Just got my AntiLaser Priority and k40 360 radar systems migrated over to the TTS.

Worked with my installer (Eric Jones of https://m.facebook.com/CarInstallationsCT/)to come up with a super clean/stealth install that I think came out great.

Highly recommend the system and installer (he’s done a few installs including front/rear cameras for me, and he is the primary resource for my local dealer).


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Fabricated the piece to take place of the cigarette adapter and wrapped it in Alacantra.
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LEDs hidden in vents for front/rear radar
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LEDs hidden in vents for front/rear radar

Thanks.

Once you’ve driven around a bit and you have automatically marked the false alerts, the system is pretty quiet. So I end up leaving the controls covered most of the time. YMMV

With the ALP system, I have it set to jam for 3 seconds and then it resets itself (so the LEO can get a reading). I’ve also made adjustments for it to vary it’s jamming based on speed— all very adjustable with the Bluetooth module and the iOS app.

I also have an extra iPhone that connects to my car’s WiFi and runs Waze over CarPlay. (Don’t ask why I’ve gone so overboard).

This triple setup with being vigilant/smart and using rabbits whenever possible ;)

With the k40, once you’ve driven around a bit, it learns the false alarms and is generally pretty quiet. YMMV.

With the ALP, I have it set to only jam for 3 seconds if above a certain speed (as you may know, this allows for the LEO to get a reading once you’ve had the chance to slow down).

With this setup, I rarely need to touch the controls which is pretty awesome.

Lastly, I also have an extra iPhone that I’ve dedicated to use for its waze over CarPlay functionality (using the car’s built in WiFi). *dont ask why I’ve gone to all this trouble ;)

The downside to having the extra phone in the car is that your phone is not connected for voice calls, but I seemed to have found a reasonable workaround: I sign on to both phones with the same iCloud account and then allow them to share calls over WiFi. This allows me to receive calls and texts on my CarPlay phone. Let me know if I can help further.

I don’t have much of an issue with using the controls because I usually don’t really need to access them.

For the k40, once you’ve driven around a while, the system will either autofilter false alarms or you can mark them. From then on, it’s pretty quiet. YMMV.

For the ALP, I have it set to jam for 3 seconds only. This way the LEO can get a speed reading after you’ve had time to slow down. I also don’t have it set to jam below 25mph. You can configure the system in multiple ways — and I find using the iOS app the easiest way to do this.

Lastly, I have an extra iPhone that I have dedicated for waze over CarPlay use in the car using the built in WiFi hotspot.

Not sure why my posts keep getting deleted. I will try again..

I find that the setup is generally pretty quiet once you’ve set it up, therefore hiding it behind the door is a non-issue for me. YMMV.

For the k40, once you’ve driven around enough to learn/mark false alarms, it mostly doesn’t go off.

For the ALP, I have it setup to automatically turn itself off after 3 seconds. Also, I have it in detection mode only at speeds under 25mph. All very easily configurable with either the control pad or the iOS app. I find the app useful for setting up the configurations and upgrading the firmware, otherwise I don’t use it.

Lastly, I dedicated an old phone to waze over car play. I use the built in WiFi hotspot for data. And by signing into my car play phone and normal phone using the same ID, I am able to get phone calls over the car’s Bluetooth.

The downside to using a dedicated CarPlay phone is that you have to use that phone for phone calls. And since it doesn’t use your same phone number, you need to sign in to both phones with the same applies and enable “Calls on other Devices” to receive phone calls.

It it works reasonably well. **dont ask why I’be gone to such lengths.

ha!

around here the laser protection is the most critical component. There is some ka band usage, but it’s always laser when they’ looking to pull people over. Wasn’t really much extra work to install the radar since the wires run basically the same path through the car.

With regards to the power, fortunately mine is wired to come on / go off with the ignition.