A 1:03 at Lime Rock is nothing to sneeze at.

You are running a big brake kit so I’m sure you’re having no issues with brakes, stock GTS size brakes look like FKN mountain bike sizes.

 

Thanks man he got back to me with the following:


Hey Brother, I have had similar issues. The solution is not cheap.

Whilst i have Brembo GTS 380mm front and rear, ai am up grading to Brembo GT-R, with the high thermal rotors.


They have a larger annulus and are thicker. 34 mm instead of 32. The calipers are forged and nickel plated.

They also have vented pistons. I’ll be running RE10 pads.

Currently run N35S and Castrol SRF, 6 way braided lines.

Good luck. Let me know which way you go.

4.0

__________________
2018 991.2 GTS Carrara White

 

You are running 350/350 two piece rotors with a more aggressive pad than Enzo is running. I don’t think an extra 30mm of thermal capacity is going to gain you much… You shouldn’t be burning through a set of good pads in one 20 min session. 500whp is good power but not that much.

In my car (365whp) I am getting 24-30 sessions out of a set of Endless MX72 aggressive street pads (similar to what Enzo is running) with Cup2 tires.

—————-

A friend of mine with a modded 991.2 GT2RS down sized to 380mm Girodisc steel rotors, same pads as you (same part number for front), good fluid, stock lines, Cup2R tires, gets 4-5 days at Monticello Motor Club

 

LOL, yes - the stock GTS brakes and stock S brakes are fine if you don’t upgrade the motor and aren’t super aggressive on braking. The moment you do so and have any speed at all on track, they’re not long for this world. The heat I was generating from the stock brakes basically made the pads disintegrate. The drive home was “interesting”.

As part of installing the Essex Parts/AP Racing brake kit - calipers, rotors, brake lines, etc - you wind up removing the heat shield from the brakes. According to John at Essex Parts, all they do is reflect heat back at the brakes and rotors and make things hotter, so I had them removed when I had the brakes upgraded. Since then, they’ve been flawless and I haven’t even (yet) had to go with a more track-oriented pad (I don’t want the squeal on the street, and don’t want the reduced bite when they’re not warm on the street). The increased modulation and force on them compared to stock is marked. My bet is that to solve your problem w.r.t. the brakes, you’re going to have to upgrade them to something with better cooling capabilities - the J Hooks have got more cooling vanes in their design than many others, which is why I chose them, along with AP Racing’s reputation for reliability in cars driven much harder and faster than what I’m capable of doing.

 

Do you run Full Traction control OFF?

If you leave Traction Control ON, you will fry your rear pads in 20 mins!

Since running full OFF, I barely use any rear pad at all now.

 

looks like AP is out of 5he question.

from 4.0:

Every single set of AP rotors I have seen at the track end up cracked. I have destroyed 3 sets of calipers, and never cracked a brembo rotor yet. I wore the face completely off the last set, and they still never cracked.

 

Adam, I forget exactly what rotors you’re running, but if Mach5gsxr is using 350mm rotors with the same thickness as the OEM (which they’d have to be doing with stock calipers AFAIK), then it’s more than just the 30mm thermal capacity. The 380mm J hooks are 36mm front/28mm rear - I believe that’s wider than stock - and have more vanes in them than stock, so there’s a significant difference in thermal capacity - more so than what the 30mm swept area suggests. I could be wrong on the width of the stock rotors, but I believe the stock are 34mm front/26mm rear.

 

PDK, standard Cup2's. I uploaded a video for you.


I am not comfortable full flat out up the esses just yet. If I had aero and even better tires, then maybe more so. We will see I am still learning the Glen. I am going back June 10th with Zone 1 PCA.

To piggyback off 4.0 statement about PSM, I run with the nannies on at the Glen. Had an incident there long ago with another car and not worth me taking the risks. I do run with "Sport PSM" on other tracks though and it really helps rotation.

 

Good point didn’t consider the thickness. I’m just running basic slotted Sebro rotors. No doubt the AP kit is great. But… one session with Pagid yellows? One?

I track with my cousin who drives a heavy *** Audi S5 sportback making at least 500whp. He drives like a complete goon, as his company foots the bill for all service. Even he get a day or two out of a set of yellows.


From NJMP a week ago, you can see the grey Audi.

 

there is a ton of pad left, the rotors basically went on fire.

 

My Personal opinion about Vane count is, it doesn't make much difference. Thickness however does make a difference. The new AP kit is 36mm thick. That is on the right track.


My original Brembo Vane count was 46. I changed to the 72 Vane count, and I believe that made zero difference.

AP has 82 Vane count, and I believe that is why you see so many cracked rotors with fast guys. I think they went a step too far. But are back on track with 36mm thick.

 

I never use TC/SC: rain, track, snow whatever.

 

Do you still have the rotor dust/heat shields in place?

 

That’s a good point as well. My race mechanic trimmed mine right back. So they just protect the bearings from heat, but the rotor is mainly exposed for extra cooling.

 

NANNIES AND PDK! You should be shot 😉

Were you at LRP on 8/20 last year with the SCDA?