that was my line of thinking as well 👍 thanks

5k or 6 months whichever comes first for me.

I am going to start following the advice from that expert in GA and do every six months. Until this year, my car was still under CPO and being serviced by dealer. It is not that extra expense to do semi-annual. I think I am also going to switch to Motul 8100 x-cess 5w40 (dealership was using Mobil1). Regarding the other advice, I have been using Shell premium since I got the car

Any reason not to use Motul 5W40 X-Cess 8100 in the 1.2 cars?

Funny you should say that. I saved all of my lottery money and got the bearings done a week ago, also the plugs and motor mounts, 27,632 miles and the wear is unacceptable.

So now I'm reading this depressing thread...
I don't track nor drive in the winter but most trips are regrettably short.
So I'm fine with more frequent oil changes.
Is the consensus to go with 3months/3k miles or 6months/6k miles?

Are these the original spark plugs? Why are they so "black"? Is the erosion natural and reasonable or is there a bore score detected?

These threads teach a lot but it is frustrating to read that there is no reliable engine.

I'm considering switching to 997.2 or 991.1 and all that stuff gets the craving... :( Can only Metzger sleep soundly? Thoughts ..

Given the thread’s earlier reference to E9x owners and the fact that there are 8 plugs and rod bearings (from a V8 I assume) I’d say that’s from his E9x M3 and not a 9A1 therefore no bore score likely involved :)

Oh goodness... to quote Heath Ledger as The Joker- "And here, we, go!"

Having had a 2003 996 on original IMS/RMS for almost 30 months, and neither of my top-tier techs in the Houston area never once replacing such bearing for fault, or otherwise in their combined experience, I can tell from firsthand experience how overblown that whole deal is. But if you can't see sleep at night without it, there are cheap options to 'fix' it, until you have to 'fix' it again, depending on who sells it to you... Even asked my local PCA chapter and again, not once has anyone experienced this issue, so who knows. Not saying it doesn't happen, but, it certainly is overhyped from real-world involvement with owners who also TAKE CARE of their vehicles... many 996s/997.1s were dailys and rode hard and put away wet and it shows in the classifieds for many cars.

I see people talking about Honda/Toyota/etc. 'quality' in this thread, which having supposedly the 'most reliable car' in the world in a Lexus RX350, I can certainly attest that even with the internal functions, like the damn door locks, my has Lexus failed much more than my 2003 C4S. I mean really- Denso/Toyota can't make door locks that can't last for more than 6 years?? Crazy. And it's not like Lexus service is really any more affordable than Porsche when it comes to parts like that.

Bore scoring issue is resolved in the 9A2? I believe aka the 991.2

991.1 scored cylinder #4
 

My 2013 911 991.1 has 16000 kilometers (9000 miles) still original tires and brakes but just discovered at least 1 badly scored cylinders. I am in contact with Porsche to see if they will help given the car has never been tracked and driven normally.

what prompted the cylinder inspection?

I just noticed this noise from the right side of the engine on my 2013 C4S today. Sounds a little different to me than some of the bore scoring videos I’ve seen. Anyone have thoughts?

That engine sounds normal to me. Can you be more specific in describing the noise that concerns you?

Just saw this quote and as an aerospace engineer myself this is completely unrealistic and frankly insane advice. Risk management requires an evaluation of both the likelihood and consequence, not just fretting about worst-case scenarios. Yes the consequence may be high but by virtually all accounts the likelihood of bore scoring on a 9A1 or 9A2 is very low (probably much less than 1% to date). If you can get an extended warranty for 1% the cost of an engine rebuild then this advice might make sense. But you can't, it will cost you as much as 20% the rebuild cost for 5 years of coverage. This makes zero financial sense and is the reason that engineers usually aren't in charge of risk management. To us anything higher than zero risk is unacceptable, but that is not how the world works, sometimes things blow up. The vast majority of folks would be far better off self-insuring against this extremely unlikely event.

Completely agree with the mitigation steps (frequent oil changes, don't lug, easy does it until the oil is warmed up, etc.) as these have a very low cost and no downside (unless you pay for $500 dealer oil changes which is a whole different issue).

I’ve decided to stop worrying and learn to love the bomb. If the engine blows I’ll send it off to Flat 6 or Guntherwerks or some shop like that to rebuild, bore/stroke out to 4L, up redline to 8,000+ rpm and see if individual throttle bodies can be added and it will still be cheaper and more comfortable than a GT3 plus have useable backseats. I don’t need the suspension/chassis upgrades to match GT3; I already feel as though the Earth has tilted on its axis every time I take a corner on the track hanging on for dear life.

If it doesn’t blow then I’ll buy a used GT3 and start saving for a Speedster and those glorious ITB’s it already has.

Dream big people and worry less. We drive awesome cars.