I want to bleed the brakes in my 2017 Carrera GTS. I found the Sealy Model VS580 V4 (Made in the UK), about $155 on Amazon. Amazon delivery is a week to 10 days. I want the bleeder sooner. Can anyone recommend a bleeder comparable to the Sealy Model VS580 V4? Thanks in advance.

 

Heres mine , 60$

 

I use the Motive bleeder too. Works great. Make sure you get the right adapter for European cars.

 

I used the Motive with the European cap or something like that. It’s easy to use. I used the wet method and filled the Motive container with brake fluid and proceeded that way. Clean up was not a big deal. I would recommend this bleeder option manufacturer.

 

I bought this

 

i let my Indee do it

 

Another user of the Motive Products Power Bleeder, model 0109. I could not find anything negative about it. Damn good product.

I use it "dry" instead of the accepted "wet" method.

 

I have always done this "dry," as well on other cars ... a bit of a pain to continue to depressurize, pull cap and fill, etc ... haven't done the 911.1, yet ... is this effective? Filling the tank with brake fluid seems a bit wasteful and messy.

 

With the CPC "valved" quick connects, at least I do not have to pressurize the tank each time.

And with the "valved" quick connect on the hose at the cap, you can depressurize the brake fluid reservoir and that makes removing the cap a snap. Fill the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line, reinstall the cap and reconnect the tank...no need to pump it up again.

 

Schwaben - 3-Liter Premium European Brake Bleeder - 70$ a little cheaper if you are PCA member. It is every bit as nice as the motive, has the quick disconnect and a billet European (Porsche) master cap/lid.

 

Here is @IXLR8 's thread on the Motive bleeder mod. It's definitely worth doing if using the dry method. Thanks, Alex!
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ethod-use.html

 

Thanks to all for your responses. They were very helpful.

 

Advantages in process, performance or ease of use between the Motive and Schwaben solutions?

 

+1 to using pressure bleeders dry. haven't been able to swallow the price for a pressure vessel and a tube yet, myself, but I'll buy or build one some day. For now I use a metal version of a mityvac.

 

PROTOCOL FOR BLEEDING BRAKES “Ole School”



The ignition is off.

In the best-case scenario, all 4 wheels are off the ground. At a minimum, the rear is off the ground first, then the front is elevated after the 2 rear calipers have been bled.

This is a 2-person job with one person sitting in the car, the “Pusher”. The other person at the brake calipers is the “Bleeder”.

The bleeding process starts at the passenger side rear, migrates to the driver's side rear, then to the passenger side front, and finally, the driver’s side front. The “Bleeder” is responsible to apply a catch device/tube to catch the old brake fluid as he moves around the calipers. And the “Bleeder” is the one who cracks and retightens the brake caliper screw.

After opening the bleeder valve, the “Bleeder” barks “Push”! Upon hearing this, the “Pusher”, applies firm pressure to the brake pedal, with no pumping of the pedal. As the “Pusher” feels the brake pedal has reached the floorboard., he cries out “Hold”. Upon hearing “Hold”, the “Bleeder” tightens down the bleeding screw on the caliper.

This process is repeated 3X to 4X on each bleeding screw, outside to inside, and rotates around the car. The brake fluid reservoir is topped off as needed, at least after every corner.