Detailing and washing do's and don'ts?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Detailing and washing do's and don'ts?
I've been cleaning my own cars for many years (always use the two bucket method with grit guards, microfiber towels, etc), but am new to the Porsche world and was wondering if there were any key DO's or DON'Ts when cleaning my 991? Especially a white one.
Feel free to point me to a thread if there is one but I didn't see any after a few searches.
Same question as applies to the interior....any products to avoid? I've never had perforated seats before so how concerned should I be about getting cleaning products into the holes?
Favorite products either interior or exterior?
I haven't done a polish or wax/sealant yet on the Porsche, but am moderately skilled at paint correction with a Porter Cable 7424XP.
Random pic of my baby's first bath under my ownership (yes, I wash the car indoors.)
Feel free to point me to a thread if there is one but I didn't see any after a few searches.
Same question as applies to the interior....any products to avoid? I've never had perforated seats before so how concerned should I be about getting cleaning products into the holes?
Favorite products either interior or exterior?
I haven't done a polish or wax/sealant yet on the Porsche, but am moderately skilled at paint correction with a Porter Cable 7424XP.
Random pic of my baby's first bath under my ownership (yes, I wash the car indoors.)
#2
Hello, nice car.
I am a former semi pro detailer. I find that there's too much marketing going on with the dos and don'ts to sell a product. Many things are way too time consuming for a home setup.
My advice is to leave the polishing and waxing to a pro as you can easily have an accident that would cause major headache... If something happens, it's on them.
Just don't touch the paint. Ever. Stick to your foam cannon and two bucket method(which I am also finding too messy and time consuming). Dont trust too much into waterless washes unless you've got PPF.
Best thing to do is get a full detail plus PPF or at the least a ceramic coating. Do your glass and wheels too. Upkeep your black plastics and rubbers. You should be good to go.
The only way I'd stick to traditional detailing (clay, polish, wax etc) is if I was like Bob Z and had literally nothing but time on my hands. AKA a hobby..
For the interior.. I find wetting a towel prior to going for the seats works well on these seats. I've soaked them and wiped before. It works just fine but when you turn on your heated/ventilated seats you'll get a moldy wet rag scent until the water dries(15 minutes or so).
Dont use degreasers inside. I like to use a PH balanced product like chemical guys nonsense and a boars hair brush. Apply, agitate and wipe.
I am a former semi pro detailer. I find that there's too much marketing going on with the dos and don'ts to sell a product. Many things are way too time consuming for a home setup.
My advice is to leave the polishing and waxing to a pro as you can easily have an accident that would cause major headache... If something happens, it's on them.
Just don't touch the paint. Ever. Stick to your foam cannon and two bucket method(which I am also finding too messy and time consuming). Dont trust too much into waterless washes unless you've got PPF.
Best thing to do is get a full detail plus PPF or at the least a ceramic coating. Do your glass and wheels too. Upkeep your black plastics and rubbers. You should be good to go.
The only way I'd stick to traditional detailing (clay, polish, wax etc) is if I was like Bob Z and had literally nothing but time on my hands. AKA a hobby..
For the interior.. I find wetting a towel prior to going for the seats works well on these seats. I've soaked them and wiped before. It works just fine but when you turn on your heated/ventilated seats you'll get a moldy wet rag scent until the water dries(15 minutes or so).
Dont use degreasers inside. I like to use a PH balanced product like chemical guys nonsense and a boars hair brush. Apply, agitate and wipe.
#3
For the interior I like 303 Aerospace. Or 303 Protectant if it is easier for you to find locally.
Big fan of Jescar Power Lock Plus in terms of paint sealants. After each wash spray a little Griots Spray On Wax and you'll be good to go for a long time.
Another one I've been liking post-wash is Meguiar's Ultimate Fast Finish. Sometimes I use that instead of the Griots.
My favorite soap for maintenance washes with the foam cannon is Chemical Guys Mr Pink. Also use Meguiar's Gold Class sometimes.
Big fan of Jescar Power Lock Plus in terms of paint sealants. After each wash spray a little Griots Spray On Wax and you'll be good to go for a long time.
Another one I've been liking post-wash is Meguiar's Ultimate Fast Finish. Sometimes I use that instead of the Griots.
My favorite soap for maintenance washes with the foam cannon is Chemical Guys Mr Pink. Also use Meguiar's Gold Class sometimes.
#4
Rennlist Member
At the end of the day, it's a car.
What applies in terms of detailing for other cars, applies to Porsche's as well.
You got a good basis with the 2 bucket, grit guard, microfiber towels etc...I don't think you need anything else.
Ceramic coating is something I'd recommend. If your skilled with polishing and correcting paint, applying a coating should not be too difficult.
What applies in terms of detailing for other cars, applies to Porsche's as well.
You got a good basis with the 2 bucket, grit guard, microfiber towels etc...I don't think you need anything else.
Ceramic coating is something I'd recommend. If your skilled with polishing and correcting paint, applying a coating should not be too difficult.
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Good tips, thanks! I also like the 303 aerospace on the interior and rubber bits.
Anything in particular that people use for the gauge faces? On others cars those are often cheap plastic and easy to scratch. I usually just use the 303 on them with an MF towel.
I also picked up some of this Gyeon stuff with my last order, but have yet to try it out:
https://www.detailedimage.com/Gyeon-...423/500-ml-S1/
Normally, for sealant I use Blackfire Wet Diamond, which I've always loved as it's easy to apply and remove. But my past few cars have been darker cars (blue) and I'm not sure a white car will ever had the "depth" to the paint that a darker color will.
I also noticed the aluminum inlays on the engine cover (where the fans are) look like the previous owner used something on them that hurt the finish. Not a big deal as they're normally hidden but I want to try to clean or polish them up in the future. (Not a great photo of the issue, but sort of gives you the idea.)
Anything in particular that people use for the gauge faces? On others cars those are often cheap plastic and easy to scratch. I usually just use the 303 on them with an MF towel.
I also picked up some of this Gyeon stuff with my last order, but have yet to try it out:
https://www.detailedimage.com/Gyeon-...423/500-ml-S1/
Normally, for sealant I use Blackfire Wet Diamond, which I've always loved as it's easy to apply and remove. But my past few cars have been darker cars (blue) and I'm not sure a white car will ever had the "depth" to the paint that a darker color will.
I also noticed the aluminum inlays on the engine cover (where the fans are) look like the previous owner used something on them that hurt the finish. Not a big deal as they're normally hidden but I want to try to clean or polish them up in the future. (Not a great photo of the issue, but sort of gives you the idea.)
#7
Burning Brakes
[QUOTE=Aatish;15587491]At the end of the day, it's a car.
What applies in terms of detailing for other cars, applies to Porsche's as well.
You got a good basis with the 2 bucket, grit guard, microfiber towels etc...I don't think you need anything else.
I agree with this ^
I will add, I'm a big fan of the foam gun, A bit messy, but works well. I love Zaino products. They're great and very easy to use. Something new I want to try on the tires is - McKees 37. Some pretty good reviews. Basically a tire shine sealant that last much longer than the usual products.
https://www.autogeek.net/dp-tire-coating.html
What applies in terms of detailing for other cars, applies to Porsche's as well.
You got a good basis with the 2 bucket, grit guard, microfiber towels etc...I don't think you need anything else.
I agree with this ^
I will add, I'm a big fan of the foam gun, A bit messy, but works well. I love Zaino products. They're great and very easy to use. Something new I want to try on the tires is - McKees 37. Some pretty good reviews. Basically a tire shine sealant that last much longer than the usual products.
https://www.autogeek.net/dp-tire-coating.html
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#8
Rennlist Member
Don't use two buckets and use sand at bottom to filter particles, then never forget the crisco for awesome gloss! Wipe crisco off with oven mitts. Olive oil for leather, electric razor for level carpet and NEVER forget the BEER!!!!!!
#9
Instructor
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Haha, yes but only during droughts. They passed a law that the police can actually fine you if you're washing your car without a nozzle on your hose (meaning just letting it run freely), but honestly who does that anyway?
#12
Burning Brakes
#13
Pretty cool that you have access to a hose in the garage! I have do to a waterless wash in my garage so currently I use ONR. Once I run out, I'll likely switch to the Ammo kit which I've heard good things about. https://www.ammonyc.com/shop/hoseless-lift-kit-150/
I attempted to do a paint correction on mine about a year ago with my Porter Cable but was only able to get 50% of the swirls out...need to attempt again. Probably was using wrong pads or need better cutting / polishing products...and I'm also an amateur.
Btw, the frunk opens if you wave your hand over it. The only time this feature seems to work for me is when washing the car so watch out for that.
For interior detailing, I use Leather Master Strong cleaner followed by Leather Master Vital. This stuff works great for full leather and keeps the matte OEM look going. If you want to try some of the leather master products out, feel free to let me know and you can try some of mine.
I attempted to do a paint correction on mine about a year ago with my Porter Cable but was only able to get 50% of the swirls out...need to attempt again. Probably was using wrong pads or need better cutting / polishing products...and I'm also an amateur.
Btw, the frunk opens if you wave your hand over it. The only time this feature seems to work for me is when washing the car so watch out for that.
For interior detailing, I use Leather Master Strong cleaner followed by Leather Master Vital. This stuff works great for full leather and keeps the matte OEM look going. If you want to try some of the leather master products out, feel free to let me know and you can try some of mine.
#14
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Plastic, like gauges faces, should be cleaned with Novus Plastic Polish (https://www.novuspolish.com/) which I started using on motorcycle shields many moons ago.
And even though I have a lot of free time cleaning is not how I wish to use it, and it hurts my back as well so I like to clean quickly, but correctly. I use OptiRinse since my car is OptiCoated (Plus) and it has PPF, which makes it pretty easy with good microfibers & waffle towels.
And even though I have a lot of free time cleaning is not how I wish to use it, and it hurts my back as well so I like to clean quickly, but correctly. I use OptiRinse since my car is OptiCoated (Plus) and it has PPF, which makes it pretty easy with good microfibers & waffle towels.
#15
Rennlist Member