Split a Cup2 and vaporised new brake pads.
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Split a Cup2 and vaporised new brake pads.
I haven't been around much lately. I have been doing some track work. My last few track days have been eye openers. I split the sidewall of a MPSC2. The passenger rear. Right near the bead. I never hit anything.
This is not the first time i have seen this recently. A friend with a Turbo and Up graded turbo's on it has split 3. Too much lateral torque.
It appears that the Cup 2 side wall is just too soft and falls over and pinches. Pretty much everyone in our track group are changing over to TrofeoR. They seem excellent so far. I have the fronts on. The rears, go on next week.
SO brakes, or perhaps in my case BREAKS.
The very first country run I went on in my car from brand new, I was chasing a Merc GTS, having fun, but he kept doing some high speed stops. I boiled the stock fluid. I changed to Castrol SRF, and have never had that issue since. Which is impressive when you hear of all the other issues.
Whilst on stock pads, I was down to 50% wear, and thought I would do one or two more track days and replace the pads. Wrong. In the first two hours of the day, my brake light came on and ended my day.
I already had the Pagid RSL 29 at home waiting. So I had them fitted up front. But my guy tells me the light is still on. We checked the rear, and they were toast as well. After being dicked around, I was sick of waiting of rear pagid yellows to arrive, so I put brand new OEM pads in the rear.
SO now I have brand new Yellows up front and brand new OEM pads in the rear, and I added Spiegler braided lines, the 6 line kit from BGB motorsport. So I should be set RIGHT? Wrong.
After about 3 x 20 mins sessions, my brakes (Read Breaks) sounded horrible. You guessed it, the brand new OEM pads were on metal. WTF. Shows how good the pagid yellows are. However my front calipers turned a nice shade of Maroon/Purple and now do not match the rear Red ones.
I grab some Circo rear pads, because I still couldn't get rear Pagid yellows after 6 weeks. Hooray, I got to run the entire day. But they squeal on the street.
So I ordered a Brembo GTS BBK. There were no rears in stock anywhere. So they said 5 weeks for rear and 3 weeks for fronts. The Fronts have arrived and have been fitted. Arrhhhhh The sweet sound of silence. Nope, the rears are now squealing there **** off. The rear BBK should be here late next week. The 380 mm fronts look great.
I want to try the FM1000 Brembo pads once all four corners are done. They are sensational for the street. I am hoping that having 380 mm front and rear, and with the extra vanes, that it will provide enough cooling now, that I can run them on the track. I don't really want to go back to pagid yellows. They are fantastic on the track, but squeal very quickly on the street, as soon as the transfers comes off.
With all the mods, my car is fast. Problem is, whilst I get all the added speed dwon the straight, I have to wash off more to take the corner. The front spring rate of GTS is pathetic. 33nm. I guess I am up for coilovers soon.
This is not the first time i have seen this recently. A friend with a Turbo and Up graded turbo's on it has split 3. Too much lateral torque.
It appears that the Cup 2 side wall is just too soft and falls over and pinches. Pretty much everyone in our track group are changing over to TrofeoR. They seem excellent so far. I have the fronts on. The rears, go on next week.
SO brakes, or perhaps in my case BREAKS.
The very first country run I went on in my car from brand new, I was chasing a Merc GTS, having fun, but he kept doing some high speed stops. I boiled the stock fluid. I changed to Castrol SRF, and have never had that issue since. Which is impressive when you hear of all the other issues.
Whilst on stock pads, I was down to 50% wear, and thought I would do one or two more track days and replace the pads. Wrong. In the first two hours of the day, my brake light came on and ended my day.
I already had the Pagid RSL 29 at home waiting. So I had them fitted up front. But my guy tells me the light is still on. We checked the rear, and they were toast as well. After being dicked around, I was sick of waiting of rear pagid yellows to arrive, so I put brand new OEM pads in the rear.
SO now I have brand new Yellows up front and brand new OEM pads in the rear, and I added Spiegler braided lines, the 6 line kit from BGB motorsport. So I should be set RIGHT? Wrong.
After about 3 x 20 mins sessions, my brakes (Read Breaks) sounded horrible. You guessed it, the brand new OEM pads were on metal. WTF. Shows how good the pagid yellows are. However my front calipers turned a nice shade of Maroon/Purple and now do not match the rear Red ones.
I grab some Circo rear pads, because I still couldn't get rear Pagid yellows after 6 weeks. Hooray, I got to run the entire day. But they squeal on the street.
So I ordered a Brembo GTS BBK. There were no rears in stock anywhere. So they said 5 weeks for rear and 3 weeks for fronts. The Fronts have arrived and have been fitted. Arrhhhhh The sweet sound of silence. Nope, the rears are now squealing there **** off. The rear BBK should be here late next week. The 380 mm fronts look great.
I want to try the FM1000 Brembo pads once all four corners are done. They are sensational for the street. I am hoping that having 380 mm front and rear, and with the extra vanes, that it will provide enough cooling now, that I can run them on the track. I don't really want to go back to pagid yellows. They are fantastic on the track, but squeal very quickly on the street, as soon as the transfers comes off.
With all the mods, my car is fast. Problem is, whilst I get all the added speed dwon the straight, I have to wash off more to take the corner. The front spring rate of GTS is pathetic. 33nm. I guess I am up for coilovers soon.
#2
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Brembo GTS
Brembo GTS on Carrera GTS
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Pure745 (07-30-2019)
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Split Cup2
Maroon Brembo
#4
Rennlist Member
are you driving with nannies on? sounds like computer is burning your pads, either that or you need to learn to use less brakes.
also bad idea going on track with 50% brakes.
also I thought pagid doesn't use the sensors, so if your light is on they didn't tie off the sensors behind calipers.
I am not up to speed on 991 so Sorry if my info only applies to 997 and older but think it is correct.
also bad idea going on track with 50% brakes.
also I thought pagid doesn't use the sensors, so if your light is on they didn't tie off the sensors behind calipers.
I am not up to speed on 991 so Sorry if my info only applies to 997 and older but think it is correct.
#5
Rennlist Member
Man those Brembos look amazing. Also, I kinda like the "Brownbo" action on the calipers...reminds me that the car is well used (the black OEM calipers on my base 991.2 have faded to a sickly shade of grey)!!!
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
are you driving with nannies on? sounds like computer is burning your pads, either that or you need to learn to use less brakes.
also bad idea going on track with 50% brakes.
also I thought pagid doesn't use the sensors, so if your light is on they didn't tie off the sensors behind calipers.
I am not up to speed on 991 so Sorry if my info only applies to 997 and older but think it is correct.
also bad idea going on track with 50% brakes.
also I thought pagid doesn't use the sensors, so if your light is on they didn't tie off the sensors behind calipers.
I am not up to speed on 991 so Sorry if my info only applies to 997 and older but think it is correct.
I push the Suspesnion button, but don't hold to turn completely off.
I heard Brownbos, the first time the other day and LMAO. Apparently its very common amongst the EVO guys.
#7
Trending Topics
#9
Rennlist Member
I have not heard of this and I have been running SC2's for years, along with a number of other folks. Is it possible that you are hitting the tires too hard - too soon - with pressure not quite up to the sweet spot.
If you rollover a tire, such as the SC2 there is an issue to investigate. This is not normal. SC2's need time to heat up and I won't press them until they are 32-33 front - 35- 36 rear.
If you rollover a tire, such as the SC2 there is an issue to investigate. This is not normal. SC2's need time to heat up and I won't press them until they are 32-33 front - 35- 36 rear.
#10
Burning Brakes
I felt your pain quickly on my first track day in Feb with this car, which I have noted on the forum previously. Pads had somewhere around 6k street miles (cant remember exactly now) with some aggressive driving on tail of the dragon mixed in, but no track days. They had to of been 75% if I were to guess but I had not taken them off or measured. I toasted them in 3-3.5hrs of track time in one day. The stock PZeros could not deal with the heat either. They delaminated in patches. I now have 1 track event (2 days) on my new rotor/pad/ and MPSC2 setup and the wear was negligible. I used between 1-1.5 mm on each pad compared to a whole pad and 1-1.5 32nds of tire wear compared to trashing tires. Makes a big difference having right brakes and tires. I love my car, but the stock brake setup is a disappointment for track use. I think it is expected to need to change tires on most cars for serious track use, but expected a little more from brakes on a Porsche. This is my first PCar though, so maybe it is a normal problem on PCar I dont know.
I am curious though, how many days do you have on those toasted calipers?
Were the MPSC2s N1 or N0?
I am curious though, how many days do you have on those toasted calipers?
Were the MPSC2s N1 or N0?
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I forgot to push that button, and that is one of the factors of vapourising a brand new set of rear pads. The other is, they could not keep up with the pagid Yellows on the front. It wasn't deliberate, just couldn't get stock.
The car is very fast. I need it to handle now. Front springs at 33n/mm are a joke. I am organising tractive coilovers now. (Should be about 6 weeks away.)
Did you get your PDK issues sorted? I asked COBB about the PDK software up grade, but they are non committal and saying it would be at least 3 months away. Which in business usually means its not a priority.
I felt your pain quickly on my first track day in Feb with this car, which I have noted on the forum previously. Pads had somewhere around 6k street miles (cant remember exactly now) with some aggressive driving on tail of the dragon mixed in, but no track days. They had to of been 75% if I were to guess but I had not taken them off or measured. I toasted them in 3-3.5hrs of track time in one day. The stock PZeros could not deal with the heat either. They delaminated in patches. I now have 1 track event (2 days) on my new rotor/pad/ and MPSC2 setup and the wear was negligible. I used between 1-1.5 mm on each pad compared to a whole pad and 1-1.5 32nds of tire wear compared to trashing tires. Makes a big difference having right brakes and tires. I love my car, but the stock brake setup is a disappointment for track use. I think it is expected to need to change tires on most cars for serious track use, but expected a little more from brakes on a Porsche. This is my first PCar though, so maybe it is a normal problem on PCar I dont know.
I am curious though, how many days do you have on those toasted calipers?
Were the MPSC2s N1 or N0?
I am curious though, how many days do you have on those toasted calipers?
Were the MPSC2s N1 or N0?
#12
I track my 991.2 S and I’ve found the car to be very hard on consumables. 3 track days on Sport Cup 2 N1s and 4 days on DS 11.1 pads. Half the life compared to my GT4. The weight is the main enemy here and I’ve come to the conclusion that a dedicated track car, lighter with lower consumables cost is the way to go and will be safer and pay for itself in the long run compared to running the C2S. Until I find that track car I’m moving away from SC2s and will be fitting Toyo R888R. I’ll report back after a few track days.
#13
Burning Brakes
I would think 29F 32R is too low. I aimed for 32F 35R couple weeks ago on MPSC2 N1s. I started sessions out about 28F 31R and didnt push too much on first couple laps when they were that low. My quickest lap times seemed to be about halfway through the sessions when tires were little above the targeted temp. I plan to target 34F 37R next track day and see how that goes. I may move back to 32 35 depending how it goes.
#14
Rennlist Member
4 Pt 0,
Try matching pads front and rear before you try the Tractives. I missed matched OEM GT3 pads front with stock pads rear and the grabbier front pads caused the nose to dive, and front ABS to engage early. When I switched to RE10's, the rears were backordered, so I installed the fronts. Made it even worse, since the RE10 have an even higher torque mu.
Now I have matching RE10 front and rear, the nose doesn't dive and the braking is much better.
First session I go out cold 26, but use straight line braking to heat the tires up and don't corner hard till I see 30. So a couple throw away laps. I'll be close to 34/36 at the end and bleed to 30/32 hot for the remaining sessions. No problems with sidewall splitting and I'm on my 4th set of Cup2's/Dunlops. Cheers
Try matching pads front and rear before you try the Tractives. I missed matched OEM GT3 pads front with stock pads rear and the grabbier front pads caused the nose to dive, and front ABS to engage early. When I switched to RE10's, the rears were backordered, so I installed the fronts. Made it even worse, since the RE10 have an even higher torque mu.
Now I have matching RE10 front and rear, the nose doesn't dive and the braking is much better.
First session I go out cold 26, but use straight line braking to heat the tires up and don't corner hard till I see 30. So a couple throw away laps. I'll be close to 34/36 at the end and bleed to 30/32 hot for the remaining sessions. No problems with sidewall splitting and I'm on my 4th set of Cup2's/Dunlops. Cheers
#15
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I track my 991.2 S and I’ve found the car to be very hard on consumables. 3 track days on Sport Cup 2 N1s and 4 days on DS 11.1 pads. Half the life compared to my GT4. The weight is the main enemy here and I’ve come to the conclusion that a dedicated track car, lighter with lower consumables cost is the way to go and will be safer and pay for itself in the long run compared to running the C2S. Until I find that track car I’m moving away from SC2s and will be fitting Toyo R888R. I’ll report back after a few track days.
I would think 29F 32R is too low. I aimed for 32F 35R couple weeks ago on MPSC2 N1s. I started sessions out about 28F 31R and didnt push too much on first couple laps when they were that low. My quickest lap times seemed to be about halfway through the sessions when tires were little above the targeted temp. I plan to target 34F 37R next track day and see how that goes. I may move back to 32 35 depending how it goes.
4 Pt 0,
Try matching pads front and rear before you try the Tractives. I missed matched OEM GT3 pads front with stock pads rear and the grabbier front pads caused the nose to dive, and front ABS to engage early. When I switched to RE10's, the rears were backordered, so I installed the fronts. Made it even worse, since the RE10 have an even higher torque mu.
Now I have matching RE10 front and rear, the nose doesn't dive and the braking is much better.
First session I go out cold 26, but use straight line braking to heat the tires up and don't corner hard till I see 30. So a couple throw away laps. I'll be close to 34/36 at the end and bleed to 30/32 hot for the remaining sessions. No problems with sidewall splitting and I'm on my 4th set of Cup2's/Dunlops. Cheers
Try matching pads front and rear before you try the Tractives. I missed matched OEM GT3 pads front with stock pads rear and the grabbier front pads caused the nose to dive, and front ABS to engage early. When I switched to RE10's, the rears were backordered, so I installed the fronts. Made it even worse, since the RE10 have an even higher torque mu.
Now I have matching RE10 front and rear, the nose doesn't dive and the braking is much better.
First session I go out cold 26, but use straight line braking to heat the tires up and don't corner hard till I see 30. So a couple throw away laps. I'll be close to 34/36 at the end and bleed to 30/32 hot for the remaining sessions. No problems with sidewall splitting and I'm on my 4th set of Cup2's/Dunlops. Cheers
My car doesn't nose dive anymore. (It was shocking from stock) I have all the elephant racing adjustable bars. Including the anti-dive, anti squat bars. That made a huge difference. So I am well and truely ready for full coilovers.
I ran nitrogen for awhile. It was a PITA topping up after track days. When they did the initial let down and fill up, they did not jack the car up. They just let the tyre down and filled with nitrogen. I am wondering did it cause the tyre to pinch and weaken it. Or maybe it was damaged when putting it on. I don't know. I will try 30/32 as the back tends t slide. My car suffers more from oversteer than understeer.
I have ordered them. They said 4-6 weeks. Regards 4.0