How long do brakes typically last?
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2019
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Thanks all, really appreciate all the advice!
As a first step Im going to order all the parts. Is Suncoast the best place to order or any other recommendations?
Once I have everything I will either do this with my friend who has offered or find an Indy who will do it at a reasonable cost.
Probably wont go back to the dealer for servicing in future, they are nice to deal with, my service advisor is a very good guy, but the prices are just too high. I enjoy trying out their Macan loaners but not that much! 😊
As a first step Im going to order all the parts. Is Suncoast the best place to order or any other recommendations?
Once I have everything I will either do this with my friend who has offered or find an Indy who will do it at a reasonable cost.
Probably wont go back to the dealer for servicing in future, they are nice to deal with, my service advisor is a very good guy, but the prices are just too high. I enjoy trying out their Macan loaners but not that much! 😊
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Oh... 2+ decades of herding cats (i.e. being a software engineering manager.)
Two hours is a more realistic estimate for pad and rotor swap with 5-lugs.
Why? If you've got it down to 2 hours you've done it more than once or twice.
They don't have any 'magic' tools. They might save a few minutes of time using a lift rather than a floor jack. There aren't any tricks to or tools used doing the pads and rotors that you won't learn or have by the third time you've done it.
Yup.
But, your labor proportion estimate is off-target because you've mis-estimated the dealer's customer price on parts. The prices we can find on the web are - in my experience - about 1/2 to 2/3 of what a dealer will charge. In addition the dealer will likely add disposal charges for various things.
I can do all 4 corners in my garage (pads and rotors) in about 90-120 minutes,
I would assume a dealership tech could shave 30-50% off that time.'
They don't have any 'magic' tools. They might save a few minutes of time using a lift rather than a floor jack. There aren't any tricks to or tools used doing the pads and rotors that you won't learn or have by the third time you've done it.
But even if it takes a tech 2 hours, $3500 is still an $1800+ ripoff.
But, your labor proportion estimate is off-target because you've mis-estimated the dealer's customer price on parts. The prices we can find on the web are - in my experience - about 1/2 to 2/3 of what a dealer will charge. In addition the dealer will likely add disposal charges for various things.
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From: Gone. On the Open Road
Yes. Exactly that.
While we're on the subject of additional things to do during a rotor and pad swap for those that intend to keep their 991s forever...
1) Clean the outside of your calipers. Pay special attention to the parts that you can't reach when you clean your wheels, especially the inside-facing part of the caliper. Brake dust is corrosive. It will eventually compromise the color coating on the calipers. Use any car or wheel wash or even quick-detail spray.
2) Use a nylon brush and brush residual brake dust from the pad bore (i.e. the inside part of the caliper in which the pads travel) paying special attention to crevasses in, under, or around metal spring plates and pad guide plates. Stay away from the caliper piston seals though. Residual brake dust, allowed to build-up in these crevasses, will, via heat expansion cycles, function like a tree root: it will warp and bend metal pieces if it can get between them and the body of the caliper.
3) Apply a thin coating of aluminum-based (silver) anti-seize to the flanges on the wheel hub that 'grip' the wheel once mounted. This will prevent the wheel from getting 'stuck' to the wheel hub.
Also, I apply a coating of CorrosionX to the caliper's color coat after cleaning. This makes the caliper easier to clean next time and reduces the corrosive effect of brake dust.
Last, since the caliper bolts going into aluminum carriers, consider at some point converting from bolts to studs and nuts if you are doing frequent pad replacement (Lot's of tales of stripped carrier holes after the Nth pad change for the DE crowd.)
While we're on the subject of additional things to do during a rotor and pad swap for those that intend to keep their 991s forever...
1) Clean the outside of your calipers. Pay special attention to the parts that you can't reach when you clean your wheels, especially the inside-facing part of the caliper. Brake dust is corrosive. It will eventually compromise the color coating on the calipers. Use any car or wheel wash or even quick-detail spray.
2) Use a nylon brush and brush residual brake dust from the pad bore (i.e. the inside part of the caliper in which the pads travel) paying special attention to crevasses in, under, or around metal spring plates and pad guide plates. Stay away from the caliper piston seals though. Residual brake dust, allowed to build-up in these crevasses, will, via heat expansion cycles, function like a tree root: it will warp and bend metal pieces if it can get between them and the body of the caliper.
3) Apply a thin coating of aluminum-based (silver) anti-seize to the flanges on the wheel hub that 'grip' the wheel once mounted. This will prevent the wheel from getting 'stuck' to the wheel hub.
Also, I apply a coating of CorrosionX to the caliper's color coat after cleaning. This makes the caliper easier to clean next time and reduces the corrosive effect of brake dust.
Last, since the caliper bolts going into aluminum carriers, consider at some point converting from bolts to studs and nuts if you are doing frequent pad replacement (Lot's of tales of stripped carrier holes after the Nth pad change for the DE crowd.)
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Mainly to have the rotor hats look nice, longer, when up against the wheels. OE Porsche rotors already come with an anti-rust coating (pic #1....the dull gray coating). Many aftermarket rotors do not, and the hats rust and discolor badly. I coated the the OE Porsche rotors hats with about 6 light coats of high temp paint, then coated them with 3-4 light coats of high-temp clear. Then, I baked them in the oven for about 4 hours, when the wife was out. I also made a big batch of chili that day to mask any baking evidence. In total the project took about 3 weekends, because of the curing steps required for the coatings. You can lay down many coatings in one day (within a 60 minute period), but after that initial 60 minute period, it requires several days of curing before another coating cycle.
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From: 91North/75South
Painting the hats is really a great move. I had new rotors put on the wifes past Lexus RX and they were So ugly and rusted within the first 3 months I took it back to the shop and made them paint them.
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2019
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Only thing was he said dont buy the rubber boots you mentioned he said I wont need to replace them.
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From: Chicagoland Area
Brad recommended I get 'em. Of the 18 (I forget how many total brake pistons we have) boots, about 4-5 were split. It's pretty easy to pop them out, lube up a new one, and pop back in. It's just very proactive and being preventative.
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From: San Diego
I found out my local dealer will match Sunset's pricing so you might want to check with your local one to see if they do the same. Could save shipping costs all together.