A few 991 questions - Brakes - buying advice
02-26-2018, 09:39 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
A few 991 questions - Brakes - buying advice
Well, I started out looking at 997.2's, and then folks said I should look at a 991 to compare. I had seen some 2012 991's for similar prices as a 997.2 so over the last week I checked out some 991's. I think I'm pretty close to my purchase but I have a few questions. Here are some questions:
- On a 991, it looks like the 6 piston caliper still has to come off in order to change brake pads. Is that correct?
- I had looked at a 2012 997.2 GTS and the brake pedal was super solid. Very little if any play in the brake pedal. On the 2012 991 that I drove I thought the brake pedal was really spongy. Is that normal? Should the 991 have a spongy brake pedal or be just as tight as the 997.2 GTS?
- Assuming I'm right on the spongy 991 brake pedal, have there been any problems in the brake department that cause this or is this a simple case of needing to change the brake fluid?
- For a 997.2, I would be buying the last year of that model. (potentially less issues) For a 991, I'm buying the first year of the upgraded model. How worried should I be for the first year of the 991? I've tried to research this as much as possible and as usual I see lots of mixed experiences.
- Any watch out issues with a 2012 991 S that I should make sure are checked out?
- I'm looking to buy a 997.2 or a 991...both would need to at least be a S, PASM, sport chrono,...GTS is fine and so is the AWD versions. Which would you recommend I focus on and why?
02-27-2018, 12:27 PM
#2
I recently purchased my first 911, a 991, and am a relative newb, but have spent more time on here than I care to admit. Here's my two cents:
1. Yes, the calipers have to come off, but it's just two bolts holding them on. Here's a dectent DIY: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...placement.html . I have yet to do it, but have changed pads and rotors on a Cayenne. The only difficulty were some of the weird torx bits needed. Would recommend replacing the sensors, they get brittle and you can get them for a few bucks. Also recommend getting the Padgid branded pads instead of Porsche. They manufacture them for Porsche, then they put them in a Porsche box and mark up an additional 200%.
2. Of the 991's I've driven, the pedals shouldn't be spongy. Since the 991's aren't new cars, I would suspect that the lackluster pedal feel was due to different aftermarket or low pads, warped rotors, or old brake fluid.
3. We're on the same page on this assessment.
4. I usually don't buy the first year or two on a new model, but the 991 has been more or less pretty reliable. Some of the main issues are relatively minor (door inserts, and changeover valves) seem to be the biggies. The doors are obvious, but I think by now, anyone who's needed them replaced, have had them done so. As for the COV's if they go, they are a relatively cheap part, and since it sounds like you can change brakes, you can probably change most of those (some are harder to get to), but I wouldn't loose any sleep over them.
1. Yes, the calipers have to come off, but it's just two bolts holding them on. Here's a dectent DIY: https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...placement.html . I have yet to do it, but have changed pads and rotors on a Cayenne. The only difficulty were some of the weird torx bits needed. Would recommend replacing the sensors, they get brittle and you can get them for a few bucks. Also recommend getting the Padgid branded pads instead of Porsche. They manufacture them for Porsche, then they put them in a Porsche box and mark up an additional 200%.
2. Of the 991's I've driven, the pedals shouldn't be spongy. Since the 991's aren't new cars, I would suspect that the lackluster pedal feel was due to different aftermarket or low pads, warped rotors, or old brake fluid.
3. We're on the same page on this assessment.
4. I usually don't buy the first year or two on a new model, but the 991 has been more or less pretty reliable. Some of the main issues are relatively minor (door inserts, and changeover valves) seem to be the biggies. The doors are obvious, but I think by now, anyone who's needed them replaced, have had them done so. As for the COV's if they go, they are a relatively cheap part, and since it sounds like you can change brakes, you can probably change most of those (some are harder to get to), but I wouldn't loose any sleep over them.
02-27-2018, 12:37 PM
#3
Sorry accidentally hit enter:
4. cont. One thing to keep in mind is that the 997 is getting down there to the bottom of the depreciation curve. Not sure if that's a big concern of yours, but the 991 is still on it's way down slowly. For me the updated interior and creature comforts was worth it, but that depends on you. Overall I think reliability wise, they are about the same.
5. Definitely find a reputable shop for a PPI. Although some people say it's not worth the $300 bucks, again, they aren't going to take the car apart and let you know every little thing, but the potential upside is tremendous. I would say more important is an on time, and documented service history. Not so much with P cars, but a lot of higher end cars, people can barely afford the cars, then get sticker shock when services cost for $400-3k if you don't DIY and skimp out. If you do get a 2012, you can use the VIN decoder here on Renlist and if you get lucky you might find a launch vehicle that has the extended warranty.
6. Those big options are the main ones. PSE is good, but can be retrofitted relatively cheaply. Sport Chrono is just about necessary for a PDK, but "optional" for a manual. If you can swing a GTS, that's the way to go (you can get a 4 in a GTS as well). Looks like you're from Indiana, if you're going to daily it, recommend some sort of 4 variant. If it's just a weekend nice weather toy, then a 2 is ok. The GTS has a lot of options, but also maintain their value better than an S.
Happy Hunting!
4. cont. One thing to keep in mind is that the 997 is getting down there to the bottom of the depreciation curve. Not sure if that's a big concern of yours, but the 991 is still on it's way down slowly. For me the updated interior and creature comforts was worth it, but that depends on you. Overall I think reliability wise, they are about the same.
5. Definitely find a reputable shop for a PPI. Although some people say it's not worth the $300 bucks, again, they aren't going to take the car apart and let you know every little thing, but the potential upside is tremendous. I would say more important is an on time, and documented service history. Not so much with P cars, but a lot of higher end cars, people can barely afford the cars, then get sticker shock when services cost for $400-3k if you don't DIY and skimp out. If you do get a 2012, you can use the VIN decoder here on Renlist and if you get lucky you might find a launch vehicle that has the extended warranty.
6. Those big options are the main ones. PSE is good, but can be retrofitted relatively cheaply. Sport Chrono is just about necessary for a PDK, but "optional" for a manual. If you can swing a GTS, that's the way to go (you can get a 4 in a GTS as well). Looks like you're from Indiana, if you're going to daily it, recommend some sort of 4 variant. If it's just a weekend nice weather toy, then a 2 is ok. The GTS has a lot of options, but also maintain their value better than an S.
Happy Hunting!
02-27-2018, 07:41 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the comments. Those are really helpful. I just got done reading a ton on the COV's. Those sound like a real pain so I hope they have all been changed out. Good point on the depreciation. If I do buy a 991 it will be predominately due to it being a better fit for me since I'm a tall person and the interior is a bit roomier.
02-28-2018, 05:23 PM
#5
@zoiks: jungkim1234 is right about getting a high-quality PPI on any car you're considering. Especially for 997.2s and later, you want to have a full DME scan done by a Porsche dealership or independent service. If you need a reference for a PPI inspector anywhere in the US, we can help. Thanks!