In the process of moving to Houston and need to trailer my 991S from WI. Few questions, 1.) my car should fit on a Uhaul trailer correct? 2.) anything special need to be done other then just strapping the car down to the trailer itself? Pulling it behind a Ford F150 Supercrew so I'm hoping not to have any issues. Thanks guys!

 

Personally, I'd make two trips. I also live in Wi and will be doing this very thing soon to another location. I guess it comes down to how particular you are about your car. I'd haul mine in an enclosed trailer, but having used the Uhaul trailers before, there are too many factors left to chance for me.

 

Please explain. What factors are you talking about?

 

I tow my 991 C2S to the track semi-regularly with the wife's Cayenne. Uhaul trailer works great, just load it in backwards. F150 should have no issues.

 

I had one trailer axle fail towing an E39 M5, roughly a decade ago. Got it stopped safely on I-95 in VA, but was roadside for 6 hours waiting on roadside service from Uhaul. Three years ago, towing a vehicle I bought up from down South, the prolific sand that is locally used on the roads in winter caused the need to respray the front bumper and both front quarters.

As with everything on the internet, opinions will vary and everyone will be correct and think everyone else is wrong. All I'm saying, moving soon from Madison, I'll make two trips. One to reposition the car, one to move everything else.

 

I would drive the car down to Houston. A great drive and a great chance to experience a great car. Also, probably just as expensive either way. In all of my company moves I always drove. All good experiences. When my son was old enough, he accompanied me. Made for great bonding experiences.

 

I’ve done a long move with the 911 on a uhaul trailer with a 16ft uhaul…. Works well, no issues, no scratches

 

And I thought you were going to tow the trailer with your 911. Would have been an interesting thread!

 

You'll be fine. I've transported exotics open and closed all over. Only issue you may have is scraping getting up or down, so have something handy to help that like some wood boards. Be careful tying it down. Don't wrap straps around anything aluminum (suspension). Strap the car down using the wheels. Put the parking brake on. Enjoy the move.

 

1) if the trailer interior dimensions are larger than the car exterior dimensions, you're good to go. both sets of dimensions are published and easily accessed. uhaul makes more than one trailer so it's a little more complicated than "yes" or "no" since we don't know what trailer you're looking at.
2) leave the alarm off and strap it down, you'll be set.

 

I would NOT trust any trailer from U-Haul. I got stranded by three different trucks from U-Haul in one trip, which lead to a lawsuit against U-Haul. The things I learned during the discovery phase on that suit showed me to NEVER use U-Haul again, no matter how cheap they are. It's just not worth it from a safety standpoint. Use Penske, if you can. They actually maintain their trucks and trailers, unlike U-Haul.

 

I would but it would be hard driving two cars at the same time....LOL, hence the towing....but yes I would much rather drive it

 

TL;DR: avoid U-Haul at all costs due to shoddy maintenance. Open trailer your own vehicle with caution; but, it may not be that different in terms of possible damage compared to driving it.

I personally would avoid long haul trailering a 911 on a single car trailer, especially a U-Haul one without front protection. I've not had issues with the larger open trailers used by the pros to haul cars (either towed by a semi or HD pickup) so I'm not specifically anti open trailering for most cars. Out of college, I towed a brand new Civic from Michigan to California with a U-Haul box truck and U-Haul car trailer. I had issues with the mixed tire sizes on both with near failures. Luckily the issues were caught during walk arounds at gas stations while filling up so they didn't become disasters. They still caused time, stress, and unplanned overnights to be added to the trip.

I got caught in highway construction in the middle of nowhere Wyoming where they had laid tar and rocks down on the highway. I'll never forget the sound of the rocks hitting the U-Haul from both it's own tires, the vehicles in front of us, and semi trucks driving by as we crept along in the slow lane. Within minutes we had cracks in the U-Haul windshield, and I knew my the trailered car was going to be trashed before I could safely get off the highway and figure out what to do. Of course, any vehicle I had on the road, whether being open trailered or driving the vehicle, would have been impacted by this.

Thankfully I had U-Haul zero deductible insurance on everything. They tried to come at me for damage on the truck and trailer, but agreed their policy should cover it when I wouldn't roll over and pay. On my car, outside of the side view mirror glass, side windows, and rear window there was not a part that did not need to be repainted or replaced (cracked windshield, chewed up plastic parts, broken fog lights, deeply pitted headlights, badly peppered paint (even on the rear bumper), etc. . .). Initially, insurance wanted to total my Civic with paper plates still on it, but after some negotiation I opted to take a payment for repair and live with it mostly as-is (only repairing the major cosmetic and safety issues which were mostly remove and replace parts) since it was going to be parked on the street in a city.

And sadly, having not learned my lesson the first time, I had one more bad experience with U-Haul (lack of) maintenance after that which has lead me to swear off U-Haul forever. It's not worth saving a few bucks to put your life in danger.

 

You may need ramps or 2 x 6 to get it on and off the trailer without scraping the front lip. Also watch scraping the middle when the front tires are on the trailer and rears on the ramp or vice versa. Mine was a 981 to and from VIR. As mentioned loading it backwards my solve but definitely puts more weight on the tongue. Connect and thoroughly check all the lights, we rejected the first trailer because of lights not working. Take a tire gauge to make sure the trailer tires have the right PSI. Check with your insurance company on what coverage the car has when being trailered and whether it extends to the trailer. Pay for the UHaul coverage accordingly. UHaul trailers are massive and heavy so your combined weight is 5500+. We stopped after the 1st hour and retightened the straps. The trailer has surge brakes. Don't forget to lower the fenders when loading/unloading. Assume you will spend several nights at a motel, so rearm the car alarm.

I'd also check Penske.

All of that said I'd probably do two trips and drive. A day trip to the track is one thing, your trip is much longer and your car more valuable than mine.

 

As mentioned, you probably really want an enclosed trailer, or at least a trailer that has a front shield to prevent gravel, road debris, and crap kicked up by the tow vehicles tires, from damage in the front of the car.
Also as mentioned, and hinted about, most rental trailers are set up with the thought of a front engine vehicle, obviously the 911 shifts the way backwards taking pressure off the tongue, which can be a bad thing … which is why most people who tow 911s have trailers with the axles further back, or as also previously mentioned, they put the car on backwards … but you need to make sure the tongue weight is correct so you don’t get an out of control swervy trailer.