful they try to be. I have broken off a bunch of tabs trying to be extra care. Making mistakes is part of life. I never stripped an oil plug, but it was never pristine or looked like new after an oil change.
why the effff would you think that? You think he doesn't know better than every other m effffer out there? Clearly he's the baddest efffer on the planet when it comes to diy. The rest of us are just efffffing clowns.
why the effff would you think that? You think he doesn't know better than every other m effffer out there? Clearly he's the baddest efffer on the planet when it comes to diy. The rest of us are just efffffing clowns.
Some people have thin skins. Maybe many DIYers of which some have no effing clue as to what they are doing, should take up anotner hobby, gardening maybe.
Just had this saga myself, previous oil change was at the dealer. Drain plug was in there insanely tight, 8mm hex rounded it out when I tried to remove. Ez-out didn't work. Finally cut a slot with the dremel and used a chisel to hammer it counter-clockwise and got it out.
Upon removal, no crush washer either. Maybe that's why the dealer put it on so tight?!
It looks like there is a crush washer stuck in the drain plug hole in the oil pan, but I think that's just a machined surface before the threads start? I gently tried to remove it with a pick but it won't budge.
Just had this saga myself, previous oil change was at the dealer.
Provided you have the "skills" and the "feel", stop taking your car to a dealer or independent. Probably why I still have the original drain plug in my 2015.
Originally Posted by vincenz0
Upon removal, no crush washer either. Maybe that's why the dealer put it on so tight?!
It looks like there is a crush washer stuck in the drain plug hole in the oil pan, but I think that's just a machined surface before the threads start? I gently tried to remove it with a pick but it won't budge.
Are you sure? The aluminum drain plug seal can and tends to stick to the oil pan. You should see a step at the joint...the edge of the aluminum drain plug seal. Without that aluminum drain plug seal, it will leak. And re-using a seal work-hardens it as well which is why people compensate by over-tightening. You know, clowns to the left of us, jokers to the right.
By the way, I have that same SKS in my spare oil drain plug that I never got to use.
@IXLR8 Well, for reference I was looking at this pic on Pelican Parts, and see the silver ring inside the plug hole? Mine looks the same as that. Except I nicked the edge slightly trying to remove it with a pick. It definitely won't budge so unless the dealership really hammered it in there (which is possible) I think it's part of the oil pan?
Ironically, this just happened to me as well. My local dealer, who are overall good, kept reusing the an older drain plug. I found it to be seriously over-torqued.
About 50% of the issue here is not getting the 8mm drive bit fully in the plug before attempting to turn it. A lot of folks offered fairly invasive techniques to remove it. At the end of the day, it took an incredible amount of patience and feel to insert the 8mm drive by hand, deeper into the drain plug.
Finally got it and the oil pan threads themselves were still great. Thankfully, I had ordered a new drain plug and crush washer. From this experience, I now have three new extra drain plugs and crush washers ready to go.
As many have said, the 991 oil change is worthy DIY and keeps you from overpaying the dealer for potentially substandard work.
So closer inspection today and definitely no crush washer to be found. Inside the drain plug hole is a mating surface that looks machined rather than cast, and wiping away all the oil there is no gap along the outside edge of it so it must be part of the pan.
Stopped by the dealer today to share the feedback. They asked to keep the old plug and said they'd talk to the tech who worked on the car and get back to me.
So closer inspection today and definitely no crush washer to be found. Inside the drain plug hole is a mating surface that looks machined rather than cast, and wiping away all the oil there is no gap along the outside edge of it so it must be part of the pan.
Stopped by the dealer today to share the feedback. They asked to keep the old plug and said they'd talk to the tech who worked on the car and get back to me.
So closer inspection today and definitely no crush washer to be found. Inside the drain plug hole is a mating surface that looks machined rather than cast, and wiping away all the oil there is no gap along the outside edge of it so it must be part of the pan.
Yes it is all part of the pan and the pan is a casting with the threads and the sealing surface (the part that the aluminum sealing ring mates against) are machined. You need a smooth surface for the aluminum sealing ring to butt against. And of course both are machined together for both to be "true" to each other.
I am very surprised your pan had no oil residue (or did it) due to no aluminum sealing washer being installed there. I know after I install my drain plug with a new aluminum sealing washer and it is torqued to spec (37 lbf.ft.), I might have the odd oil drip hanging off the drain plug after a few days...and that is with an aluminum sealing washer. I just loosen it and re-torque it and that takes care of it.