Autotrader KBB instant offer - don't even bother
07-30-2019, 07:22 PM
#1
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Autotrader KBB instant offer - don't even bother
So I tried the Kelley Blue Book instant offer tool on autotrader today, thinking I might get some reasonable offers on my 991. You know, offers that were actually in line with the KBB trade-in value. Well, before you know it, I had a whole stream of text messages and phone calls offering me $46.5K for my 2014 Carrera S, a solid 10K less than what I was seeing for a market average when I just tried to calculate fair trade in value on my car. The lesson here to others is don't even bother with this tool when it's time to sell your Porsche. It's nothing but a headache, as I will now have to deal with random car dealers calling me back for the next unknown period of time.
07-30-2019, 07:31 PM
#2
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Slow day at the office?
07-30-2019, 07:57 PM
#3
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07-30-2019, 08:06 PM
#4
I feel your pain.
Wait until the first question they ask you if it has "lane change assist" and "blind spot monitoring". That's usually the first question a non Porsche dealership asks you.
I'm positive a 2014 Carrera S is still in the mid to high 60 range. Possibly more depending on mileage and options... That all important lane change assist.
Wait until the first question they ask you if it has "lane change assist" and "blind spot monitoring". That's usually the first question a non Porsche dealership asks you.
I'm positive a 2014 Carrera S is still in the mid to high 60 range. Possibly more depending on mileage and options... That all important lane change assist.
07-30-2019, 08:33 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
You’ll never get even close with online wholesale buyers. They are looking for desperate sellers. It’s a PITA but you’ll get the most $$$ by selling it yourself. Try listing it on CarGurus or even on here. I sold a car on CarGurus and had a good experience. Good luck.
Disclaimer: I’m not affiliated with CarGurus.
Disclaimer: I’m not affiliated with CarGurus.
07-30-2019, 08:51 PM
#6
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And don't bother with CarMax either...same crap.
07-30-2019, 09:57 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Yeah I clicked that button when I was trading my Z06 in. I thought well maybe I could get a good price on it locally and not deal with shipping. Nope, the offer from a local chevy dealer was far under my trade in value I was offered from out of state P dealer and the KBB value online. Waste of time.
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07-30-2019, 10:22 PM
#8
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In 2010, after some serious buyers remorse, I asked for a price to sell my 2009 BMW to a BMW dealer. When I told him the offer was $10k below KBB, he said he is the one writing the check, not KBB.
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Needsdecaf (07-31-2019)
07-30-2019, 11:14 PM
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I’m sure I might have “lost” ~$8k trading in my RS5, but I saved 7% sales tax on that amount and 5-10 years for not having to strangle the fifth guy who said “I have to ask my wife.”
07-31-2019, 10:38 AM
#11
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KBB and all those other consumer price rating services are nonsense. You want to know what a car is worth used? Find someone with Manheim auction access and ask them. That's what actual DEALERS are paying for cars. Still doesn't guarantee anything, and you have to remember that doesn't include reconditioning, transport or buyer's premium, but it's a good starting point. I've always found that armed with this number for my trades, almost every dealer has fallen in line, because they know that I know what the car is worth, not some made-for-retail estimate.
Still, i have seen times where KBB / Edmunds / Whatever does come close on a trade in value to the auction results. But rarely.
Still, i have seen times where KBB / Edmunds / Whatever does come close on a trade in value to the auction results. But rarely.
07-31-2019, 11:59 AM
#12
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Modern Porsches have so many configurations, options and editions that KBB is often wrong. And always wrong to the low side.
08-03-2019, 07:56 AM
#13
Originally Posted by Needsdecaf;[url=tel:16009556
16009556]KBB and all those other consumer price rating services are nonsense. You want to know what a car is worth used? Find someone with Manheim auction access and ask them. That's what actual DEALERS are paying for cars. Still doesn't guarantee anything, and you have to remember that doesn't include reconditioning, transport or buyer's premium, but it's a good starting point. I've always found that armed with this number for my trades, almost every dealer has fallen in line, because they know that I know what the car is worth, not some made-for-retail estimate.
Still, i have seen times where KBB / Edmunds / Whatever does come close on a trade in value to the auction results. But rarely.
Still, i have seen times where KBB / Edmunds / Whatever does come close on a trade in value to the auction results. But rarely.
08-03-2019, 11:21 AM
#14
I broker as a side gig/hobby.
Whenever somebody tells me "oh, there's a instant no haggle price on the internet. If it's the best price available, why do I even need to try?" I always remind them that car sales are a business. Selling/buying **** at the lowes/highest possible price is a bad business model.
Dealers use that excuse that Internet makes things way too accessible to consumers in terms of "true pricing"...that's BS.
Invoice and blue book values are pretty readily accessible on the webs, but not so much with holdback values, factory money to dealers, auction results, etc...
Sadly, given the culture today and the aversion to aggression/involvement in transactions, people take the internet deals for face value and get gyped.
If you're selling your car, look at the advertised price for cars of similar spec and mileage. Take around 7.5% - 10% percent off. Use that as a starting point.
If you want, DM me your VIN, miles, color, and location and I'll pull auction pricing.
Whenever somebody tells me "oh, there's a instant no haggle price on the internet. If it's the best price available, why do I even need to try?" I always remind them that car sales are a business. Selling/buying **** at the lowes/highest possible price is a bad business model.
Dealers use that excuse that Internet makes things way too accessible to consumers in terms of "true pricing"...that's BS.
Invoice and blue book values are pretty readily accessible on the webs, but not so much with holdback values, factory money to dealers, auction results, etc...
Sadly, given the culture today and the aversion to aggression/involvement in transactions, people take the internet deals for face value and get gyped.
If you're selling your car, look at the advertised price for cars of similar spec and mileage. Take around 7.5% - 10% percent off. Use that as a starting point.
If you want, DM me your VIN, miles, color, and location and I'll pull auction pricing.
08-03-2019, 01:00 PM
#15
I broker as a side gig/hobby.
Whenever somebody tells me "oh, there's a instant no haggle price on the internet. If it's the best price available, why do I even need to try?" I always remind them that car sales are a business. Selling/buying **** at the lowes/highest possible price is a bad business model.
Dealers use that excuse that Internet makes things way too accessible to consumers in terms of "true pricing"...that's BS.
Invoice and blue book values are pretty readily accessible on the webs, but not so much with holdback values, factory money to dealers, auction results, etc...
Sadly, given the culture today and the aversion to aggression/involvement in transactions, people take the internet deals for face value and get gyped.
If you're selling your car, look at the advertised price for cars of similar spec and mileage. Take around 7.5% - 10% percent off. Use that as a starting point.
If you want, DM me your VIN, miles, color, and location and I'll pull auction pricing.
Whenever somebody tells me "oh, there's a instant no haggle price on the internet. If it's the best price available, why do I even need to try?" I always remind them that car sales are a business. Selling/buying **** at the lowes/highest possible price is a bad business model.
Dealers use that excuse that Internet makes things way too accessible to consumers in terms of "true pricing"...that's BS.
Invoice and blue book values are pretty readily accessible on the webs, but not so much with holdback values, factory money to dealers, auction results, etc...
Sadly, given the culture today and the aversion to aggression/involvement in transactions, people take the internet deals for face value and get gyped.
If you're selling your car, look at the advertised price for cars of similar spec and mileage. Take around 7.5% - 10% percent off. Use that as a starting point.
If you want, DM me your VIN, miles, color, and location and I'll pull auction pricing.
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bah212 (08-03-2019)