moswissa

update-

mechanic loosened the drain plug and torqued it to spec. He recommends replacing the drain plug and crusher washer even though it was replaced last oil change. If that doesnt work, he suspects the oil pan needs to be replaced as there could be a hairline crack around the drain plug theading.

Bud Taylor

This thread gave me 964 flashbacks

Carreralicious

If he just loosened the drain plug and retorqued it, he’s essentially reusing the crush washer again. I’d get a new plug and crush washer and do it the right way. Yeah, you’ll need to do another oil change but at that time you can inspect the oil pan to see if it really does have any crack or not. He probably didn’t put in a new crush washer the last time.

koala

I'm sorry, but that simply isn't the correct way to address this issue. Also, FWIW, I highly doubt there is a hairline crack near the drain plug.

Don't let $80 in materials be the demise of your beautiful car!

CSK 911 C4S

It sure is. If it doesn't leak after you are good to go.

Why waste $80-90 in oil when a simple tightening will correct the issue.

koala

I mean, I get what you're saying. I guess it's just peace of mind. If it were leaking, I don't know if I'd trust myself enough to just re-torque it and assume that was enough. I'm too paranoid

Dgags

I’d want to know a bit more, too. Drain the oil, clean it up, get a flashlight to make sure all is good, reinstall and add oil. I do regular 300-350 mile drives and would need some certainty about the problem. The cost is equal to a tank of gas…

Porsche_nuts

A year or two ago, I wound up overfilling my oil. I drained about 2-3 cups of oil and replaced the plug but forgot to change the crush washer. No oil leaks or issues.

The next year when I did the oil change, I could not remove the crush washer from the plug. They melded together. Luckily, I had a spare plug.

Jack F

Sounds like OP is sorted but it’s quite easy to drain this new oil into a clean container. If you don’t have a clean container then put your container in a bag and now your oil will remain clean and not be contaminated with the old oil Schmutz. Then proceed with putting plug back in and torque to spec. The plastic plug on the 991.2 while I totally looked goofy, solves this issue.

moswissa

hey guys!

So its been 8 months since my mechanic re-torqued the oil plug which fixed the leak, but today i noticed it started to leak again. Many of you have suggested to replace the plug and crush washer instead of replacing the entire oil pan. My mechanic is suggesting to replacing the oil pan but I am still suspecting that replacing the crush washer and plug will be a better start, rather than dishing out a new oil pan. I dont see many people replacing the oil pan. what do you guys think?

koala

If I recall correctly, you already had the problematic drain plug and washer replaced, so if it is leaking again, I think your mechanic might be right - probably a hairline crack in the oil pan.

moswissa

no drain plug was just replaced with the routine oil change, after that we noticed the leaked, then he re torqued it to spec which fixed the issue. Now 8 months later its leaking again. Im thinking maybe he didnt remove the old crush washer

JimEb

Wonder if just a piece of debris between plug and pan.

These crush washers are just a flat piece of aluminum. …at least the ones I bought are. Some crush washers actually have a profile to them. Once torqued they deform and thus need replacing. A flat aluminum washer you’d think would continuously deform under torque until theres nothing left. My Hondas too just have a flat aluminum washer. I always replace despite my skeptic curiosity since you can buy them in bulk for cheap.

I drove my Jeep Wrangler for over a decade (before life forced me to trade it for a minivan) and never once replaced the crush washer.

981KMAN

The Flat Aluminum Crush Washers need to be replaced each time. They deform when torqued to the proper amount, and when removed retain their deformed shape, which now has a ridge on the outside edge, and cannot be reused. Plus they should not be loosened then retorqued, as the washer could shift position thus placing the ridge under a mating surface creating a leak. They cost less than $0.50 (cents).

I suggest that you drain and refill you oil, using a new crush washer and possibly a new Plug, given your issues. I would ensure that the Drain Hole, Washer & Plug are clean as a previous comment suggested the possibility of debris on the mating surface. Also ensure that it is torqued to the Porsche specification which is high (37 ft-lbs), yet works.

subshooter

Before I replace the oil pan, I'd do the following:

Replace plug and crush washer (and oil of course). Clean the seating surfaces of the all contact areas. Reassemble and torque to spec (both when the engine is cold and hot). Wipe up ALL oil residue and drive it. See what happens. If you still have a leak, replace the oil pan.

Edit: Ok...just read other responses. 981KMAN said exactly what I just typed. Except torquing to spec when the engine is cold and hot.