Steve Cole

I only ever use normal mode when I'm on the highway. The engine lugs with the shift pattern and power delivery in normal and that ain't good for a cold engine anymore than high angle throttle is.

Foosh

That's not a problem if you drive in manual mode, which is what I do in Normal model until the oil temp is up to normal operating temp, keeping rpms between 2000-3500.

RSBro

So from a cold start, you shift manually in Normal to get the oil temps up quicker? Interesting, may have to try that.

Foosh

Yes, exactly. I keep the rpms below 2500 until water temp is up to normal, then below 3500 until oil is up to temp. Once water temp is normal, keep the rpms between 2500-3500, you're never lugging the engine, and oil temp gets to where it needs to be much quicker.

Leaving it Normal longer runs the oil temp to over 210-215ºF, which burns off any condensation that might be in the oil. When running in Sport or Sport+, the oil coolers keep it below 200ºF. Thus, if you run in Sport all the time, you may not be boiling off condensation as efficiently.

RSBro

I just had my car washed Saturday and it's raining the next few days here, but will test this out the next fully dry day. My commute is short (less than 8 miles 1-way) so it's hard to get both Water and Oil temps to their needed degrees to, as you mentioned, burn off condensation. Usually not a problem in the afternoon as I sit longer in traffic, so I'll hit the 210-ish mark quicker and the last 3 or so miles I'll drive home in Sport and push it just to get all the fluids and stuff cycling faster.

Foosh

Yes, driving primarily short trips (under 30 miles) has consequences, including not getting the oil temp hot enough for long enough. The other most common issue is that the battery never has a chance to top off, unless you use a battery maintainer.

RSBro

Re: the battery issue, I try usually at least once a week or bi-weekly to take a 30-60 minute drive to get it charged up. I need to get one of those Optima chargers my track tech has, and use them on all 3 of our cars. I know it makes a big difference for getting max life from your battery.

Foosh

I use the CTEK "smart" maintainers. If I haven't done at least a 30 mile trip in the last in 4-5 days, I hook it up, let it top off, then remove it.

The Porsche-branded battery maintainer is a base version of the CTEK, but you can get one with many more features for $100 or less on Amazon. I do that on all of our 4 cars, plus XUV, plus zero-turn mowers, so I have a bunch of them.

RSBro

It's on my list to do lol. I finally got track wheels and tyres, a wall-mounted rack for them, plus permanent disc/pad upgrades, IC/exhaust upgrade, so a lot of non-repair costs this year for sure. Oh and I need to get my Fidelity warranty by October/November as well.

RSBro

Do you know which model you have/use on your Turbo? These look to be about similar:


https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-56-959-Silver-Automatic-Charger/dp/B00GODGN9E?ref_=ast_sto_dp

https://www.amazon.com/CTEK-40-206-5-0-12-Battery-Charger/dp/B00CD44RQO?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1&psc=1

Foosh

Yes, those are the same model, and I have two of the 4.3. I also have 2 of the model below. I use them interchangeably on all of our 4 cars, and they seem to work equally well in terms of top-off times. Both are more useful than the base model Porsche sells because they have settings for smaller batteries like in motorcycles and mowers, as well as battery desulfation programs.

The one below is under $100.

RSBro

Thanks!

My tech recommended Schumacher as well, he has a few of them when the badass Optima is elsewhere:

Foosh

The Optima and Schumacher are a bad-*** battery chargers, when you need to jump start a completely dead battery or put it on a charger when reflashing to keep batteries from draining before the procedure is complete. CTEKs are simply maintainers designed to keep healthy batteries healthy. The low-amperage maintainers are a safer way of doing that.

It's good to have both available.

RSBro

That makes sense. He'd throw on the Optima/Schumacher when doing an alignment which takes hours so the battery doesn't get fully drained.
I have my settings saved in his alignment machine when I run my street vs. track tyre setups, so it gets calibrated a few times a year. I'll grab that CTEK for now!

B Russ

Interesting you guys use the word lugging, This is something I notice much more on this car compared to my 4s. Does a tune reduce this??