Fullyield

No. Biggest concern for extended idling when oil already at operating temp is engine overheating since you have no air moving through your coolant radiators up front. But, that is why you have radiator fans there, and it is dead winter. Watch your temp gauges during extended idling. I also GENTLY raise my rpm’s in neutral often during extended idling to help crankshaft slop more oil around the block and cylinder walls and to occasionally surge oil pressure through system. Just trying to get lotsa oil moving through the lubrication system.

james280

Exactly, and that's why I started this thread - to educate myself and figure out if I should change driving 'behavior' when possible. There's so much knowledge on this board, it's a great resource.

asellus

Take it off every sweet jump you can find, too!

asellus

Just don't flog it until you have some measured temperature in the car. For me that means stay under 3500rpm, and on a boosted car stay out of boost.

shyamvenky

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but I think my question is pertinent..
I've noticed that the PDK short-shifts extremely in normal mode - a steady 40 mph goes to 7th gear!
Yes, I do realize that not a lot of torque is needed just to keep steady, and that the PDK knows best etc.. But what about cold temps?
I know it's probably not lugging the engine when cold, but coming from a 997 6spd, it feels like the rpms are way too low and that the warmup is taking longer
So in cold start warm up periods, I shift manually and keep the revs around 2500-3000 rpm, except when it comes to stop-go (1st gear territory) and I switch it to auto then.
I'm still peeved by the rattles it occasionally makes during the cold runs until warmed up.
I haven't compared the warmup times of auto vs manual - but I like to believe that it warms up faster when I shift manually and keep revs near 3000 rpm (than auto that keeps to 2k rpm).
What are your thoughts on this?