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Oil leak question

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Old 03-28-2023, 01:15 PM
  #31  
koala
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Originally Posted by moswissa
no drain plug was just replaced with the routine oil change, after that we noticed the leaked, then he re torqued it to spec which fixed the issue. Now 8 months later its leaking again. Im thinking maybe he didnt remove the old crush washer
I feel like the suggestion everyone had months ago is still the place to start then. You might as well do exactly what the last few posters have suggested and perform a complete oil change along with a new drain plug & washer.
Old 03-28-2023, 04:23 PM
  #32  
HardRider
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find a new mechanic. How the hell would the oil pan crack unless he overtorqued. Do the job right with new crush washer and new mechanic and your problem will go away.
Old 03-28-2023, 05:01 PM
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barncobob
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have U been 4x4 ing lately,,errant curb or parking divider?
Old 03-30-2023, 07:18 PM
  #34  
moswissa
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Originally Posted by koala
I feel like the suggestion everyone had months ago is still the place to start then. You might as well do exactly what the last few posters have suggested and perform a complete oil change along with a new drain plug & washer.
Well it didnt leak after he retorqued it until 8 months later so I forgot about it, but anyways
I just purchased the oil plug and washer and will do an oil change next week. If it still leaks, I will replace the pan. thank you everyone !
Old 03-31-2023, 10:59 AM
  #35  
IXLR8
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Originally Posted by moswissa
Well it didnt leak after he retorqued it...
And this is usually the case. I have had the very odd drain plug leak (very slight or a weep) and I use a NEW drain plug sealing ring every time, both in my cars and motorcycles. All it took was a loosening of the drain plug (using a ratchet) by a few degrees and then retorquing it.

In fact it is a good thing that a Rennnlist member metioned that my drive belt was on backwards last weekend after he viewed my "Coolant Leak - DIY" thread. So I checked (it is a double sided multi-V groove belt) and I also noted I had maybe a tablespoon or two of an oil stain on my garage floor...after 5 months of winter storage. Four days later after the loosening and retorquing, a totally dry drain plug.

By the way, the aluminum sealing rings are a soft malleable aluminum, like a 1100 series aluminum. The aluminum can harden by work hardening and aging and at a far less than a dollar, just replace them.
Old 04-10-2023, 02:59 AM
  #36  
moswissa
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Just wanted to update everyone, I replaced the oil drain plug and crush washer. It’s been a week and so far no leak. My mechanic thinks it’s still going to eventually leak from the pan. He showed me how tight the original plug was but I hope he’s wrong and I don’t have to replace the pan. My mechanic said he’s never seen oil pans go bad on 991s but also confused to why it leaks even with the old drain plug when was brand new
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Old 04-10-2023, 07:59 AM
  #37  
JW911
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I once changed my oil after a dealer did the previous change. I was surprised to find there was no washer. I was annoyed and surprised it didn't leak. I was about to re-install the plug with a new washer when I thought to double check for the old washer. I inspected the bottom of the pan where to plug goes and it looked normal. But then I felt around with my finger and low and behold, the missing washer popped off in my hand! It totally blended in and was impossible to see! If it leaks again, check for this before you replace the pan. If it doesn't leak, check for this at your next oil change. A double washer is more likely to be the cause vs a cracked pan, especially since it has had periods of no leakage.
Old 04-11-2023, 07:45 AM
  #38  
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[QUOTE=moswissa;17943583]Hey guys, just wanted some quick insight before taking my car to the mechanic. I have a 2012 991.1 S. I had an oil change done 6 months ago and also swapped the drain plug as i noticed it was stripped from the previous owner. Havent had an issues until now, I noticed an oil leak in the garage. Seemed like it was coming from the drain plug, so I tried to tighten it by hand with a small allen wrench but it seemed tight. I probably didnt have the right leverage. Im thinking maybe the oil pan is drain plug is stripped and the pan needs to be replaced. Weird that it started leaking now. Hopefully its not leaking from anywhere else. its leaking pretty good. attached are some pics. thanks!


Very interesting, we could swap pictures and we would swear they are from the same car and garage. I've had the car for several years now, 2013 991.1 S and never had an oil leak issue until recently. The leak seemed to occur only if I hadn't driven the car in several weeks to a month or if we had a cold spell where the temps would get down into the 40's. And she would "deposit" or leak and it would stop... never a continuous leak. I took the car into the dealership and chatted with the mechanic and he couldn't find anything out of the ordinary except a very small gouge or scratch on the bottom side threaded part of the oil pan. I wish I would've photographed it, I could visually see it and he used a tool like a dental pick to "feel" it. The scratch was enough to catch the pick slightly as you ran it across. Now, this was a very tiny gouge/scratch and it may or may not have been the issue. We installed a new plug and new washer and we're going to see what happens. It's only been 3 weeks and no leaks. On another note, I don't understand why Porsche requires so much torque pounds (37?) for a simple oil plug and that's a lot. Gone are the days of just making sure the oil plug was snug and to not over tighten it. 🙂

Old 04-11-2023, 11:10 AM
  #39  
981KMAN
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I believe that the 37Lb-Ft of torque is to compress the new Crush Washer.

I would also make sure that the drain hole is clean before replacing the Plug & Washer. Leaving a piece of grit on the pan mating surface can cause a gouge. I assume your pan/plug are so dirty due to the oil leak.

I hope your leak is gone with the new plug & washer!
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Old 04-11-2023, 12:08 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by 981KMAN
I believe that the 37Lb-Ft of torque is to compress the new Crush Washer.

I would also make sure that the drain hole is clean before replacing the Plug & Washer. Leaving a piece of grit on the pan mating surface can cause a gouge. I assume your pan/plug are so dirty due to the oil leak.

I hope your leak is gone with the new plug & washer!
Yes, it's dirty from the oil leak, it's clean now as I check it every day for leaks 😁. The gouge could of possibly happened when they placed the crush washer, the gouge runs vertically and not horizontally around the drain hole. And again, the gouge or scratch is so minute, it may have nothing to do with the leaking issue. I forgot to mention the mechanic used a fine grit sandpaper to smooth it out. I'm not a car engineer but it would make much more sense to me to use a rubber gasket. You wouldn't have to use high torque pressures, lessen the chance of cracking or creating fissures cracks in and or around the oil pan drain hole which I've seen photos of that occurring. I'm sure there is a simple reason why they do use a crush washer. 😎
Old 04-11-2023, 12:36 PM
  #41  
barncobob
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.2 oil plugs are plastic with a rubber gasket
Old 04-11-2023, 01:11 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by 981KMAN
I believe that the 37 Lb-Ft of torque is to compress the new Crush Washer.
And perfectly normal. It has an M18 x 1.5 thread.

My other car has a M14 thread and is torqued to 29 lbf.ft.



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