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Post 18, first line under “Please note:” to the right of the spark plug diagram
I didn't state that, that is part of the Bosch spark plug manual that I took a screen shot of. And Bosch does not state not to use an anti-seize, but to reduce the torque, which is what I do.
People not too clued in can do as they wish. Like I said, in near 50 years, I've never had a seized spark plug or one that snapped off or had stripped spark plug threads. If you have those issues, time to take up basket weaving.
Search "spark plugs" in the Porsche Repair Manual and you'll come across the 3 markets listing.
Right - it seems clear to me that anti-seize will do nothing other than (like any lubricant) reduce the torque needed to fully seat the plug, and make it easier to remove during subsequent change - my question was to get PorscheAddict to provide his Porsche source for his binary statement regarding removing the plugs to ensure they don't get stuck in the head.
Right - it seems clear to me that anti-seize will do nothing other than (like any lubricant) reduce the torque needed to fully seat the plug, and make it easier to remove during subsequent change - my question was to get PorscheAddict to provide his Porsche source for his binary statement regarding removing the plugs to ensure they don't get stuck in the head.
My statement had nothing to do with anti-seize and that's something you have read into it or assumed. The statement was that removing plugs from a time basis rather than just mileage/use is to protect against the plugs seizing up. Not all plugs are installed with anti-seize (see many above posters). The time limit is to protect against plugs seizing up. My DD is an Audi S4 and the spark plugs are 6yr/40k. My last DD was an Audi A3. Also 6yr/40k. Not sure why they give the Audi's a longer time, but they are both time and mileage based. Porsche sports cars are also typically driven far less miles than most cars which makes the time rating all the more important.
Man, my inbox is getting flooded with back and forth on this, and seems like some unnecessary vitriol...none of which is directly answering OP's questions or needs. Seems like you can use anti-seize if you'd really like to, although it also seems Porsche feels it's not necessary or recommended for a variety of reasons, likely that it may cause more harm than good if applied incorrectly. To OP: to me it was worth the time and effort to do my own plugs and I enjoyed the process. If you buy the kit From FCP Euro, you can do them every year if you wish, essentially part cost free. I saved money and time - I didn't need to leave the car and hope they finished soon, I knew the person performing the job would do so with utmost care (I am a bit jaded by "professionals") and I got to be more intimate with the engine to my new joy and learn some of the fascinating engineering at play. The process is not as straight forward as with a Corolla or a Jetta, to be sure, but nimble hands and some common tools and you can get this done. If you use anti-seize, perhaps use an acid brush as was mentioned earlier, and be very sparing with it and adjust the torque correctly. If you don't, and I didn't and I'm pretty sure there was no anti-seize on the plugs I pulled with about 45k miles on them and no issue removing..., just make sure to torque as directed. some cylinders are rather easy, a couple were more cumbersome, but you don't need to drop the engine to do this. However, if you fancy changing your headers, I'd strongly recommend you do the plugs at the same time as you'll have complete easy access! If you have PDCC there are some additional components that may need to be loosened and moved out of the way, I read somewhere. We're all here to get useful insight, information and advice. I suspect there are a few ways to do things and each would likely work fine, with pros and cons on each. Have fun with the process and don't overthink it.
Right - it seems clear to me that anti-seize will do nothing other than (like any lubricant) reduce the torque needed to fully seat the plug, and make it easier to remove during subsequent change...
Exactly! And that is why certain torque specs state "dry". In which case, you reduce the torque when using anti-seize as stated in the Bosch spark plug manual.
The OP asked two questions, time related in post #1 and anti-seize in post #17. And I answered both in post #18 using what is found in the Porsche Service Manual and also the Bosch spark plug manual. Trust me far better than the fiction found in forums or YouTube.
You might notice that Porsche lists different mileages based on the fuel used where some countries still use leaded gas (really?). For that reason Porsche lists different Markets and therefore different requirements but the 4 years is constant. I don't know if any member bothered looking that up. They are just covering their butt as I removed mine at year 7 but with very low mileage and they came out as if they were installed the day before. They got a flash coat of anti-seize as I re-installed them.
Last edited by IXLR8; 11-30-2023 at 02:41 PM.
Reason: typo as usual
Thanks to everyone , very helpful information and discussions !
I have always changed my own plugs since I started driving back in the 70's. My old 2002 Corvette Z06 was a bit of a bear to get to the rear plugs , so I am familiar with working in tight spaces with articulating plug sockets.
Would be great to have a test device ... something that would replicate engine operating conditions and fire rates, then spit out a comparison factor between the tested plug and average new. If for no other reason to determine more accurate replacement schedules.
I came across a screen shot of that Porsche document. It was written back in June 14, 1991 in the days of the 964, and in my Porsche 993 Repair Manual, it simply states (and without any reason) "do not use any lubricant on the spark plug threads". I'd like to see an update to that document, but it is heavily guarded by the CIA and NSA.
As far as reducing spark plug torque, that is understandable and one you can comply with, but as far as electrical reasons due to anti-seize being an electrical insulator, that is pure BS on Porsche's part.
Would be great to have a test device ... something that would replicate engine operating conditions and fire rates, then spit out a comparison factor between the tested plug and average new. If for no other reason to determine more accurate replacement schedules.
I never worry about wear but more about being able to remove the spark plug, and when you do the latter, you can check the condition of the plug. I remove plugs and glow plugs in a diesel (that have a removal torque or they make snap off) from time to time to avoid the grief you read about on forums. Never had an issue.
I'm on the road and not on the track at the international level with prize money waiting. You'd be amazed how worn a plug can be and you'd never notice the difference in normal driving.
11-30-2023, 10:28 AM
