No oil in mine, it was dry. That actually looks like it could be coming from your AOS - the return hose connects back into the plenum. some oil is normal but I think yours shows a bit more than I'd think is normal. Do you consume more than average amount of oil? I'd disconnect the return hose from the plenum side and put a finger in it - see how much oil is there. a little is normal but if there are pools I'd look into a new AOS. Also, check that hose as it is a hard brittle ribbed plastic "hose" and I found mine had a slight crack. Changing it was annoying, I had to drop the engine a few inches and while there I changed the MAP sensor as you can't get to it without lowering the engine. Did you also check your air filters while you were there? Perhaps there's some issue with them? is the hissing definitely engine generated and not some hanging aero-affected part just catching wind?

 

See it’s had a new aos in August as well as 6 year service which included new air filters, I can swear that the hissing only started after an airbox cov was changed, I did the tb because I didn’t have the patience to wait until the end of Jan for the next service booking, but given that there’s further issues and oil in my tb and I’ve got a warranty, I’m fighting with my self as to whether I can wait until the end of Jan or just start doing what makes logical sense, but definitely don’t have the drive to start changing parts I’ve just paid to have done 4 months ago.

first world problems but really annoying when it’s my daily driver 😠

Thanks again for your help!

 

It could be residual oil in the return pipe from the previous AOS just lingering, or the new AOS is faulty, or something else altogether. If it's under warranty, I'd share the concern with them and have them fix it - it's the downtime that would give me pause in taking it in. Plus, I really do not trust the techs and advisors very much, they seem to be reading a script and "aren't aware" of issues that seem to pop up here on Rennlist frequently. I admit I'm jaded but the word professional has lost its meaning to me. The COV that controls the symposer is certainly a possibility, and there's another flap in the airbox that's controlled by another COV right next to it - both clipped onto the airbox, perhaps switch them around? Do you notice if the symposer actually works when you hit sport? What year is the car? The old version COVs seem to have high rate of failure.

 

Yeah waiting 2 months and then losing the car for two weeks for them to send the car back worse than before is my biggest concern and I’ve already done it once. I actually prefer when something just breaks and it’s undriveable because they fix it almost instantly. This is why I just changed the tb, just couldn’t be bothered to wait since I was convinced it was faulty and it turned out to be the case thanks to your advice.

So I’ve had the airbox cov changed approx 1 month ago and the pse cov in the summer, it’s a 2014.

The extended warranty has paid for its self about 5x over for me but in 7k miles it’s spent approx 3 months in a dealer and I’m seriously beginning to think that these cars are just not meant to be driven properly without living in a garage fixing them!

You could be right about the residual oil, I was reading elsewhere that some oil/fuel vapour is normal, since it’s not a massive amount I was inclined to think the best, but having just checked my oil level, well you can see for yourself, it was 1 bar up the last time I checked a few weeks ago. Are these things prone to burning oil?

When I did a short test on piwis on the vario cam, on the high lift test the car was shaking like crazy, I’m wondering if the variocam solenoid is also faulty, just trying to figure this all out so I can avoid the wait and being told the cars fine, when I know it’s not. I only took the warranty for the gearbox and big ticket items so happy to buy my peace of mind and enjoyment doing the odd sensor or coil pack.

 

Forgot the pic!

 

I don't have any extended warranty, I've done all the work on my car myself and saved me time, money and gave me the opportunity to become more intimate with my car. Mine is a 2016, last year of the 991.1 and I'd say it's been incredibly reliable considering it's a high-performance car and I drive her to the redline every day. And she's just hit 105k miles. The manual says oil consumption of something like a quart per 1000 miles (I don't remember the exact number) is normal. That said, I lose one bar of oil on the gauge (about 1/3 quart) every 2000 miles. These 9A1 engines are solid but let down by some of the components. The 2015 and 2016 model years have had several upgraded revisions on components - COVs, Solenoids, AOS, etc. and they're building on knowledge of the failures for the first versions. I think the VVT solenoids have gone through like 4 or 5 revisions, and the COVs like 3. These revisions are more stout. The VVT solenoid is worth changing I think, and they weren't that hard to do, there are 2 - one on each bank next to the spark plugs on the valve covers. Mine were mostly fine, I found a little play on the skirt, but that was one of the first things I changed to chase my idle issues, after the plugs and coils. Make sure you buy the newest version if you're doing this. The dealership won't change it unless there's a code associated with them but they can still be faulty and cause some issues like you mentioned without popping a code.

 

I think you’ve summarised it well, a great engine let down by components, mine is also a model year 15 but registered late 14. I'm confident/competent enough to do the work, it’s the diagnosing that I want to improve on so I’m not throwing unnecessary parts at the car, realised I’m not going to get far for a rough idle with the dealer when no faults thrown, so think I need to just get down and dirty and maybe speak to a few Indy’s to get their opinion.

Thanks again for your help 👍🏻