Camber question
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Camber question
Took my car to a local race shop for corner balance and track alignment. They measured the camber and told me it was already set up well, especially for Sebring with more negative camber on the front left. They made no changes.
Front camber: left -3.0/ right -2.8
Rear camber: left -2.7/ right -2.7
This seems fine but I have been under the car and there are no shims in the front control arms. Is this front camber measurement even possible without shims? I've read the threads about geo set up and thought the car wouldn't go beyond -2.
Thinking about taking the car to another shop for a second opinion.
Front camber: left -3.0/ right -2.8
Rear camber: left -2.7/ right -2.7
This seems fine but I have been under the car and there are no shims in the front control arms. Is this front camber measurement even possible without shims? I've read the threads about geo set up and thought the car wouldn't go beyond -2.
Thinking about taking the car to another shop for a second opinion.
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
No I am the second owner and was told the prior owner did not track the car, so I assumed it had a stock setup. I am happy that it is already where I wanted it, if I can believe the readings.
#6
Took my car to a local race shop for corner balance and track alignment. They measured the camber and told me it was already set up well, especially for Sebring with more negative camber on the front left. They made no changes.
Front camber: left -3.0/ right -2.8
Rear camber: left -2.7/ right -2.7
This seems fine but I have been under the car and there are no shims in the front control arms. Is this front camber measurement even possible without shims? I've read the threads about geo set up and thought the car wouldn't go beyond -2.
Thinking about taking the car to another shop for a second opinion.
Front camber: left -3.0/ right -2.8
Rear camber: left -2.7/ right -2.7
This seems fine but I have been under the car and there are no shims in the front control arms. Is this front camber measurement even possible without shims? I've read the threads about geo set up and thought the car wouldn't go beyond -2.
Thinking about taking the car to another shop for a second opinion.
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the confirmation guys! Looks like those are the numbers I want but a figment of someone's imagination on my car at the moment. So I am headed to another shop for a set up.
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#9
Rennlist Member
My car stock with no shims maxed out on one side at -2.2 so that is where both were set. -1.8 rear both sides.
#10
Rennlist Member
OP you'd want to check and see if the strut tops have already been rotated. I don't know the 991s but back in the 997s a high-2 camber is possible just by rotating the tops.
#11
Race Director
BTW, I'd like to correct my earlier post. I checked my paperwork and the max negative camber I got at the front was -2.2; not -2.5. Memory glitch....
#12
Did you manage that without alterations to the wheel housing at the back?
I just booked a track geo for my RS with the Black Falcon race team in Nürburg. They have a couple of road GT3's and one RS. I was told that they could not achieve ideal camber, which they reckon is 3, on the rear due to the 21 inch wheels. They have been testing at Ascari and Portimao over the winter and were able to get much more performance and tyre durability from the std GT3 because the car allows more camber at the back. They are now looking into how to address this, but expect it cannot be achieved without altering the wheel housing.
I just booked a track geo for my RS with the Black Falcon race team in Nürburg. They have a couple of road GT3's and one RS. I was told that they could not achieve ideal camber, which they reckon is 3, on the rear due to the 21 inch wheels. They have been testing at Ascari and Portimao over the winter and were able to get much more performance and tyre durability from the std GT3 because the car allows more camber at the back. They are now looking into how to address this, but expect it cannot be achieved without altering the wheel housing.
#13
Rennlist Member
No modifications?
-2.7 rear is fine for Dunlops, -3 would maybe needed for Michelins due to only the outside of the MPSC2 wearing.
A big help is running the car stiff PASM and IMHO the rear sway bar should be full stiff for max tire wear and a more stable car at hight speed cornering.
Porsche did install new front fender liners, now no rubbing with -3 front.
-2.7 rear is fine for Dunlops, -3 would maybe needed for Michelins due to only the outside of the MPSC2 wearing.
A big help is running the car stiff PASM and IMHO the rear sway bar should be full stiff for max tire wear and a more stable car at hight speed cornering.
Porsche did install new front fender liners, now no rubbing with -3 front.
#14
No modifications?
-2.7 rear is fine for Dunlops, -3 would maybe needed for Michelins due to only the outside of the MPSC2 wearing.
A big help is running the car stiff PASM and IMHO the rear sway bar should be full stiff for max tire wear and a more stable car at hight speed cornering.
Porsche did install new front fender liners, now no rubbing with -3 front.
-2.7 rear is fine for Dunlops, -3 would maybe needed for Michelins due to only the outside of the MPSC2 wearing.
A big help is running the car stiff PASM and IMHO the rear sway bar should be full stiff for max tire wear and a more stable car at hight speed cornering.
Porsche did install new front fender liners, now no rubbing with -3 front.