Touch up paint for Satin Black GTS wheels?
#16
Thanks all for the suggestions.
I promised to report back on the VHT Satin Black Wheel Paint, which you can get from Amazon and elsewhere.
It's a very good match. I had scraped sections on three wheels and they've all but vanished. You really have to be looking for them to find them.
I used DupliColor Prep Wax and Grease remover on an old t-shirt to clean the damaged areas, then applied the wheel paint by dabbing with those tiny, disposable artist brushes.
The deeper damage took two coats, but all sections are looking good now.
I promised to report back on the VHT Satin Black Wheel Paint, which you can get from Amazon and elsewhere.
It's a very good match. I had scraped sections on three wheels and they've all but vanished. You really have to be looking for them to find them.
I used DupliColor Prep Wax and Grease remover on an old t-shirt to clean the damaged areas, then applied the wheel paint by dabbing with those tiny, disposable artist brushes.
The deeper damage took two coats, but all sections are looking good now.
#17
Thanks all for the suggestions.
I promised to report back on the VHT Satin Black Wheel Paint, which you can get from Amazon and elsewhere.
It's a very good match. I had scraped sections on three wheels and they've all but vanished. You really have to be looking for them to find them.
I used DupliColor Prep Wax and Grease remover on an old t-shirt to clean the damaged areas, then applied the wheel paint by dabbing with those tiny, disposable artist brushes.
The deeper damage took two coats, but all sections are looking good now.
I promised to report back on the VHT Satin Black Wheel Paint, which you can get from Amazon and elsewhere.
It's a very good match. I had scraped sections on three wheels and they've all but vanished. You really have to be looking for them to find them.
I used DupliColor Prep Wax and Grease remover on an old t-shirt to clean the damaged areas, then applied the wheel paint by dabbing with those tiny, disposable artist brushes.
The deeper damage took two coats, but all sections are looking good now.
#20
Sadly, I wasn't quite that organized.
However, having looked at the repairs under a strong flashlight this evening, I think I can do better.
The surfaces aren't even with the rest of the rim, and the texture still looks gouged out.
Think I'm going to try some sanding and repair putty, then repaint.
This time, maybe I'll get pics.
However, having looked at the repairs under a strong flashlight this evening, I think I can do better.
The surfaces aren't even with the rest of the rim, and the texture still looks gouged out.
Think I'm going to try some sanding and repair putty, then repaint.
This time, maybe I'll get pics.
#21
#22
Ok, more pics. First, big thanks to Rennlist user DrCollie. I'm trying his wheel repair method from his thread here: https://rennlist.com/forums/991/1076...air-hre-s.html
I'm going to fill in the metal damage with JB Weld SteelStik. First step is to roughen the surface a little with sand paper (I used 100 grit) and degrease it (I used DupliColor Paint Prep):
Next, you apply and (attempt to) mold the SteelStik epoxy putty so it matches the original metal plus a little extra:
That's green detailing tape protecting the tire. Pretty sure I used too much Steelstik.
After an hour, you sand the Steelstick to blend into the existing metal. I used 150 grit initially (per DrCollie) and then 1500 to wet sand:
Does it look like I've significantly increased the size of the wound? Ug. Hoping the paint works out so that's not a problem.
And now it's time to. . . wait for some VHT engine primer to be delivered. It seems that's what they recommend before using their Satin Black Wheel Paint.
More soon.
I'm going to fill in the metal damage with JB Weld SteelStik. First step is to roughen the surface a little with sand paper (I used 100 grit) and degrease it (I used DupliColor Paint Prep):
Next, you apply and (attempt to) mold the SteelStik epoxy putty so it matches the original metal plus a little extra:
That's green detailing tape protecting the tire. Pretty sure I used too much Steelstik.
After an hour, you sand the Steelstick to blend into the existing metal. I used 150 grit initially (per DrCollie) and then 1500 to wet sand:
Does it look like I've significantly increased the size of the wound? Ug. Hoping the paint works out so that's not a problem.
And now it's time to. . . wait for some VHT engine primer to be delivered. It seems that's what they recommend before using their Satin Black Wheel Paint.
More soon.
#25
Ok, more pics. But first, my general advice - don't mess with these wheels. They're outstanding wheels of course, but the satin finish makes it really difficult to do a normal paint repair. I think it's fair to say that everything I did beyond just dabbing on a little touch-up paint made the wheel look worse. But you can judge from the pics.
So, wrapped up and ready to spray the primer. Yes, there's actually a wheel in there, but it would also double nicely as a Halloween lawn ornament.
Now primed and wet-sanded after an hour with 1,000 grit. The wet sanding removed more primer than intended.
After two coats of the VHT Satin Black wheel paint:
I'm not sure what all that white stuff is around the paint, but I'd read a complaint about it and the VHT wheel paint on another forum. I figured a little wet-sanding with 2500 grit would solve it. As you'll see, not so much.
From a distance, the wheel doesn't look bad. But I think I should have quit back when I just had a semi-visible, semi-touched-up scrape. Particularly given the amount of time and effort involved in the further repair.
So, wrapped up and ready to spray the primer. Yes, there's actually a wheel in there, but it would also double nicely as a Halloween lawn ornament.
Now primed and wet-sanded after an hour with 1,000 grit. The wet sanding removed more primer than intended.
After two coats of the VHT Satin Black wheel paint:
I'm not sure what all that white stuff is around the paint, but I'd read a complaint about it and the VHT wheel paint on another forum. I figured a little wet-sanding with 2500 grit would solve it. As you'll see, not so much.
From a distance, the wheel doesn't look bad. But I think I should have quit back when I just had a semi-visible, semi-touched-up scrape. Particularly given the amount of time and effort involved in the further repair.
#27
Me Too
I kept losing a point or two at Concours for some type of mineral deposit that sat in the indented lug area from before I owned the "50".
It got down to drawing a black marker line over the line and doing a finger dab (no rag at this point), then a light micro fiber rag rub to go from glossy to satin and it gets by the judges.
Keep in mind that the defect is in the Lug area. The judges do test that area with their finger/glove, but are less prone to do all lugs if they at least appear undamaged.
Just my 2c.
It got down to drawing a black marker line over the line and doing a finger dab (no rag at this point), then a light micro fiber rag rub to go from glossy to satin and it gets by the judges.
Keep in mind that the defect is in the Lug area. The judges do test that area with their finger/glove, but are less prone to do all lugs if they at least appear undamaged.
Just my 2c.