est8esq

I've been breaking in my Viper (Viper ACR Extreme Aero First Impressions) and sharing, but felt this needed separate thread.

I've changed the oil at 530 miles (something I've never done on any other car) and found metal shavings in the oil and filter.

Poking around the Viper forums, I guess it's not unusual for the Viper? I've NEVER heard of this as a problem on other cars, specifically the GT3? Matter of fact, my break-in was on track.

Our RS (will be wife's car) and last update from dealer shows January 9th delivery. Just in time for PBOC Winterfest again at Sebring. My intentions were to drive it how it's going to be driven? No break-in, per se. My '14 GT3 obviously had the whole engine debacle, but even the new engine wasn't babied.

So, I'm curious what everyone here feels? I felt the 991 GT3 was the BEST driver's car I've ever owned, this RS will be my first car I'll plan on keeping. Has anyone experienced metal in oil changes before??

Also, I never heard of this, but makes sense. There's apparently a magnet for the oil filter that can catch metal particles even the filter can't?

Thoughts?

LexVan

Start doing used oil analysis with Blackstone.

Get a magnetic drain plug from L&N Engineering. Take note of the low torque requirements. 19 ft.lbs.

Were the metal flakes ferrous? This is not completely uncommon.

As for break in, go read, and follow Mr A. P.'s advice.

KINGSRULE

Which AP break-in advice are you talking about?

His first which was warm the car up and drive it any way you want or:
His second which was go by the USA owners manual?

AP obviously got call on the carpet by upper management and was told to tow the company line..on many things he had previously stated his opinion on.......

85Gold

My break in regimen. Pick up car and go to an Autox and get as many runs as I can. Varied RPM with no long periods of high RPM and 2nd gear keeps the time at WOT at a minimum.

Peter

Keith Verges - Dallas

Got my cool Viper Concierge email with link to my car's panels in the Prefix paint shop today. I need to see about those wheels.

Mike in CA

The whole break-in thing has been beaten to death; not even going to comment on what I think the proper procedure should be. But AFAIK, AP never said to drive it any way you want, nor did he say to go to the other extreme and follow the US manual recommendation.

I posted info back in late 2013 from my friend who was on the GT3 development team and got AP's break-in advice from the man himself. Always warm the car properly, keep the revs under 7K for the first 400 miles, gradually build revs after that, engine should be broken in by 800 miles. This info is consistent with what was posted more recently by someone who, IIRC, had spoken with AP directly about breaking in his RS. Maybe someone else can locate that reference.

Ur20v

Ask this question on the vett forums- the new C7 has been blowing engines due to metal filings from machining- they now need to do a run in oil change before track use or power runs as thats when the oil filter by-pass opens and sucks the accumualted crap back through the engine... Ka....BOOM!

hfm

https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...l#post12625613

The New 911

Wouldn't the shaving's have to be ferrous to stick to the magnetic oil plug? Srry just being fool hearty. What would exactly be non-ferrous in Dodges' big V10? Would figure that the cylinder sleeves and piston's have some make up of ferrous and non-ferrous elements. Couldn't imagine that the entire block and heads are all Iron. That would make for an especially heavy front-end.

The Engines are still 8.4 liters in displacement right?

allans

My 600 mile change was clean. Ran it thru some filtering fabric to make sure. There is a LOT about this topic on the VOA forum. Jury is out.

alpine-al

As far as I know, L&N doesn't sell a magnetic drain plug for the 991 GT3 yet. Has anyone bought one?

Thanks


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