991.2 7MT grinding into 2nd gear
#16
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I reported it when I took it in for service, I had my SA have a mechanic test drive, they said they didn't notice it, but I had my SA keep that information under record that I have complaints about the notchiness or grinding feeling that I feel sometimes when shifting 1/2 or once in a blue moon 2/3. I wanted it recorded for future warranty purposes that this was noticed since said date. Anything that happens in future it's already in Porsche system record of the issue I've reported.
#17
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I reported it when I took it in for service, I had my SA have a mechanic test drive, they said they didn't notice it, but I had my SA keep that information under record that I have complaints about the notchiness or grinding feeling that I feel sometimes when shifting 1/2 or once in a blue moon 2/3. I wanted it recorded for future warranty purposes that this was noticed since said date. Anything that happens in future it's already in Porsche system record of the issue I've reported.
#18
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Curious if you have an update to this? I recently grinded a 2-3rd and 4th to 3rd shift (2 days apart). While i really cant rule myself out of the equation, it would be out of character for me (lots of MT experience).
Both times happened at 6k+ RPM. I did recently add numeric cables / shifter, but if that was the cause, id imagine it would happen more often and be less RPM dependent, no?
The clutch in my car seems to have a pretty low engagement point, so i moved my seat up a bit and also 'slowed' my shifts down a bit.
It hasn't happened sense, but i do find it abit harder to upshift at a high RPM 'slowly' singe the revs drop so quick.
My car only has 36k on it, but its 8 years old, so im thinking of changing the MT fluid to Motul for good measure.
Both times happened at 6k+ RPM. I did recently add numeric cables / shifter, but if that was the cause, id imagine it would happen more often and be less RPM dependent, no?
The clutch in my car seems to have a pretty low engagement point, so i moved my seat up a bit and also 'slowed' my shifts down a bit.
It hasn't happened sense, but i do find it abit harder to upshift at a high RPM 'slowly' singe the revs drop so quick.
My car only has 36k on it, but its 8 years old, so im thinking of changing the MT fluid to Motul for good measure.
Last edited by mic_crispy; 08-19-2020 at 03:06 PM.
#19
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Update - I finally received the car back from the dealer. They installed a new clutch and greased the shift cables.
I put 500 miles on the car to break the clutch in, and so far so good. At this point I've shifted into second at least 20 times, and there was only a grind once. However, the one time it did grind might have been due to driver error (I don't think I had the clutch pedal 100% to the floor).
I'm still skeptical, since a clutch shouldn't cause this issue unless it were dragging.
The odd thing is that they said my old clutch still looked new. It never once slipped or gave me any indication that there was an issue with it.
So the problem may be solved?? I will report back soon.
I put 500 miles on the car to break the clutch in, and so far so good. At this point I've shifted into second at least 20 times, and there was only a grind once. However, the one time it did grind might have been due to driver error (I don't think I had the clutch pedal 100% to the floor).
I'm still skeptical, since a clutch shouldn't cause this issue unless it were dragging.
The odd thing is that they said my old clutch still looked new. It never once slipped or gave me any indication that there was an issue with it.
So the problem may be solved?? I will report back soon.
#20
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Update - I finally received the car back from the dealer. They installed a new clutch and greased the shift cables.
I put 500 miles on the car to break the clutch in, and so far so good. At this point I've shifted into second at least 20 times, and there was only a grind once. However, the one time it did grind might have been due to driver error (I don't think I had the clutch pedal 100% to the floor).
I'm still skeptical, since a clutch shouldn't cause this issue unless it were dragging.
The odd thing is that they said my old clutch still looked new. It never once slipped or gave me any indication that there was an issue with it.
So the problem may be solved?? I will report back soon.
I put 500 miles on the car to break the clutch in, and so far so good. At this point I've shifted into second at least 20 times, and there was only a grind once. However, the one time it did grind might have been due to driver error (I don't think I had the clutch pedal 100% to the floor).
I'm still skeptical, since a clutch shouldn't cause this issue unless it were dragging.
The odd thing is that they said my old clutch still looked new. It never once slipped or gave me any indication that there was an issue with it.
So the problem may be solved?? I will report back soon.
#22
Burning Brakes
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The grind has a lot to do with the load in the gearbox at the point of the shift. If load is increasing at the point the shift is initiated I’ve never had a grind. I have had many grinds in Caymans and 911s if you are minimizing the load at the point of the shift or essentially are under decreasing load. Gearboxes are designed where load is present, and usually increasing, at shift points. Decreasing load is at a point you wouldn’t normally be up shifting but sometimes driving conditions causes the load to disappear at the point you’re shifting (I.e. traffic or undulations for example). Try also not to shift at the point torque decreases or stumbles in the rpm range. I found in my Cayman R I could get grinds if I shifted at a certain rpm and especially if not accelerating at the point of the shift.
Last edited by MidEngineRules; 08-27-2020 at 07:00 PM.
The following users liked this post:
JYT (06-08-2021)
#23
Burning Brakes
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I can shift without using the clutch and not grind. Not something I would recommend though.
I've only done it as a demonstration to my son, he was asking about clutches and how they work/why we need them.
I told him we only really need them for starting on a non-negative grade.
I've only done it as a demonstration to my son, he was asking about clutches and how they work/why we need them.
I told him we only really need them for starting on a non-negative grade.
#24
Rennlist Member
#25
Instructor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I started a thread about mine grinding into third. It's a 17 4Gts with 55k miles, CPO. It happens multiple times on hard drives, dealer couldn't and still can't reproduce. I've changed shift habits, still the same. I'm going to change the fluid to see if that changes anything.
VW, the fluid was similar 75W90. I switched to GM synchromesh in my cars (not the 991) and the issues resolved themselves. Issues of grinding and such, but really really high miles (>250k). I doubt I'll go the synchromesh route on this, but maybe a different brand like, Amsoil or redline.
VW, the fluid was similar 75W90. I switched to GM synchromesh in my cars (not the 991) and the issues resolved themselves. Issues of grinding and such, but really really high miles (>250k). I doubt I'll go the synchromesh route on this, but maybe a different brand like, Amsoil or redline.
#26
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Can you expand on that? Would love to know details (when you would use that and benefits etc) and learn.
I can shift without using the clutch and not grind. Not something I would recommend though.
I've only done it as a demonstration to my son, he was asking about clutches and how they work/why we need them.
I told him we only really need them for starting on a non-negative grade.
I've only done it as a demonstration to my son, he was asking about clutches and how they work/why we need them.
I told him we only really need them for starting on a non-negative grade.
#27
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Basically you use the clutch to take off. Each gear from there, you would need to be able to brings the revs high enough to let the next gear match smoothly enough while falling and not using your clutch. It will shift smoothly if done right. Technically you dont need the clutch to shift like this.
#28
Three Wheelin'
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I know it's not the same car, but I had significant grinding issues on my 991.1 S. However, I had the transmission replaced as the 991.1 has a flaw where the reverse lights stop functioning, necessitating the replacement of the entire transmission. I'm about 1,500 km into the new transmission and have never experienced any grinding, which leads me to believe it was likely worn synchros.
#29
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Just to clarify, isn’t the “grinding” issue is from the syncros? Aren’t the forward gears on these transmissions always meshed and the synchros couple them to the shaft during gear selection?
#30
Burning Brakes
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
It's not something you should do, but something you can do. If the revs match there is no need for a clutch, except to get going from a stop. It's how transmissions work. Not recommended and there is no benefit, I only did it as a demonstration when asked by a 10 year old about the need for a clutch.
The following users liked this post:
JYT (06-13-2021)