Great answer! I'm in the middle as I have had mine on the track twice and I just passed 1500 miles. I short shifted and did not go to redline but 5k and 6k bursts are fun so.....

I will probably do a few oil tests through blackstone over time just in case but I'm not worried about anything breaking at this point.....

Just drive it and be kind the first 1500 miles but dont be afraid to have a little fun. YMMV......

 

Little embarrassed about this but for some reason i thought i had to wait till 4K miles to go over 4K rpm... then i broke down read my manual (for the first time) ... and realized i've waited too long (at 2450).. online it says 2K to go crazy. but my manual says 1875 miles.

Just came back from first blast upto 7200 rpm.... my god! this thing explodes at 5K and above. It sound insane between 5-6K

Doesn't seem worth much to go above 7K.

now to try launch control....

 

That is why one should read an owner's manual as soon as they get a new car, cover to cover.

 

Less typing.. more launching!
you have some catching up to do
safe motoring

 

The rational side of me agrees, but I gotten this far in life from never reading one for anything.

i mean 95% of the car was intuitive.

So glad I’ve never had the old manual heating system found on much older 911s.

 

Break in has been discussed numerous times b4. Engines break in after a certain number of revolutions, not miles. Miles is a measure of how many revolutions the wheel turns. Engine revolutions depend on what gear you are in. If you cruise in manual mode at 3000-3500 rpm, your engine will break in in half the miles that it would cruising at 1500-1750 rpm. Forget the 2 overdrive gears during breakin. They just prolong the breakin process and detract from the fun of driving a 911.
Everybody get this?

 

Or the 2-piece top of a 987.2 Boxster Spyder? Ha!

 

That is a piece off cake compared to a first Gen Viper's top...I drove it in the rain one day just to not put the top together.

 

Where's Chuck on this point?

 

This is how I do it, and I totally agree.

 

Rick DeMan says go ahead and rip on the engine day one, they’ll work fine, not have longevity issue, but the ones that are properly broken in always end up making more power. Do with his recommendation as you will, call it 90’s mentality or whatever, but I guarantee you don’t know a fraction of what he does about building Porsche engines.

 

Holy zombie thread batman!

Since I have a Carrera T, and I broke it in (see below), and I'm a mechanical engineer who has both designed, machined, and built multiple types of ICE from micro-displacement to aviation prototypes, to industrial diesels, for multiple types of applications, I'll chime in.

Break-in periods were *far* more important in the pre-cnc days - but they are still useful. Even with precision machining, parts (piston rings and cylinder walls) still "seat" over a period of time. The key thing is to ensure they do so at a gradual rate rather than too quickly - and this is mostly a function of operating temperature in today's engines. Thermal expansion is how the wear surfaces interact. Great modern oils massively improve the interaction - such that its extraordinarily rare that a precision machined mated surface incurs a flaw in break-in. In my experience it is the oils that really drive this fact, and why its very important not to change the oil too early (e.g. in the 1st few 100 miles).

The other area I still emphasize in break-in is the engine braking. Engine braking (holding a gear to slow the vehicle mechanically) places a different set of loads on the cylinders, especially in a boxer engine. In old boxer engine designs it was important to break them in this way, so as to wear the rings in a way that will minimize piston slap over the lifetime of the engine. Modern rings are designed for this from the start, but I still feel like "it cant hurt".

I did a careful break-in with my car, and it runs great. I've driven a few of the PDE cars that were thrashed from day 1 and they are great too. Since most of these engines will never see the other side of 250K miles, I doubt it matters too much. However, there are engineering reasons to think about it.

For aircraft engines that operate at different thermal and load conditions, and have different safety considerations, I think it matters *a lot* more!

Cheers!

 

Thank you, mr. Dew for caring and your shared insight. You have the distinction of being my first official conversation on this forum. I've got a new T debarking the boat here in about a week, and I am looking forward (giddy is more like it) to enjoying every mile of it--from the first to the last. It's purely anecdotal, and based on my own mere intra-driver data, but the Porsche's that I have put through a more lively break-in seam to feel better to me over the time, and actually remain more enjoyable--and dependable. From start to finish. I have broken in 8 Porsche's that way since my first C4S Cab purchased new in 2006. Of course, I never "rip on the engine" out of the box, or when cold, but neither do I next-level up my anxiety and fastidious meter so I attain the perfect break-in parameters. Stress over a little high rev here and there defeats the pure pleasure of owning a 911--according to me. I am not sure who Mr. DeMan is, but he sounds like a real gem of a technical resource and I'd never go head to head with him in rebuilding a Porsche engine. Nevertheless, I found a nice resonance with Psorcery's comment, hence my nod of agreement. I tend to run OCD anyway, and driving let's me put that away for a minute and find pure driving pleasure. A fraction more power is not why I have ordered the 992 T, just mega smiles

 

Enjoy the new T! What color did you order?

If you’re curious who Rick DeMan is,

https://demanmotorsport.com

He’s known for building some of the best Porsche engines you can buy, for race cars or street cars.