991.2 gts brake pad options
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
991.2 gts brake pad options
I am looking for feedback from anyone who has a more agressive brake pad on their S/GTS. Am I correct that these 2 share brakes, but GT3/Turbos are different? I have a 991.2 GTS and need a pad that will last longer and less fade on track. I used a minimally used set of OEM pads completely up along with front rotors yesterday at the track. I am looking for more agressive, but not something that is too loud for street use. Car will probably see 3 more track weekends this year and 10,000 street miles. Centerlock wheels make swapping pads not ideal situation. Thank you for any suggestions and feedback on options. I am not really concerned about dust and have steel rotors.
#2
Pagid RSL 29 Yellow. They do squeal on the street, but so do the stock pads.
#3
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Marineland FL
Posts: 12,535
Likes: 0
Received 3,460 Likes
on
2,361 Posts
#4
Daily driving with very short trips, cleans the transfer off and they squeal again. After a track day they are quiet for weeks, as they have plenty of transfer. But the squeal always comes back from short trips that eventually cleans it all off again. It doesn't bother me.
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I had some carbotech xp8 and xp10s on my vette. They squeeled ALOT! Was like a dump truck coming to a stop every time I just tapped the breaks at slow speeds. Could you try to elaborate on squeeling? I would really appreciate it!
#6
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Marineland FL
Posts: 12,535
Likes: 0
Received 3,460 Likes
on
2,361 Posts
Daily driving with very short trips, cleans the transfer off and they squeal again. After a track day they are quiet for weeks, as they have plenty of transfer. But the squeal always comes back from short trips that eventually cleans it all off again. It doesn't bother me.
#7
Its usually when driving very slow, just before you come to a complete stop, there is a little squeal. Nothing at high seed at all. Just the last 10 feet of stopping, and always at very low speed about to stop.
Trending Topics
#8
#9
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Marineland FL
Posts: 12,535
Likes: 0
Received 3,460 Likes
on
2,361 Posts
Nah, that has nothing to do with it since I have had other ones with the same results, and I have done every type of driving during the 1200 miles so if they were going to squeak it would have happened already.
#10
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I have found the stocks relatively quiet with occasional noises , but not a lot
#11
Before the car comes to a complete stop, I always ease off the brakes, so the passengers don't get whiplash. Its just a small squeal in the last bit before stopping, maybe because I am easing off the brakes. It requires less brake force to stop a car from 10km/hrs than from 60 km/hr. So the initial input at 60km'hrs is not necessary once you are at 10km/hr. So i guess it may be the lifting off the pedal, at the last bit for a completely smooth, seemless stop that may cause the light squeal. As I said, it doesn't bother me at all.
#12
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Before the car comes to a complete stop, I always ease off the brakes, so the passengers don't get whiplash. Its just a small squeal in the last bit before stopping, maybe because I am easing off the brakes. It requires less brake force to stop a car from 10km/hrs than from 60 km/hr. So the initial input at 60km'hrs is not necessary once you are at 10km/hr. So i guess it may be the lifting off the pedal, at the last bit for a completely smooth, seemless stop that may cause the light squeal. As I said, it doesn't bother me at all.
#13
Pagid RSL29 pad shapes 4908 and 4909 (same for S and GTS)
Strong initial bite without being overly aggressive and good modulation.
Excellent pad, very certain, strong brake torque with high repeatability of bite and feel.
However, they are an endurance formulation 'track' pad so need heat before they are at maximum effectiveness, will squeal and will dust.
Strong initial bite without being overly aggressive and good modulation.
Excellent pad, very certain, strong brake torque with high repeatability of bite and feel.
However, they are an endurance formulation 'track' pad so need heat before they are at maximum effectiveness, will squeal and will dust.
Last edited by groundhog; 02-10-2019 at 04:10 AM.
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
ground hog and 4 point 0,
Have you swapped rotors or just use stock ones? My fronts are trash so if I am going to upgrade those now would be my chance. Thanks!
Have you swapped rotors or just use stock ones? My fronts are trash so if I am going to upgrade those now would be my chance. Thanks!
#15
Three Wheelin'
I have a 2009 Boxster that I track regularly. Not sure how much of a DIY you are but suggest you seriously consider Tarett brake caliper studs. Get the stud kit for the brake line brackets also. You will have to unbolt the brake line bracket to give enough line flex to lift the caliper off of the stud. You have the upgraded brake caliper with the center brace which requires you remove the calipers to replace pads. The steel brake caliper bolts into the aluminum knuckle are too easily stripped. Cup cars have studs. I use Hawk DTC-60s on a dedicated track rotor for the front and OEM on the back. Boxsters don't use as much rear brake so the OEM pads work fine and last. Pagid has great pads, but as groundhog indicated they will squeak and make much more dust. My Hawks squeak loudly the last few feet of a street stop. I think all track pads will squeak. Porsche OEM pads have built in silencers and obviously a different compound. I just bought Hawk street pads to try in between track events to try and eliminate street squeak. I don't have the reinforce calipers so I can change pads (without the big silencer) without removing the caliper. If there is a track pad that does squeak I'd like to know. Track pad dust is corrosive so thoroughly clean the wheels right away. If you haven't yet invest in a good wheel wax especially if you get track pads. Again if you have not upgrade to a racing brake fluid like ATP 2. I suspect your brake fade is the OEM pads getting too hot, but boiling your brake fluid is a much bigger brake failure issue. The Potomac PCA requires brake flush every 3 months for OEM brake fluid and 6 months for racing brake fluid.