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I would use flat spring steel about ten thousandths thick at the top. Taller towards the front of the caliper, lower towards the inside to deflect toward the inner barrel.
How is the brake duct designed on the 991? Is it possible to debri is coming through the duct through the center of the rotor, through the veins? Or is air forced directly on the rotor?
Either way you could also explore screening the inlet duct.
Air is forced onto the rotor and the rotor hat. Not sure that is where the stones are coming from as I don't have duct work on my S6.
I would use flat spring steel about ten thousandths thick at the top. Taller towards the front of the caliper, lower towards the inside to deflect toward the inner barrel.
How is the brake duct designed on the 991? Is it possible to debri is coming through the duct through the center of the rotor, through the veins? Or is air forced directly on the rotor?
Either way you could also explore screening the inlet duct.
Believe debris introduced from slow speed (30 mph) during regular pickup / spin / rattle / drop from the sticky tires. Had a look at cooling vents and don't believe they are major contributor although they could be screened as suggested.
I was considering a blade tapered / raked upwards that would channel towards inner barrel and also shed if any debris enterring from above (unlikely but possible when driving in reverse).
Would you mind elaborating re your thoughts. Why is the spring "ten thousandths at the top" and is it uniform ? And, what do you mean by "Taller towards the front of the caliper, lower towards the inside" ? A sketch would be great.
Some communication with Racing Brake suggests that the closed top design of the caliper coupled with the shaped horizontal groove may be a contributor to the problem. An open top caliper might solve the problem but I am waiting to see if this is available an if it is strong enough for the GT3.
Racing brake advises that they just introduced an open top caliper for PCCB with better clearance. Hoping to see a detailed drawing showing actual clearances from inner wheel barrel.
Resurrecting this thread.
I now have very deep grooves, my tire shop and Porsche dealer said the same thing, its not safe and should replace the wheel with a new one.!!!
Has anyone found a solution for this, any photos that you can share?
Resurrecting this thread.
I now have very deep grooves, my tire shop and Porsche dealer said the same thing, its not safe and should replace the wheel with a new one.!!!
Has anyone found a solution for this, any photos that you can share?
Just had a 2nd opinion by a highly regarded wheel repairer that my dealer sent the wheel to, wheel is still in good shape, they said the rim is quite thick and a non issue. Having it properly repainted, they said it will look brand new.
But I still would like to find a solution to fix this from happening again.
Just had a 2nd opinion by a highly regarded wheel repairer that my dealer sent the wheel to, wheel is still in good shape, they said the rim is quite thick and a non issue. Having it properly repainted, they said it will look brand new.
But I still would like to find a solution to fix this from happening again.
I'll just add that I saw someone at the track that had a similar issue (but it was a 19" wheel on a PCCB car, scoring looked similar) and the wheel developed enough of a puncture that the tire went flat on track... He said the scoring had slowly been increasing with subsequent days.
Have same issue w my GT4 with PCCB’s. Had both my front wheel barrels refinished to like new condition. That was within first week of driving it. I called with a “change-of-heart” about the wheel and tire package offered on delivery ��.
Afterwards, between the grinding/sanding needed for paint work or me driving between pebbles on the road (I really do, now it’s second nature��), I’ve not had any such recurrance! Mine were not as deep as the recently posted ones, but I did have the dealer take note that I’d be interested in getting my wheels replaced if I had to keep grinding them down.
Replacing OE calipers to RB calipers with a design & construction that would not pick up a stone & "migrate" to score the wheels like OE caliper would due to its closed top and taper (top body)
Calipers are made with forged aluminum alloy, precisely machined and assembled with the same components - SS piston, Oil seal & dust seal that Porsche tracking community put its trust in rebuilding their OE calipers.
Easy pad change - No need to remove calipers
Standard FMSI brake pads (Corvette ZR1 or Mustang GT500) - Easy to source at lower cost (RB sintered pads available)
100% compatible to OE components - Can keep your OE rotors
Direct bolt on installation - Very easy to install
11-09-2015, 10:10 PM
