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I recently had an issue with the rear end - took it to a shop I trusted nearby to get the major work done as the nearest Porsche certified location was not close by. The work done by the shop was excellent even though it wasn't certified - paint was perfectly matched. However there was one catch, as has been alluded to in prior posts: they did not have all the necessary parts to complete the job, specifically the template for the rear emblems, which only a select few places have. Most dealers don't even have the templates. As a result I ended up having to take it to a certified location anyway to complete the job. If you're looking to get it all done in one shot, best to use a certified place, but not the end of the world either way.
^^^ Read this. In the Porsche community in Houston for 20+ years. Would only take my car(s) to Metropolitan ( and deal with the wait ).
I had Momentum do excellent work for me on a BMW 10 years ago, and and Acura 7 years ago, but friends have not had good experiences with Porsche. PM me if you like.
^^^ Read this. In the Porsche community in Houston for 20+ years. Would only take my car(s) to Metropolitan ( and deal with the wait ).
I had Momentum do excellent work for me on a BMW 10 years ago, and and Acura 7 years ago, but friends have not had good experiences with Porsche. PM me if you like.
Yeah, Metropolitan is probably my lead go-to case right now. They're the closest to me in terms of distance, they're Porsche Certified, and I did have one minor experience with them back in 2006 with my Seal Gray 997 S (so a long time ago) that was good. I just heard one person recently say that they didn't think Metropolitan could match paint well, and I've got GT Silver (which is harder to match than other colors, as I understand it). That said, I guess I could always have Metropolitan work on it, and if they don't get the paint right, have them do it again. And if they still don't get it right, go to this other place (Caliber on Aldine-Westfield) who I've been told are really good at matching paint. (I believe Caliber is also Certified, but they're pretty far from me and they actually have a fair number of negative Yelp reviews.)
Hello there. Waking up an old thread to provide some input. First of all, my qualification (besides being the OP of that post @regajohn told you read) I am a Porsche certified shop (and several other OEM's). I'm also an I-CAR instructor. No shade on the likes of BMW, Audi, Mercedes-Benz and Maserati (nor Lexus, GM, etc...) but the Porsche certified program is the toughest one to pass and recertify every year. I'd say Audi and Mercedes are also tough if it's the elite certification (aluminum welding). But Porsche repairs only utilize aluminum welding in a couple of repairs. What Porsche does require, that NO ONE else requires is that everyone must be ASE certified. I've seen high end certified shops with painters that don't speak English. Explain to me how this painter is able to stay abreast of emerging technologies, or even read the instructions on a product, if they can't read/write English to the proficiency of a ASE certified painter? (for context I am an non-English immigrant myself, and can appreciate the difference between). A place where a tech would need a high level of literacy - there are documents deep in Porsche's repair guidelines that say cars in bake booths should have the tires removed before bake cycle. There are SOME models that must be put into jack mode before lifting or jacking, or else the shocks get damaged. And there are SOME models that call for replacement of seemingly undamaged steering or AC parts due to damages from accidents or removal of parts.
To the rennlister who wanted more than Porsche marketing material... consider that upon resale, it makes a perceived difference to the buyer, and that might be reason enough to go with PACC. But as mentioned above, PACC's have access to tools and parts that the best shops in town just don't. From chassis and frame parts to emblems and decals. If the shop has a Car-o-Liner via their Mercedes certification, they cannot access Porsche specs without being a PACC. And hence, cannot verify the structural integrity of the car. I am not a JLR certified shop. I'll fix those cars occasionally for VIP clients. But I also have to turn away a lot of them because I know a JLR certified shop can serve them better. Long gone are the days that the logic and expertise applied to a BMW would apply to a Benz (or Porsche). Porsche's radar sensors for lane change assist require calibration with static tools and a PIWIS tool. BMW's sensors are dynamic and most aftermarket tool can access the calibration mode.
Another reason to go with a PACC, if there is a major parts delay - you can call PCNA and request a loaner car. I've seen them do it for cars at PACC's. If there is a problem with repair, even if you've moved across country, PCNA will direct you to another PACC and honor the warranty. And even if you have a customer service issue, you can report the PACC to PCNA. And trust me, no PACC wants to get a call from PCNA about an upset client.
Having said all this, 95% of the shops, can fix 95% of the damages without issues, 95% of the time. But if I told you 95% of the time you get in your car, you won't have an accident, would you cancel your insurance?
I recall trading in a special edition orange 987S that previously was involved with a deer for a 991 S4.
Dealer checked the paint and noted it was not perfectly aligned with factory specifications and questioned the repair.
I proudly proclaimed it was done by a Porsche Certified Repair center... well that meant nothing.
Waste of time and money, insist on only Porsche OEM parts and a skilled shop, forget the perceived value of the Porsche Repair Certification.