ryandarr1979

That’s why I added Elephant Racing’s eccentric solid bushings for $500 and realigned, bringing the front track out beyond OEM. Those pics were my car during the test fit. The front track with the bushings and alignment is wider than stock now, with OEM GT3 wheels.

ryandarr1979

Those pics are my car during test fit of the wheels. Afterward, I added Elephant Racing’s eccentric solid front bushings and realigned, extending the front track slightly more than OEM with GT3 wheels installed. They were $500 plus install and alignment.

eysa

Is that all thats needed to extend the front track and how much would you say it extended it by? I'm really wanting to do this as my HRE's are perfect in the rear but the front is too tucked in for my liking.

BIGWORM

Thank you in advance for use if the photos = )

And that sounds like an easy fix! So just adding those pushed the front wheel out more than 4mm?

if so that’s perfect. I’ll call them ASAP for more info,

Id prefer not to touch my suspension but the rear gt3 wheels will push out a lot on the GTS so I’d like to push the front out at at least OEM.

But that sounds like a simple easy solution,

Thank you very much!

BIGWORM

let’s hope so! I’m so confused on what wheels to buy, Then what offset. Do I even want to keep my car that long regarding expensive wheel purchase? id like to just get these wheels and be done.

ryandarr1979

I did a lot of research before doing anything. Call Elephant Racing. They’ve helped numerous people do the same thing. The Eccentric offset solid bushings will more than extend past the 4mm offset difference between GTS and GT3 front wheels. The 911 GTS comes with eccentric front camber plates OEM. After installing the bushings, have the dealer/mechanic align the car and adjust the camber out at the top of the strut to compensate for the increased camber at the bushing, and bam, you’ve extended your front track. An added bonus to the solid bushings is more direct and improved steering feel. That’s option 1, and the cheaper option. Option 2 is to install either GT3 lower control arms, (which require use of shims) or get Elephant Racing’s Adjustable Lower Control Arms, which don’t use shims. This is the more expensive option, but gives you more adjustment range for front track vs the bushings, if that’s what you want. With the rear wheels, I feel they’re perfect. They poke, but ever so slightly. It looks classy and OEM. If it were 2mm more, I probably wouldn’t like it. I also have SPASM, and RWS, which I’ve been told makes a slight difference VS standard suspension and non-RWS.

eysa

Thank you for that. Can you provide a part number or link to the bushings please. Also did you only do the bushings or did you go with LCA as well?

BIGWORM

Thank you Ryan!

Is the part the first option listed in this screen shot?

Ecosse911

“Is that all that’s needed to extend front track” = YES

Is that all that is needed to correct geometry = NO

Change the track means your caster is likely going to be out and there is no caster adjustment with the stock lower arms.

The adjustable lower arm option comes with a caster adjustment solid puck. The trade off for a street car is that most adjustable lower arms with caster adjustment capability use mono ball ends. Takes slop out but you now have a solid mount.

I just lowered my car with Elephant racing’s coil over sleeve kit. I have HRE R101LW in GT3 type offsets and the next stage is to do the front track. The rear looks so aggressive with the Cup2s so the slightly tucked front let’s down the look.

I am going the route of adjust lower arms so I can get the geometry corrected. Just debating which product.

I am also considering a set of bump steer tie rod ends. Two reasons, first to correct the geometry effect of lowering the car but also as increasing the front track requires the tie rod end to be adjusted out. Not sure if there is a safe amount of thread to allow a 1/2 - 3/4” track increase.

I will post up my setup in a separate thread once it’s complete

ryandarr1979

Lower Control Arm Eccentric Monoballs

Our Eccentric Control Arm Monoball Cartridges replace inner rubber bushings with spherical bearings, providing low friction and precisely holding camber settings. The eccentric design allows increasing or decreasing camber, as needed.



Increasing Camber – Position the eccentric to maximize Lower Wishbone length, adding about .86 degree of negative camber on the 996/997 rear suspension, about .36 degree of negative camber on the Boxster rear suspension, and .39 degrees on the 996/997/Boxster front suspension. Cost effective for cars that just want extra camber. For even more camber and ease of adjustment, see our GT3 type fully adjustable control arms.

Decreasing Camber – Position the eccentric to minimize Lower Wishbone length. Perfect for lowered cars that have too much negative camber and want to get back to factory camber settings to minimize tire wear on the street. Makes rear camber about .86 degrees more positive & front camber about .39 degrees positive for 996/997 while Boxsters will get about .39 degrees positive front and .36 degrees positive rear.

Made from hardened steel, plated and weather-sealed, these bearings are made to last. Fits the front or rear stock and GT3 type control arms.

Application Table

Part No. Stock Equiv. Fitment & Configuration 2260006 - '97-'16 996/997/986/987/981 Front & Rear,
'12+ 991 Front Only

ryandarr1979

I respectfully disagree. Caster is not changed as a result. The alignment diagnostic confirmed that. I added positive camber at the bushing, and added positive camber at the top of the strut, which increases track, but brings actual camber adjustment to 0. Caster is not changed. Yes, suspension geometry is different, but that's because of the wider rear track. The front track ends up slightly wider than OEM, but its not much difference. All the things you mentioned sound great, and I am a fan of Elephant Racing and everything I have heard about their LCAs has been very good. I also went from Michelin Pilot Sport 4S to Pilot Sport Cup 2s, so there is that benefit of increased traction that helps too.

Ecosse911

I am glad the eccentric bushes worked out for you. Maybe the track change in your application was not sufficient to significantly change the caster.

Pasted below is some information from ER website so folks can read for them selves.

The lower control arm is not free to move straight out as it’s has another fixed length arm connection point to the chassis (see pic below). So when the lower control arm is extended it will be pulled forward changing the caster. That is why all the adjustable lower control arms have a provision to correct the caster.

...... From ER website

https://www.elephantracing.com/porsc...lower-wishbone

Caster Adjustment – Our Caster Adjuster allows you to tune this important setting that the factory left out. A must-have for cars that have extended lower control arms to correct for un-intended caster change that is caused by the extended arms. Rotate the center puck and bolt down to secure the setting.

DBH

Great info guys but...

BIGWORM

Anyone with 21" wheels on stock suspension?

Hurricane

From this past September, when the weather was a little warmer.