Centerlock Torque Wrench
#16
You certainly always use a breaker bar and not the torque wrench to loosen the nut. If you use a torque multiplier you do not need a long breaker bar at all. We've actually developed a complete new nut design that interlocks with the wrenches so you can't come loose and scratch the hell out of your car. Anyone wanting to change their Porsche nuts let me know.
Depending on how much you drive your car you should at least check the CL nut and wheels for any wear once a year or so. It's unfortunate that CL has gotten a bad wrap, I actually converted from 5 lug to CL and like to looks.
Depending on how much you drive your car you should at least check the CL nut and wheels for any wear once a year or so. It's unfortunate that CL has gotten a bad wrap, I actually converted from 5 lug to CL and like to looks.
#17
Post a pic. I'm curious as to what your grabby nut looks like. Are all the Porsche CL's interchangeable or are they generation-specific?
I just wish someone would make a conversion for the 991's to go back to 5-bolt. I don't really get why that's not a thing yet. They're available for the 997's right?
CL's are just incredibly stupid on a car designed for the track.
But whatever. It is what it is. My tool collection is growing.
I just wish someone would make a conversion for the 991's to go back to 5-bolt. I don't really get why that's not a thing yet. They're available for the 997's right?
CL's are just incredibly stupid on a car designed for the track.
But whatever. It is what it is. My tool collection is growing.
#19
Mine will likely be 4 or 5 times a year so that's just not practical.
I seem to recall reading that the breaker bar handle from Precision Instruments is quite a bit shorter than the torque handle. I know the torque wrench fully assembled is around 4' long. Isn't the breaker handle closer to 3' or even less?
I saw a YouTube video of some dude struggling to break loose the nuts with one of those. It seems to me that the breaker extension should attach at the point where the torque handle does and use the middle piece buy my impression is that it attaches at the ratchet head and is thus too short.
Finally... I've read that it can be difficult to detach the ratchet head from either piece.
With all that in mind, I ordered mine without the breaker bar extension and will get a 4' 3/4" breaker bar separately. They're not expensive.
I seem to recall reading that the breaker bar handle from Precision Instruments is quite a bit shorter than the torque handle. I know the torque wrench fully assembled is around 4' long. Isn't the breaker handle closer to 3' or even less?
I saw a YouTube video of some dude struggling to break loose the nuts with one of those. It seems to me that the breaker extension should attach at the point where the torque handle does and use the middle piece buy my impression is that it attaches at the ratchet head and is thus too short.
Finally... I've read that it can be difficult to detach the ratchet head from either piece.
With all that in mind, I ordered mine without the breaker bar extension and will get a 4' 3/4" breaker bar separately. They're not expensive.
#22
I bought a Stanley Proto 6212 torque multiplier to use when changing my tires. I may even carry it for roadside emergencies. It's a 1-6 ratio so I only need 74 lb ft on my 1/2" torque wrench to achieve 444 lb ft of torque. I realize it's very expensive but what if? After watching a few videos of people trying to use standard breaker bars and a long torque wrench I made my decision. Oh, I do believe there's always a tool for each job.
#23
I bought my torque wrench and breaker bar set from Tooldiscounter.com and would not do it again. It took forever to get the torque wrench and they screwed me out of the racing jack that was also on the order... I never received that and they went dark on me.
#24
I bought a Stanley Proto 6212 torque multiplier to use when changing my tires. I may even carry it for roadside emergencies. It's a 1-6 ratio so I only need 74 lb ft on my 1/2" torque wrench to achieve 444 lb ft of torque. I realize it's very expensive but what if? After watching a few videos of people trying to use standard breaker bars and a long torque wrench I made my decision. Oh, I do believe there's always a tool for each job.
#25
Their torque multiplier spec sheet states 5% plus most click type torque wrenches add another 4%. So 9% is the worst case.
#26
First I broke my breaker bar, but must have loosened it some as it came off with my back up bar
Tire unrepairable approx $480 installed/balance, new torque wrench approx $380 so about $860 for an afternoon drive #FFS
Thanks for all the info in this thread!
Last edited by Miles968; 05-09-2020 at 06:51 PM.
#27
First ride out in my Porsche for the season and managed to find and run over a nail. Local "Discount Tire" didn't even have a 3/4 inch wrench driver to get the wheel/tire off......
First I broke my breaker bar, but must have loosened it some as it came off with my back up bar
Tire unrepairable approx $480 installed/balance, new torque wrench approx $380 so about $860 for an afternoon drive #FFS
Thanks for all the info in this thread!
First I broke my breaker bar, but must have loosened it some as it came off with my back up bar
Tire unrepairable approx $480 installed/balance, new torque wrench approx $380 so about $860 for an afternoon drive #FFS
Thanks for all the info in this thread!
#28
Craftsman!!! It has a "lifetime Warranty". Called the warranty line and was told that I didn't have my proof of purchase from 15 years ago and they hung up on me!!! I called back 2 more times with the same result! I'm pretty pissed!
#29
Craftsman is sold by Ace, Lowe’s and Summit Racing. Maybe take to Lowe’s and see if they replace.