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Why aren't there more G6 991.1 GT3 for sale

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Old Mar 15, 2026 | 11:13 AM
  #211  
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Originally Posted by Paseb
Are 2018 gt3 engine prone to failure like 2015 gt3 ?
Revised .2 Engines that do not seem to fail from this specific issue.
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Old Mar 15, 2026 | 11:18 AM
  #212  
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Originally Posted by Paseb
Are 2018 gt3 engine prone to failure like 2015 gt3 ?
No, because PAG completely re-architected the valves from hydraulic to solid lifters.
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Old Mar 15, 2026 | 12:47 PM
  #213  
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The lifters are solid in the .1 engines to. Its the finger followers that are solid mounted vs. dynamically mounted. The design isnt that different... but this one detail reduces the friction/load on the vulnarable parts so the issue is fixed.
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Old Mar 15, 2026 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Indyxc
They carried Mobil 1 C40 GT for like a month, bu it wa $46/ quart.

I buy my Driven Di40 from FCP, and run it in my GT3 RS and F80. Good stuff.

If under warranty run C40 GT for sure, or Mobil 1 5w50 fs x2.
@Indyxc
I followed your thread on Bob it the oil guy and am wondering why you decided to choose Di-40 instead of 300V? I think we have similar use case scenarios (spirited weekend driving with annual mileage in the 3-4k range). 300V seems to be the favorite on BITOG and Dundon appears to think it offers the best lubrication with the biggest downside being a short use cycle and increased cost because of the lack of detergents so it will require more frequent oil changes. Di-40 seems to have more support here on RL though. I'd tend to agree that oil isn't going to be the magic elixir for a potential design flaw. However, choosing the best oil optimized for our engines won't hurt. I intend to purchase the oil/filter from FCP euro so cost is less of a concern and anticipate doing oil changes every 4-6 months. Although I'm leaning towards Di-40, I'm reconsidering 300V since the only downside is the need for frequent oil changes and it appears to have a lot of history supporting it's use in high revving engines such as the MA175/176 and motorcycle engines (which I understand has a similar design architecture).

To put it simply, if the only downside of using 300 V is shorter interval changes and the cost associated with that, Ithink I prefer Motul over driven DI 40 since it has such an extensive track record. Maybe I’m missing something?

Your thoughts are appreciated!

Last edited by dk10438; Mar 15, 2026 at 02:01 PM.
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Old Mar 15, 2026 | 04:41 PM
  #215  
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Originally Posted by dk10438
@Indyxc
I followed your thread on Bob it the oil guy and am wondering why you decided to choose Di-40 instead of 300V? I think we have similar use case scenarios (spirited weekend driving with annual mileage in the 3-4k range). 300V seems to be the favorite on BITOG and Dundon appears to think it offers the best lubrication with the biggest downside being a short use cycle and increased cost because of the lack of detergents so it will require more frequent oil changes. Di-40 seems to have more support here on RL though. I'd tend to agree that oil isn't going to be the magic elixir for a potential design flaw. However, choosing the best oil optimized for our engines won't hurt. I intend to purchase the oil/filter from FCP euro so cost is less of a concern and anticipate doing oil changes every 4-6 months. Although I'm leaning towards Di-40, I'm reconsidering 300V since the only downside is the need for frequent oil changes and it appears to have a lot of history supporting it's use in high revving engines such as the MA175/176 and motorcycle engines (which I understand has a similar design architecture).

To put it simply, if the only downside of using 300 V is shorter interval changes and the cost associated with that, Ithink I prefer Motul over driven DI 40 since it has such an extensive track record. Maybe I’m missing something?

Your thoughts are appreciated!
I was debating between the 2 as you read. I think in the end I decided to go with DI40, as I read a few people reported low oil pressure warnings at idle with 300v. For example here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...-hot-idle.html
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Old Mar 15, 2026 | 06:43 PM
  #216  
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Originally Posted by Indyxc
I was debating between the 2 as you read. I think in the end I decided to go with DI40, as I read a few people reported low oil pressure warnings at idle with 300v. For example here:

https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...-hot-idle.html
hmm
interesting. Maybe that illustrates why using an oil designed for motorsports is less than ideal for street use since it's designed for prolonged high heat and rpms and not idling? The owner of the car who started that thread seems to have had other issues unrelated to the motor oil but a few other posters seemed to indicate that lowered observed oil pressure at idle was normal. It doesn't seem to make much sense to me though...
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Old Mar 15, 2026 | 07:51 PM
  #217  
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Originally Posted by dk10438
hmm
interesting. Maybe that illustrates why using an oil designed for motorsports is less than ideal for street use since it's designed for prolonged high heat and rpms and not idling? The owner of the car who started that thread seems to have had other issues unrelated to the motor oil but a few other posters seemed to indicate that lowered observed oil pressure at idle was normal. It doesn't seem to make much sense to me though...
Yeah, it didn't make sense to me either. Motul 300V is an ester based oil so very shear stable, but multiple people said the same thing there and another thread. That coupled with the fact that DI40 is very well respected here, and Lake Speed Jr (Form speed diagnostics), said he sees the lowest wear in samples on the M175/176 made me decide to go with DI40.

I was looking foward to 300V because it comes in 2 liters, so half the refills going back into bottles.

Alas, I just traded my 3RS for a 992.1 GT3 manual under CPO warranty. Wish I could run DI40, but for now I am switching to C40GT due to warranty. $50 dollars a quarter, but I will do oil "exchanges" every 6-12 months, so the ROI will 2 years (Less because I also will use the same oil on other cars).

I will eventually switch to DI40 when my 992 is out of warranty in (2030 lol).

Last edited by Indyxc; Mar 15, 2026 at 07:53 PM.
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 06:08 PM
  #218  
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Originally Posted by Cay_PI
The lifters are solid in the .1 engines to. It’s the finger followers that are solid mounted vs. dynamically mounted. The design isnt that different... but this one detail reduces the friction/load on the vulnarable parts so the issue is fixed.
Fairly certain the .1 is hydraulic lifter. Not that this is the root cause though. If you have evidence to the contrary, I’d love to see.
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 06:39 PM
  #219  
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Originally Posted by Indyxc
Yeah, it didn't make sense to me either. Motul 300V is an ester based oil so very shear stable, but multiple people said the same thing there and another thread. That coupled with the fact that DI40 is very well respected here, and Lake Speed Jr (Form speed diagnostics), said he sees the lowest wear in samples on the M175/176 made me decide to go with DI40.

I was looking foward to 300V because it comes in 2 liters, so half the refills going back into bottles.

Alas, I just traded my 3RS for a 992.1 GT3 manual under CPO warranty. Wish I could run DI40, but for now I am switching to C40GT due to warranty. $50 dollars a quarter, but I will do oil "exchanges" every 6-12 months, so the ROI will 2 years (Less because I also will use the same oil on other cars).

I will eventually switch to DI40 when my 992 is out of warranty in (2030 lol).
Congrats on the new car!

If I had to speculate on 300V having lowered idling pressures, I'd guess that it's because the oil is starting to lose viscosity/degrade after repeated thermal cycles and/or fuel dilution. After all, the oil wasn't really designed for daily driving. So although it is an extremely capable oil for motorsports, the demands are a bit different for a daily driver so I think Di-40 might be a better option for my intended use. Just placed my order today and I'm curious if my idling pressures will change....
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Old Mar 16, 2026 | 08:53 PM
  #220  
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Originally Posted by Cay_PI
The lifters are solid in the .1 engines to. Its the finger followers that are solid mounted vs. dynamically mounted. The design isnt that different... but this one detail reduces the friction/load on the vulnarable parts so the issue is fixed.
Which...is possibly the secondary/primary cause for the lash caps coming out. Solid lifters require valve lash adjustment...and nobody is getting that done. Ferrari style maintenance.
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Old Mar 27, 2026 | 09:28 AM
  #221  
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Originally Posted by BryanCO
Recall? Mid cycle revised engine? I assume you mean the 2014 MY stop sale for the rod bolt issue. Those cars would have an E (2014) engine. This really has nothing to do with the FF issue and what gen of engine is in any specific 991.1.
yes. Recall. 2014 engine recall. Regardless of the reason, many 1st gen 991.1 motors were recalled and replaced, then more/later E, F, and G series motors (revisions on the original E) were installed as recall/warranty replacements (FF ISSUE) or original motors on later production 991.1’s.

by the time the G6 motor came out, the 991.1 gt3 was no longer being produced. So no brand new 991.1 ever came with a G6 motor, and only the most recent engine replacements have the G6, hence why there are far less of them.
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Old Mar 27, 2026 | 01:57 PM
  #222  
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Originally Posted by eolsen
yes. Recall. 2014 engine recall. Regardless of the reason, many 1st gen 991.1 motors were recalled and replaced, then more/later E, F, and G series motors (revisions on the original E) were installed as recall/warranty replacements (FF ISSUE) or original motors on later production 991.1’s.

by the time the G6 motor came out, the 991.1 gt3 was no longer being produced. So no brand new 991.1 ever came with a G6 motor, and only the most recent engine replacements have the G6, hence why there are far less of them.
Yes, well aware of the history. You are mixing information. There are many threads worth reading - especially if you are a 991.1 owner.
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